MedWorm.com provides a medical RSS filtering service. Over 6000 RSS medical sources are combined and output via different filters. This feed contains the latest items from the 'International Journal of Cosmetic Science' source. Wed, 08 Feb 2012 13:12:31 +0100 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5647926&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2012.00708.x SynopsisThe present study involves the evaluation of the effect of certain stabilizers, i.e. citric acid (CT), tartaric acid (TA) and boric acid (BA) on the degradation of ascorbic acid (AH2) in oil‐in‐water cream formulations exposed to the UV light and stored in the dark. The apparent first‐order rate constants (0.34–0.95×10−3 min−1 in light, 0.38–1.24×10−2 day−1 in dark) for the degradation reactions in the presence of the stabilizers have been determined. These rate constants have been used to derive the second‐order rate constants (0.26–1.45×10−2 M−1 min−1 in light, 3.75–8.50×10−3 M−1 day−1) for the interaction of AH2 and the individual stabilizers. These stabilizers are effective in causing the inhibition of the rate of degradation of AH2 both ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5647926 Thu, 02 Feb 2012 05:00:00 +0100 5647926 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5647925&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2012.00709.x We examined several sources of skin including in vivo human and ex vivo pig, sheep, goat, and cow skin. We also analyzed various types of mature hair characterized by degree of melanin content. These analyses provided us with a fundamental understanding of the effects of melanin distribution in hair fibers and aided with the identification of fluorophores present in hair.© 2012 The Authors ICS © 2012 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5647925 Wed, 01 Feb 2012 05:00:00 +0100 5647925 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5620178&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2012.00707.x SynopsisIt has been established after conducting an X‐ray diffraction study of the structure of hair treated with the thioglycolic acid solution that the preferable location of thioglycolic acid molecules should be the intrafibrillar unordered areas. Based on this fact it has been concluded that the redistribution of disulfide bonds of hair occurs mainly in the mentioned above areas when treated with thioglycolic acid solution.© 2012 The Authors ICS © 2012 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5620178 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 17:34:47 +0100 5620178 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5647927&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2012.00702.x SynopsisGels made with three different polymers widely used as rheology modifiers in cosmetic formulations (cross‐linked poly(acrylic acid), cross‐linked poly(maleic acid‐alt‐methyl vinyl ether) copolymer and cross‐linked poly(acrylic acid‐co‐vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer) were characterized by rheological and sensory evaluation methods to determine the relationship between sensorial perception and corresponding rheological parameters. Both conventional rheological characterization methods and a more recent method, Fourier Transform Rheology with Large Amplitude Oscillatory Flow data (LAOS), were utilized to characterize the material with and without wall slip. Sensorial analyses were implemented in vivo to evaluate the perceived ease of initial and rub‐out spreadability, cu... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5647927 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 05:00:00 +0100 5647927 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5620180&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2012.00702.x AbstractGels made with three different polymers widely used as rheology modifiers in cosmetic formulations (crosslinked poly(acrylic acid), crosslinked poly(maleic acid‐alt‐methyl vinyl ether) copolymer, and crosslinked poly(acrylic acid‐co‐vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer) were characterized by rheological and sensory evaluation methods to determine the relationship between sensorial perception and corresponding rheological parameters. Both conventional rheological characterization methods and a more recent method, Fourier Transform Rheology with Large Amplitude Oscillatory Flow data (LAOS), were utilized to characterize the material with and without wall slip. Sensorial analyses were implemented in‐vivo to evaluate the perceived ease of initial and rub‐out spreadability, cushion,... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5620180 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 05:00:00 +0100 5620180 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5620179&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2012.00706.x This study reports for the first time the novel antilipase activity of chebulagic acid (IC50: 60 μM) with MIC value of 12.5 μg mL−1 against P. acnes.The inhibitory potential of plant extracts was further confirmed by plate assay. The organism was grown in the presence of subinhibitory concentrations of extracts from P. kurroa, V. negundo, T. chebula, E. ribes and antibiotics such as clindamycin and tetracycline. Extract from T. chebula showed significant inhibition of lipase activity and number of P. acnes.© 2012 The Authors ICS © 2012 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5620179 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 05:00:00 +0100 5620179 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5597805&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2012.00701.x SynopsisA UV‐spectrophotometric method for the analysis of makeup remover was developed and validated according to ICH guidelines. Three makeup removers for which the main ingredients consisted of vegetable oil (A), mineral oil and silicone (B) and mineral oil and water (C) were sampled in this study. Ethanol was the optimal solvent because it did not interfere with the maximum absorbance of the liquid foundation at 250 nm. The linearity was determined over a range of makeup concentrations from 0.540 to 1.412 mg mL−1 (R2 = 0.9977). The accuracy of this method was determined by analysing low, intermediate and high concentrations of the liquid foundation and gave 78.59–91.57% recoveries with a relative standard deviation of <2% (0.56–1.45%). This result demonstrates the ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5597805 Sat, 14 Jan 2012 05:00:00 +0100 5597805 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5581930&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2012.00705.x In this study collagen types were characterized using 5‐dimensional multiphoton laser scanning microscopy (5D‐IVT) that can be applied in vivo. Second harmonic generation (SHG) signals and fluorescence lifetimes of the collagen autofluorescence were analysed. Collagen type I generates a higher SHG intensity and a longer fluorescence lifetime compared to collagen type III. Thus, the SHG intensity decrease found in photodamaged skin might be explained by the increase in collagen type III. Calculating the in vivo relevant increase of collagen type III gives a negligible difference in fluorescence lifetime not qualifying this method for the determination of collagen type changes in dermal photodamage in vivo in human skin. However, for pathologies that exhibit higher differences in collage... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5581930 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 22:23:04 +0100 5581930 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5638552&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2012.00705.x In this study collagen types were characterized using 5‐dimensional multiphoton laser scanning microscopy (5D‐IVT) that can be applied in vivo. Second harmonic generation (SHG) signals and fluorescence lifetimes of the collagen autofluorescence were analysed. Collagen type I generates a higher SHG intensity and a longer fluorescence lifetime compared to collagen type III. Thus, the SHG intensity decrease found in photodamaged skin might be explained by the increase in collagen type III. Calculating the in vivo relevant increase of collagen type III gives a negligible difference in fluorescence lifetime not qualifying this method for the determination of collagen type changes in dermal photodamage in vivo in human skin. However, for pathologies that exhibit higher differences in collage... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5638552 Wed, 11 Jan 2012 05:00:00 +0100 5638552 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5572237&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2012.00704.x This study demonstrates that transformed HEK293‐TYR cells could expedite the discovery of human TYR‐specific inhibitors from natural sources which might be useful in the control of skin pigmentation.© 2012 The Authors ICS © 2012 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5572237 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 17:24:05 +0100 5572237 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5560237&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00700.x (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5560237 Thu, 05 Jan 2012 13:25:31 +0100 5560237 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5560236&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2012.00703.x AbstractThis work describes the development, validation and application of a simple and fast HPLC‐DAD method for the determination of eight sunscreen agents: benzophenone‐3, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate (used in two isomeric forms), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, 4‐methylbenzylidene camphor and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA in sunscreen formulations. The separation of the eight sunscreen compounds was achieved using an ACE C18 column (250 mm x 4.6 mm, 5 μm), with a column temperature 20 °C, and a mobile phase of 88:12 (v/v) methanol‐water with isocratic elution. Column temperature strongly influences the retention time and resolution of the compounds. The flow rate was 1.0 mL min−1 and quantitation was performed by external calibration ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5560236 Thu, 05 Jan 2012 13:25:09 +0100 5560236 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5515428&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00699.x SynopsisRegenerative properties of skin decrease with age, and thus, the search for substances that minimize cutaneous ageing has increased in the last few years. The secretion of the mollusc Cryptomphalus Aspersa (SCA) is a natural product that bears regenerative properties when applied topically. The purpose of this work is to study the in vitro effects of SCA on cell proliferation and migration, as well as on cell–cell (E‐cadherin and β‐catenin) and cell–substrate (vinculin and β1‐integrin) adhesion proteins expression, using a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells) and primary dermal fibroblasts (HF). We tested the effects of SCA on cell proliferation using a colorimetric assay. In addition, SCA‐induced changes on cell migration were studied by wound‐healing assays.... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5515428 Thu, 15 Dec 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5515428 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5504968&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00700.x (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5504968 Tue, 13 Dec 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5504968 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5552396&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00701.x SynopsisA UV‐spectrophotometric method for the analysis of makeup remover was developed and validated according to ICH guidelines. Three makeup removers for which the main ingredients consisted of vegetable oil (A), mineral oil and silicone (B) and mineral oil and water (C) were sampled in this study. Ethanol was the optimal solvent because it did not interfere with the maximum absorbance of the liquid foundation at 250 nm. The linearity was determined over a range of makeup concentrations from 0.540 – 1.412 mg/ml (R2 = 0.9977). The accuracy of this method was determined by analysing low, intermediate and high concentrations of the liquid foundation and gave 78.59 – 91.57% recoveries with a relative standard deviation of less than 2% (0.56 – 1.45%). This result demonstrates the val... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5552396 Thu, 01 Dec 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5552396 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5504967&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00699.x Conclusions:  These results shed light on the molecular mechanisms underlying the regenerative properties of SCA, based on its promoting effect on skin cell migration, proliferation and survival. Moreover, these results support its future clinical use in the regeneration of wounded tissues.© 2011 The Authors ICS © 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5504967 Thu, 01 Dec 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5504967 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5457837&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00698.x SynopsisPreservatives are used in cosmetics to prevent microbial contamination; however, some preservatives are not free of allergenic and cytotoxic potential. Allergenicity and cytoxicity potentialvaluesare major aspects of preservative safety, which determine limitations and maximum concentration dose in a cosmetic product. The purpose of this study was to investigate and compare the in vitro apoptosis, necrosis and genotoxicity‐inducing potential of five different types of preservatives: Phenoxyethanol (PE), Propylparaben (PP), Methylparaben (MP), Benzyl Alcohol (BA), and Ethylhexyl Glycerine (EG). In vitro experiments were carried out on human dermal fibroblasts by a quantitative flow cytometry method, using specific cell markers (Annexin V, Propidium Iodide and H2A.X). We compared t... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5457837 Thu, 01 Dec 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5457837 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5422226&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00697.x In this study, high temperature liquid chromatographic (HTLC) and subcritical water chromatographic (SBWC) separations of sunscreens contained in skincare creams were achieved at temperatures ranging from 90 to 250 °C. The columns employed in this work include a ZirChrom‐DiamondBond‐C18, a XTerra MS C18, and a XBridge C18 column. The quantity of methanol consumed by the greener HTLC sunscreen methods developed in this project is significantly reduced although the HTLC separation at this stage is not as efficient as that achieved by traditional HPLC. SBWC separation of sunscreens was also achieved on the XTerra MS C18 and the XBridge C18 columns using pure water at 230‐250 °C. Methanol was eliminated in the subcritical water chromatography methods developed in this study.© 2011 The... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5422226 Sat, 19 Nov 2011 05:48:22 +0100 5422226 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5515429&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00697.x In this study, high‐temperature liquid chromatographic (HTLC) and subcritical water chromatographic (SBWC) separations of sunscreens contained in skincare creams were achieved at temperatures ranging from 90 to 250°C. The columns employed in this work include a ZirChrom‐DiamondBond‐C18, a XTerra MS C18 and a XBridge C18 column. The quantity of methanol consumed by the greener HTLC sunscreen methods developed in this project is significantly reduced although the HTLC separation at this stage is not as efficient as that achieved by traditional HPLC. SBWC separation of sunscreens was also achieved on the XTerra MS C18 and the XBridge C18 columns using pure water at 230–250°C. Methanol was eliminated in the SBWC methods developed in this study. (Source: International Journal of Cosme... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5515429 Thu, 17 Nov 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5515429 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5408179&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00696.x Abstract:It has become difficult to find a matching perfume. An overwhelming number of 300 new perfumes launch each year and marketing campaigns target pre‐defined groups based on gender, age or income rather than individual preferences. Recent evidence for a genetic basis of perfume preferences, however, could be the starting point for a novel population genetic approach to better match perfumes with people’s preferences. With a total of 116 participants genotyped for alleles of three loci of the Major Histocompatibility Complex (MHC), the aim of this study was to test, whether common MHC alleles could be used as genetic markers to segment a given population into preference types. Significant deviations from random expectations for a set of 10 common perfume ingredients indicate how s... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5408179 Wed, 16 Nov 2011 21:02:27 +0100 5408179 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5552397&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00694.x SynopsisThere has been a tenacious search for pharmaceuticals of natural origin, as they are cost‐effective and are noted for having little or no side effects. The rate at which diseases are developing resistance to synthetic drugs is quite alarming, and the side effects of these drugs remain an excruciating agony to the pharmaceutical industry. Gold nanoparticles (AuNPs) have wide applications in current technology. However, their use in medicine has not been adequately explored. Chemical methods for the synthesis are associated with environmental benignity and tissue toxicity on in vivo administration. For the first time, we have synthesized AuNPs from leaf extracts of Teraxacum officinale that were found to have significant anti‐melanoma, tyrosinase inhibitory and anti‐microbial e... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5552397 Wed, 16 Nov 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5552397 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5476650&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00695.x In this study, we compare the anti‐wrinkle related properties of CoQ10 and a proprietary Commiphora mukul gum resin (guggul) and triheptanoin preparation (GU‐TC7). GU‐TC7 is prepared with a supercritical CO2‐co‐solvent extraction with ethanol, standardized to 2% guggulsterones and triheptanoin, a triglyceride composed of three 7‐carbon fatty acids. Treatment of CCL‐110 skin fibroblasts with GU‐TC7 demonstrates a mild proliferative effect compared to CoQ10 and increased type I collagen synthesis. Additionally, GU‐TC7 inhibited matrix metalloproteinase‐1 (MMP‐1) expression in a dose‐dependent manner at 20–100 μg mL−1 and inhibited human elastase expression by more than 50% as compared to no elastase inhibition with CoQ10 treatment. These results suggest that ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5476650 Wed, 16 Nov 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5476650 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5476649&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00696.x SynopsisIt has become difficult to find a matching perfume. An overwhelming number of 300 new perfumes launch each year, and marketing campaigns target pre‐defined groups based on gender, age or income rather than on individual preferences. Recent evidence for a genetic basis of perfume preferences, however, could be the starting point for a novel population genetic approach to better match perfumes with people’s preferences. With a total of 116 participants genotyped for alleles of three loci of the major histocompatibility complex (MHC), the aim of this study was to test whether common MHC alleles could be used as genetic markers to segment a given population into preference types. Significant deviations from random expectations for a set of 10 common perfume ingredients indicate how... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5476649 Wed, 16 Nov 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5476649 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5408182&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00693.x SynopsisIn order to formulate a consumer‐acceptable cosmetic product numerous demands have to be fulfilled, as the most important, efficacy (both real and perceived) and adequate aesthetic (visual perception) and all sensorial characteristics have to be achieved. In the present study four model water‐in‐oil creams intended for hand care, varying in one emollient component, were submitted to rheological, sensory and textural characterization and their efficacy was evaluated in in vivo study on human volunteers. Our results indicate that certain alteration restricted to the oil phase induced a change in all investigated characteristics, showing that each instrumental measurement can be used as a sensitive tool in the characterization of cream samples. Regarding the correlation between ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5408182 Wed, 16 Nov 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5408182 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5408181&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00694.x SynopsisThere has been a tenacious search for pharmaceuticals of natural origin, since they are cost effective and are noted for having little or no side effects. The rate at which diseases are developing resistance to synthetic drugs is quite alarming and the side effects of these drugs remain an excruciating agony to the pharmaceutical industry. Gold nanoparticles (AuNPs) have wide applications in current technology. However, their use in medicine has not been adequately explored. Chemical methods for the synthesis are associated with environmental benignity and tissue toxicity on in vivo administration. For the first time, we have synthesized AuNPs from leaf extracts of Teraxacum officinale that were found to have significant antimelanoma, tyrosinase inhibitory and antimicrobial effects... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5408181 Wed, 16 Nov 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5408181 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5408180&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00695.x In this study we compare the anti‐wrinkle related properties of CoQ10 and a proprietary Commiphora mukul gum resin (guggul) and triheptanoin preparation (GU‐TC7). GU‐TC7 is prepared with a supercritical CO2‐ co‐solvent extraction with ethanol, standardized to 2% guggulsterones and triheptanoin, a triglyceride composed of three 7‐carbon fatty acids. Treatment of CCL‐110 skin fibroblasts with GU‐TC7 demonstrates a mild proliferative effect compared to CoQ10 and increased type I collagen synthesis. Additionally, GU‐TC7 inhibited matrix metalloproteinase‐1 (MMP‐1) expression in a dose dependent manner at 20 ‐100 ug/ml and inhibited human elastase expression by more than 50% as compared to no elastase inhibition with CoQ10 treatment. These results suggest that GU‐TC7 p... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5408180 Wed, 16 Nov 2011 05:00:00 +0100 5408180 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5335930&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00690.x SynopsisThe present work is based on a study of the effect of some vitamins such as riboflavin (RF), nicotinamide (NA) and alpha‐tocopherol (TP) on the photodegradation of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) (AH2) in oil‐in‐water cream formulations using a UV irradiation source. A UV spectrophotometric and the official iodimetric methods have been used for the assay of AH2 in cream formulations. These methods have been validated in the presence of RF, NA and TP before their application to the creams. The recoveries of AH2 in the creams are in the range of 90–95% and the reproducibility of the method is within ±5%. The apparent first‐order rate constants (kobs) for the photodegradation of AH2 in the presence of RF, NA and TP, individually, in the creams have been obtained. The second‐ord... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5335930 Thu, 20 Oct 2011 04:00:00 +0100 5335930 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5408183&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00689.x This article first introduces the concepts that underlie the calculations of scattering and absorption of light by small particles. Results of Mie theory calculations of light scattering and light absorption by 20, 50 and 100 nm TiO2 and ZnO particles are then presented. As the attenuation, or extinction, by these particles is the sum of the scattering and absorption, the attenuation can then be calculated for wavelengths over the UVA and UVB region. These theoretical results are then shown to be in reasonable agreement with experimental results for alkyl benzoate dispersions of three different types of TiO2 particle whose mean sizes range from 35 to 145 nm. Finally, the link between these measurements and the absorption curves of formulated dispersions of sunscreens are demonstrated a... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5408183 Mon, 17 Oct 2011 04:00:00 +0100 5408183 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5347636&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00692.x SynopsisResurrection plant Haberlea rhodopensis develops molecules to survive drought stress. These molecules allow the plant to resurge from a desiccation state. We have extracted a specific fraction from the plant (Haberlea extract) and found it rich, among other molecules, of a caffeoyl phenylethanoid glycoside called myconoside, a molecule extremely abundant in the plant with a potential role in survival. Peroxide‐stressed normal human dermal fibroblasts treated with the Haberlea extract, showed increased collagen VI (+822%), collagen XVI (+928%) and elastin (+144%) mRNA synthesis, measured by RT‐qPCR. This effect was superior to those obtained with benchmarks retinoic acid and retinol. When used at 3% in human skin biopsies, Haberlea extract protected against UV‐induced dermis o... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5347636 Sat, 01 Oct 2011 04:00:00 +0100 5347636 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5335929&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00691.x SynopsisHair pigmentation is one of the most conspicuous phenotypes of humans. From a chemical point of view, however, data remain scarce regarding human hair pigmentation characteristics. To determine melanin content and composition in human eumelanic hair from individuals of different ethnic origins and at different ages, we collected hair from 56 subjects with eumelanic hair from each group of African‐American, East Asian, and Caucasian origin. The 56 subjects consist of 14, 7 each of males and females, each from 4 age classes of younger than 11, between 12 and 19, between 20 and 45, and older than 46. We analyzed hair colour scale, total melanin value, and contents of pyrrole‐2,3,5‐tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) and pyrrole‐2,3‐dicarboxylic acid (PDCA). We measured age‐dependent... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5335929 Sat, 01 Oct 2011 04:00:00 +0100 5335929 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5324084&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00689.x SynopsisThis paper first introduces the concepts which underlie calculations of scattering and absorption of light by small particles. Results of Mie theory calculations of light‐scattering and light‐absorption by 20, 50 and 100 nm TiO2 and ZnO particles are then presented. Since the attenuation, or extinction, by these particles is the sum of the scattering and absorption, the attenuation can then be calculated for wavelengths over the UVA and UVB region. These theoretical results are then shown to be in reasonable agreement with experimental results for alkyl benzoate dispersions of three different types of TiO2 particle whose mean sizes range 35 nm to 145 nm.Finally the link between these measurements and the absorption curves of formulated dispersions of sunscreens are demonstrated... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5324084 Sat, 01 Oct 2011 04:00:00 +0100 5324084 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5273984&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00674.x SynopsisWe have developed a new method for studying human hair and nail water‐holding capabilities by using the condenser‐chamber trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL) method. Healthy hair and nail always contain certain amount of water, and they will lose this water to the environment naturally through evaporations. We monitored this desorption process by continuously measuring the water vapour flux density from hair and nail using the condenser‐TEWL method, which is a condenser‐based closed‐chamber TEWL technology that is particularly suitable for this kind of measurements. We have also develop mathematical models for modelling the hair and nail desorption process. By fitting the normalized hair and nail desorption data with the mathematical models, we can get the water diffusion... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5273984 Sat, 01 Oct 2011 04:00:00 +0100 5273984 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5260883&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00688.x SynopsisEnamel and dentin are susceptible to extrinsic and intrinsic stains. The purpose of this study was to determine the penetration pattern of Rhodamine B and dextran‐conjugated Rhodamine B into the enamel and dentin as observed by confocal laser microscopy and relate it to the penetration pattern of hydrogen peroxide commonly used as an active ingredient in tooth whitening agents and high molecular weight staining molecules. Eighteen recently extracted human maxillary anterior teeth were used. Teeth were cleaned and painted with nail varnish except for the crown area above the cemento‐enamel junction (CEJ). The painted teeth were then immersed in Rhodamine B and dextran‐conjugated Rhodamine B (70,000 MW) for 4, 7, 10, 15 days. Teeth were sliced to 3 mm thickness in transverse pl... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5260883 Thu, 29 Sep 2011 04:51:21 +0100 5260883 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5250834&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00687.x AbstractAfter measurement of individual growth rates, natural hair fibers from Asian and Caucasian subjects were analyzed using Scanning Electron Microscopy. In total, more than 1000 hairs were analyzed. Measurements of diameter, medulla and inter‐scale distance (average distance between two successive cuticle scales) show these parameters strongly correlated with hair growth rate. A thicker hair fiber, corresponds to a faster growth rate, a shorter inter‐scale distance and greater probability to have a medulla; and vice versa, a thin hair fiber shows slower growth rate, a larger inter‐scale distance and a lower probability to have a medulla. Very interestingly, this finding appears to be unrelated to the ethnic origin of the subjects, suggesting a common characteristic of human hair... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5250834 Sun, 25 Sep 2011 17:38:23 +0100 5250834 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5225711&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00683.x This study demonstrates that skin impedance can be utilized as a routine approach to screen surfactant‐containing formulations for their propensity to compromise the skin barrier and hence likely lead to skin irritation.RésuméLe stratum corneum (SC) est le point physiologique critique de la barrière cutanée dans la régulation de la perte d’eau par la peau et protège le corps contre un large éventail d’agressions extérieures physiques et chimiques. Les formulations contenant des tensioactifs peuvent induire des lésions cutanées et une irritation due à l’absorption et la pénétration des tensioactifs. Il est généralement admis qu’une réduction des propriétés de barrière cutanée survient déjà lors de l’imprégnation des tensioactifs dans la barrière cutanée.... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5225711 Sat, 17 Sep 2011 04:00:00 +0100 5225711 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5225710&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00684.x SynopsisProtein carbonyl groups in the stratum corneum may be used as a biomarker for skin photo‐stress. To evaluate the relationship between the protein carbonyl to total protein (TP) ratio (carbonylation ratio) and skin photo‐stress, the authors established a methodology by which protein carbonyl can be easily and highly sensitively analysed using an optical technique based on surface plasmon resonance (SPR). To collect the stratum corneum, tape stripping was employed. Firstly, the protein carbonyl was reacted with 2,4‐dinitrobenzenesulfonic acid dihydrate, and the quantity of dinitrophenylated (DNP)‐protein carbonyl was determined using an anti‐dinitrophenyl (anti‐DNP) antibody. The mass of DNP‐protein carbonyl was measured using SPR. A truncated sampling‐reporting cycle... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5225710 Sat, 17 Sep 2011 04:00:00 +0100 5225710 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5119947&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00676.x SynopsisReduced collagen matrix in the dermis constitutes one of the characteristic features of chronologically aged skin, which is further enhanced on the sun‐exposed portions of the body by chronic ultraviolet light (UV) irradiation, inducing the unique changes associated with skin photoageing. The zinc salt of l‐pyrrolidone carboxylate (Zinc PCA) has long been used as a cosmetic ingredient, because of its astringent and anti‐microbial properties. In the present study, by employing cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts, we found that Zinc PCA suppressed UVA‐induced activation of activator protein‐1 (AP‐1) and reduced matrix metalloproteinase‐1 production in these cells, which is thought to be involved in collagen degradation in photoaged skin. Moreover, Zinc PCA treatmen... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5119947 Wed, 10 Aug 2011 23:00:00 +0100 5119947 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5119946&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00677.x SynopsisMany women would like their mascara beauty benefits to be available all day, every day. One way to address this desire is through a semi‐permanent mascara technology that provides full mascara benefits of long, dark beautiful lashes for multiple days. To date, products promising multi‐day benefits have acted more as either ‘lash dyes’, providing a lash darkening benefit but failing to provide fullness and length, or waterproof mascaras that do not maintain the initial beauty look over multiple days. Here, a formulation approach is described for a mascara product that is designed to be abrasion resistant, flexible and insoluble in soap and water so that the initial beauty look is maintained for multiple days. The new semi‐permanent formula technology uses rosinate polymers... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5119946 Wed, 10 Aug 2011 23:00:00 +0100 5119946 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5119945&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00678.x SynopsisThe barrier function of skin is primarily provided by the lamellar lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which has been shown in previous infrared (IR) and related studies to consist predominantly of ordered lipids packed in orthorhombic and hexagonal domains. In the current work, we investigate the effects of the anionic surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS), on SC lipid packing and phase behaviour, using FT‐IR spectroscopy. The use of acyl chain perdeuterated SDS allows unequivocal spectroscopic detection of both endogenous lipid and exogenous material in intact tissue. IR spectra were acquired as a function of temperature from isolated human SC exposed to SDS for various incubation periods at 34°C. SDS is found to enter the SC and is observed to be in a more ordered s... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5119945 Wed, 10 Aug 2011 23:00:00 +0100 5119945 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5208937&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00686.x AbstractAn electroanalytical method was developed to detect and quantify the sunscreen agent octocrylene (OCR) in cosmetic products. The method was based on electrochemical reduction, using voltammetric techniques. OCR was reduced at –0.97 V vs. Ag/AgCl on a glassy carbon electrode using a mixture of Britton–Robinson buffer (0.04 mol L−1) and ethanol (7:3, v/v) as the supporting electrolyte solution. Under optimized conditions and square‐wave voltammetry, OCR response was linear from 5.0×10−6 to 8.0×10−5 mol L−1
(r = 0.9995), with a limit of detection of 2.8×10−6 mol L−1. The proposed electroanalytical method proved simple, fast, and suitable for detection and quantification of OCR in samples of cosmetic products, with satisfactory results in the recovery test and an... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5208937 Mon, 01 Aug 2011 04:00:00 +0100 5208937 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5192626&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00685.x SynopsisAs a white pigment, titanium oxide is used for cosmetic application. This oxide is well known to have the photo catalytic activity. Therefore a certain degree of sebum is decomposed by the ultraviolet radiation in sunlight. In this work, titanium phosphates were prepared as a novel white pigment. Their chemical composition, powder properties, photo catalytic activity, moisture retention, and smooth were studied with the addition of urea. These white pigments had little photo catalytic activity. The addition of urea improved the moisture retention of titanium phosphates. The slipping resistance of samples became small by heating, on the other hand, the roughness of samples became small by the addition of urea.© 2011 The Authors ICS © 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Soc... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5192626 Sun, 31 Jul 2011 23:00:00 +0100 5192626 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5175884&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00681.x SynopsisDespite of its complex multicomponent organization and its compact architecture, the Stratum corneum (SC) is not completely impermeable to substances directly applied on the skin surface. A huge number of works have been dedicated to the understanding of the mechanisms involved in substance permeation by exploring deeper layers than the SC itself. Surprisingly, there is a poor interest in studies relating to interactions which may occur in the near‐surface region (i.e. approximately 1 nm depth) of the SC. In this work, equilibrium proton‐transfer reactions have been used as probes to define in a fundamental point of view the nature of the SC interactions with its environment. Such titration curves are investigated on ‘in vitro’ SC (isolated SC from abdominal skin tissue) ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5175884 Sun, 31 Jul 2011 23:00:00 +0100 5175884 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5161863&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00682.x In this study, oil‐in‐water nanoemulsions of astaxanthin were prepared by high‐pressure homogenization. The influence of emulsifying conditions including emulsifier type, concentration, passing time, astaxanthin concentration and coantioxidants were optimized. The stabilities of nanoemulsions were measured using zetasizer, FF‐SEM, TEM, colorimeter and particle size analyzer. The mean diameter of the dispersed particles containing astaxanthin ranged from 160 to 190 nm. The size distribution was unimodal and extended from 100 to 200 nm. The nanoemulsions prepared with glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate (glyceryl ester) had smaller particle size and narrower size distribution than the emulsion prepared with hydrogenated lecithin. Stable incorporation of astaxanthin in nanoe... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5161863 Sun, 31 Jul 2011 23:00:00 +0100 5161863 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5143964&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00680.x SynopsisThe pigmentation patterns of facial skin of 354 healthy Chinese women aged 18–80 years were investigated clinically and instrumentally. Chromasphere® was used to acquire pictures from the cheeks of subjects. Facial skin tone was described by L* parameter from the L,a,b system as well as Individual Typology Angle (ITA). Results show that skin tone becomes significantly darker along the life span. Both size of hyper‐pigmented spots and their contrast with surrounding skin were found increased with age. As additional study, 40 women from these 354 subjects were asked to apply daily a whitening cosmetic product for a 2‐month period. Such application led to a significantly lighter skin tone, although this study was not vehicle controlled and we cannot exclude that the increase ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5143964 Sun, 31 Jul 2011 23:00:00 +0100 5143964 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5119944&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00679.x SynopsisA novel in vitro technique for measuring the efficacy of sunscreens over the skin surface is described. It is demonstrated that those products that spread easily are associated with both a low variance in delivered SPF and a subjective assessment of a product that is pleasing to use, which in turn results in a higher application thicknesses and greater delivered photoprotection leading to improved health benefits of sunscreen use.RésuméUne nouvelle technique in vitro pour mesurer l’efficacité des écrans solaires sur la surface de la peau est décrite. Il est démontré que les produits qui s’étalent facilement sont associés à une faible variance de leur FPS et sont qualifiés comme des produits agréables à utiliser ce qui entraînera une épaisseur d’application plus... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5119944 Sun, 31 Jul 2011 23:00:00 +0100 5119944 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5063892&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00673.x This study aims to evaluate the cutaneous absorption of catechins from an extract of green tea and from a green tea extract–loaded chitosan microparticle. The catechin skin metabolism was also examined. The results suggest that chitosan microparticles significantly improve the ability of catechins to permeate skin. The cutaneous metabolism of the catechins significantly affected their permeation profiles. Epicatechin (EC) and epigallocatechin (EGC) penetrated the skin more than epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) and epicatechin gallate (ECG). The galloyl groups in EGCG and ECG were enzymatically hydrolysed to EGC and EC, respectively. Dehydroxylation of catechins was also observed. Chitosan microparticles effectively prevented enzymatic changes of the catechins; therefore, chitosan micropar... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5063892 Tue, 26 Jul 2011 16:58:22 +0100 5063892 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=5063893&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00669.x SynopsisDuring the past few decades, there has been an increased interest in the essential role of commensal skin bacteria in human body odour formation. It is now generally accepted that skin bacteria cause body odour by biotransformation of sweat components secreted in the human axillae. Especially, aerobic corynebacteria have been shown to contribute strongly to axillary malodour, whereas other human skin residents seem to have little influence. Analysis of odoriferous sweat components has shown that the major odour‐causing substances in human sweat include steroid derivatives, short volatile branched‐chain fatty acids and sulphanylalkanols. In this mini‐review, we describe the molecular basis of the four most extensively studied routes of human body odour formation, while focusin... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=5063893 Sun, 24 Jul 2011 23:00:00 +0100 5063893 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4986238&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00664.x SynopsisMake‐up has a beautifying effect on facial attractiveness. However, little is known about the role of make‐up in other than social perception. Does eye make‐up applied to a gazing face influence the perception of this gaze by others? Eye make‐up might make an individual’s gaze more recognizable by emphasizing the contrast of the eyes. Or make‐up might make gaze less recognizable by transforming eyes to unnatural shapes. There were two stimulus conditions: eye make‐up (no‐eyeliner, thin‐eyeliner and thick‐eyeliner) and gaze direction (same gaze direction and different gaze directions). Participants had to make a recognition response indicating whether the gaze directions were the same or different. Results indicated that in the same gaze‐direction condition, th... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4986238 Fri, 01 Jul 2011 17:10:39 +0100 4986238 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4970428&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00671.x SynopsisAcute eczematous atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with increases in stratum corneum (SC) serine protease activity. The purpose of this study was to examine whether the increased SC protease activities in acute eczematous atopic dermatitis were associated with increased mass levels of SC proteases. Six subjects with healthy skin and six patients with AD each with non‐lesional skin or lesional acute eczematous skin had the mass levels of their extractable SC kallikreins (KLK), plasmin and urokinase quantified using Luminex multiplex bead‐based assays from SC tape strippings. The mass levels of KLK5 and KLK14 together with urokinase were not elevated in the SC in atopic skin. However, the mass levels of KLK7 and KLK11 together with plasmin were greatly elevated compared with t... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4970428 Thu, 23 Jun 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4970428 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4960941&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00661.x This study compared the genotoxic potential of a polymeric associative thickener used in topically applied emulsions preserved with three different preservative systems. The method used for the assessment of genotoxicity is the in vitro micronucleus test [Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) guideline number 487]. When changing an additive such as a preservation system in a raw material, it is crucial to re‐evaluate its toxicity potential because this change may significantly alter its properties. This study shows that at the levels tested neither of the systems evaluated demonstrated any cytotoxic or genotoxic effects. Skin exposure must take into consideration factors such as duration, skin condition and metabolism, but most importantly concentration. Although p... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4960941 Tue, 21 Jun 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4960941 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4954570&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00660.x This study was conducted to evaluate the effects of a commercially available shampoo in Korean subjects with alopecia using a simple hand‐held phototrichogram technique. Forty‐four subjects with alopecia were enrolled and forty subjects continued for 16 weeks. In the test group, total hair counts increased significantly at weeks 8 and 16, and the number of shedding hair significantly decreased at week 16. Terminal hair counts significantly increased at week 8. In the control group, hair thickness and the number of vellus hairs significantly decreased at week 16. The number of total hairs significantly increased in the test group than in the control group at weeks 8 and 16. The number of shedding hairs significantly decreased in the test group than in the control group at week 16. Vis... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4954570 Mon, 20 Jun 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4954570 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4937023&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00672.x SynopsisScientific evaluation of fabric softener use on the friction of fabrics and on dry skin in real life is very limited. The coefficient of friction of fabrics was measured with a surface tester using model skin and cotton fabrics. The effects and safety of fabric softener‐treated T‐shirts on subjects with dry skin were evaluated in real‐life conditions in the cold and arid environment. Twenty male volunteers with dry skin used T‐shirts without softener for 1 week before day 0 and then wore softener‐treated T‐shirts for 14 days. Effects were evaluated by clinical grading, subjective symptoms, stratum corneum water content (SCWC) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). A significant decrease in the coefficient of friction of fabrics was detected. A significant improveme... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4937023 Sun, 12 Jun 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4937023 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4937022&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00658.x SynopsisIt has been shown that topical linoleic acid rich‐phosphatidylcholine seems to be effective in normalization of follicular hyperkeratinization, whereas nicotinamide has an interesting anti‐inflammatory effect. However, little is known about their combined effect on acne. A multicentre, double‐blind, 12‐week randomized vehicle and parallel‐active control study was conducted by clinical and biophysical non‐invasive measurements to evaluate the efficacy, tolerability and safety of a 4% nicotinamide‐phospholipidic (N‐PHCL) emulsion vs. 1% topical clindamycin phosphate applied once daily. Four percentage N‐PHCL cosmetic treatment resulted slightly superior to topical clindamycin with all the parameters studied for its better compliance and the global clinical improveme... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4937022 Sun, 12 Jun 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4937022 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4977743&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00667.x SynopsisProopiomelanocortin is a precursor peptide that gives rise to several neuropeptides including adrenocorticotrophic hormone (ACTH) and β‐endorphin. POMC‐derived peptides have been shown to be synthesized in human epidermis where they modulate numerous skin functions. Because we previously observed that melanocortin receptor‐2 and μ‐opioid receptor 1, the respective receptors for ACTH and β‐endorphin decreased with ageing in human epidermis, we have selected an active ingredient (INCI name: Achillea millefolium extract) able to upregulate receptor expressions. The aim of the present work was first to evaluate the effect of A. millefolium extract on the expression pattern of various epidermal differentiation markers ex vivo in normal human skin biopsies using quantitativ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4977743 Tue, 31 May 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4977743 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4970427&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00659.x We examined hair mechanics and styling by technical measures of single‐fibre torsional and tensile properties, combability and style retention as a function of the calcium and magnesium content of virgin and bleached hair. Our work has indicated that water hardness can affect hair properties. Fibre stiffening was induced by the presence of water hardness metals inside the fibres of both virgin and bleached hair. A reduction in combing forces was also observed, and this effect is believed to be a result of the stiffening. The style retention of virgin hair was improved by water hardness metals, whereas that of bleached hair was slightly reduced.RésuméLes cheveux peuvent extraire des niveaux significatifs de calcium, de magnésium ou de métaux des eaux dures ou de l’eau du robinet imm... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4970427 Tue, 31 May 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4970427 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4960940&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00675.x The objectives of this study were to identify a plant extract that would improve stratum corneum functions and to elucidate the mechanism(s) involved. Based on the information that stratum corneum functions depend on the level of ceramide in the stratum corneum, we identified a Eucalyptus extract that was able to increase the level of ceramide in human keratinocytes in culture and in human stratum corneum and that improves the stratum corneum water holding and barrier functions. Addition of the Eucalyptus extract to human keratinocytes in culture increased the level of ceramide in a dose‐dependent manner and also increased the biosynthesis of ceramide, glucosylceramide and sphingomyelin. Topical application of the Eucalyptus extract on the dry skin of human subjects induced by acetone an... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4960940 Tue, 31 May 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4960940 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4954569&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00666.x SynopsisTape stripping in conjunction with scanning Raman microscopy was used for assessing the lateral and vertical distribution of an organic particulate UV filter, methylene bis‐benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT), in a sunscreen formulation. On the volar forearms of three volunteers, 1 mg cm−2 formulation containing 10% MBBT was applied, and the average amount of MBBT was measured by Raman scanning microscopy in 15 consecutive tape strippings. The recovery of MBBT was 91.1% with 30.2% localizing on the skin surface (first strip), 42.5% in the upper stratum corneum (strips 2–5) and from 3.6 down to 0.8% in each of the 10 consecutive layers. The concentration of surface deposits of MBBT differed by a factor of 300 between folds, furrows and pores on the one hand and th... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4954569 Tue, 31 May 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4954569 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4937021&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00662.x SynopsisAn investigation into the influence of UV irradiation on keratin hydrolysates was carried out using UV–Vis spectroscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and fluorescence spectroscopy. It was found that the absorption of keratin hydrolysates in solution increased during irradiation of the sample, most notably between 250–280 and 320–410 nm. The increase in absorbance in the region 320–410 was because of the new photoproducts formed during UV irradiation of keratin hydrolysates. The fluorescence of keratin hydrolysates was observed at 328 nm after excitation at 270 nm. UV irradiation caused fluorescence fading at 328 nm, and after 60 min of irradiation, a new broad weak band of fluorescence, attributable to new photoproducts, emerged in the UV wavelen... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4937021 Tue, 31 May 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4937021 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4895414&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00670.x This study indicates the need to further evaluate the differences in skin response to daily exposure to strong sun among various ethnic‐origin inhabitants.RésuméLes origines ethniques et génétiques modifient la structure de la peau et ses fonctions. Le photovieillissement devient un des sujets les plus étudiés en cosmétologie. Toutefois, il y a relativement peu de données disponibles concernant l’évaluation de l’effet du photovieillissement sur les peaux ethniques, et plus particulièrement chez les personnes qui habitent sous des climats ensoleillés et chauds comme ceux de l’Asie du Sud. Deux cent quarante personnes ont participéà l’enquête qui a été menée dans la vallée de Pokhara, au Népal, et ils ont été classés en quatre catégories selon leur âge (30, ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4895414 Tue, 31 May 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4895414 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4864329&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00663.x In this study, baseline values for the transverse nailplate curvature of the thumb, index, middle, ring and little fingers are presented. The thumbnail is the flattest, followed jointly by the index and middle fingernails, then the ring fingernail and finally the little fingernail. Transverse nail curvature is influenced by a person’s gender, age, hand dominance and hand width, but not by hand length. Thus, nails are flatter in the dominant hand, in men, in older individuals and in those with wider hands.RésuméLa forme convexe de la plaque de l’ongle dans les deux directions, longitudinale et transversale, semble contribuer à sa rigidité mécanique, et la courbure pourrait être un symptôme de troubles locaux et/ou systémiques. Tandis qu’un certain nombre de méthodes pour mesu... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4864329 Thu, 26 May 2011 16:17:09 +0100 4864329 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4864330&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00668.x SynopsisHeavy metals can cause several genotoxic effects on cells, including oxidative stress, DNA sequence breakage and protein modification. Among the body organs, skin is certainly the most exposed to heavy metal stress and thus the most damaged by the toxic effects that these chemicals cause. Moreover, heavy metals, in particular nickel, can induce the over‐expression of collagenases (enzymes responsible for collagen degradation), leading to weakening of the skin extracellular matrix. Plants have evolved sophisticated mechanisms to protect their cells from heavy metal toxicity, including the synthesis of metal chelating proteins and peptides, such as metallothioneins and phytochelatins (PC), which capture the metals and prevent the damages on the cellular structures. To protect human... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4864330 Mon, 23 May 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4864330 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4831615&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00646.x The objective and subjective (sensory) skin irritation potentials of five 1,2‐alkanediols – 1,2‐butanediol, 1,2‐pentanediol, 1,2‐hexanediol, 1,2‐octanediol and 1,2‐decanediol – were evaluated. We also estimated percutaneous absorption by measuring in vitro skin penetration using a Franz diffusion cell system. Like anti‐microbial activity, sensory irritation potential increased as alkane chain length increased, most likely due to increasing membrane interference and/or intrinsic toxicity of 1,2‐alkanediols. 1,2‐Hexanediol showed the lowest objective skin irritation potential, which increased when the alkane chain length decreased or increased. Furthermore, percutaneous absorption negatively correlated with the alkane chain length of 1,2‐alkanediols. These results sho... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4831615 Wed, 18 May 2011 16:48:35 +0100 4831615 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4831616&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00642.x SynopsisThe hydroglycolic (HG) extract from 70% propylene glycol (PG) extraction of myrobalan fruits showed the most appreciable antioxidant efficiency towards 1,1‐diphenyl‐2‐picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) in comparison to the extracts from 30, 50, 70 and 100% ethyl alcohol (EA), and 30, 50 and 100% PG . Its total polyphenols were also higher than others. The additional analysis of antioxidant power revealed that this HG extract was able to counteract the induced oxidation caused by hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and 2,2′‐azobis(2‐amidinopropane) dihydrochloride (AAPH). The quantification for the antioxidant capacity of the extract showed it was equivalent to 93.78 mg of 6‐hydroxy‐2,5,7,8‐tetramethychroman‐2‐carboxylic acid (Trolox) g−1 by 2,2′‐azino‐bis(3‐ethylbenzthiaz... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4831616 Mon, 16 May 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4831616 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4822065&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00665.x SynopsisThree studies were performed to investigate the mechanism of action and evaluate the efficacy of a topical cosmetic slimming product combining tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, caffeine, carnitine, forskolin and retinol. The Ex vivo study on skin explants showed that caffeine and forskolin both stimulated glycerol release and demonstrates for the first time that retinol and carnitine in combination synergistically stimulated keratinocyte proliferation, which leads to an increase epidermal thickness. The double‐blind, randomized, placebo‐controlled clinical study associating circumference measurements on five selected parts of the body, cutaneous hydration measurements as well as blinded expert grading of skin aspect was conducted on 78 women who applied the product or placebo... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4822065 Sat, 14 May 2011 18:01:31 +0100 4822065 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4790384&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00650.x (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4790384 Fri, 06 May 2011 16:20:38 +0100 4790384 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4776407&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00656.x In this study, we have examined the lactate and the progerin production of human normal cutaneous cells issued from subjects of different ages. Using a sensitive and specific progerin ELISA assay developed in house, we so provide the first quantitative demonstration of an increased progerin expression and lactate production in skin during ageing. Moreover, we have also demonstrated that in the selected experimental conditions, it was possible to down‐regulate the progerin production of aged cells by using an algae extract. As this extract, an Alaria esculenta extract, could be used in cosmetic formulations, we suggest that a better understanding of the skin pathologies could be a useful tool in developing efficient active compounds, attractive for but not limited to cosmetic purposes.Ré... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4776407 Mon, 02 May 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4776407 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4776406&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00653.x This study produced a linear correlation between L* and age for a Caucasian population between 20 and 59 years of age as follows: (L* value) = −0.13 × (Age in years) + 63.01. Previous studies have addressed age‐related changes in skin colour. This work presents a novel consumer correlated quantitative linear model of skin brightness by which to communicate age‐related changes. Two product assessment studies are also presented here, demonstrating the ability of anti‐ageing products to deliver on objective and subjective improvements in skin brightness. It was determined to be possible to use the fundamental Caucasian L*‐age correlation to describe product benefits in a novel quantitative and consumer‐relevant fashion, through the depiction of a ‘years back’ calc... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4776406 Mon, 02 May 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4776406 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4736192&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00654.x SynopsisProtection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the major function of sunscreen lotions and UV‐protective coatings for vehicles, homes, equipment and clothing. Sunscreen formulations have been optimized to become protective over a broader spectrum of UV radiation and maintain greater photostability. They are comprised of organic and inorganic components that act as chemical and physical UV protectors, respectively. Some of the organic components are limited by their spectrum of protection and photostability. Studies using solid lipid nanoparticles, recently explored organic molecules, inorganic components and antioxidants attempt to further optimize UV protection. In this review, we examine traditional and emerging nanoparticle components and highlight novel ideas in UV protecti... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4736192 Wed, 20 Apr 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4736192 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4736191&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00652.x This study refers to an innovative association of polysorbate 80 and palmitic ester of l‐ascorbic acid for the production of good stability and very thin nanostructured emulsions with average micellar diameter size ranging from 100 to 300 nm. This system has showed to be very performing to create nanoemulsions with moderate stirring rate and warming regimen thanks to the high efficiency of the association between ascorbyl palmitate and polysorbate‐80 (PS‐80). This nanoemulsified system is very easy to achieve and shows a very good capability to encapsulate several substrates of both nutritional and cosmetic usage such as melatonin, resveratrol, essential oils and steroidic terpenes such as boswellic acids and others. This system has been optimally applied to nutraceutical and cosme... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4736191 Wed, 20 Apr 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4736191 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4776405&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00657.x In this study, we review in detail KTTKS and its major derivatives, in terms of the limited information in the literature and an appraisal of its physicochemical and theoretical skin permeation properties. There appears to be a sound in vitro basis for its action on fibroblasts due to its stimulatory effect on extracellular matrix synthesis, where the stimulatory effect of KTTKS is specific to collagen types I and III and fibronectin expression. However, there is a surprising absence of in vitro skin penetration data in the literature, and there are relatively few clinical studies using these materials.RésuméLe vieillissement cutané est un processus irréversible causé par des facteurs tant intrinsèques qu’extrinsèques. La possibilité d’arrêter ou de retarder le vieillissement ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4776405 Thu, 31 Mar 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4776405 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4736190&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00655.x In conclusion, 0.01% OGA stimulates epidermal spreading and promotes keratinocytes attachment to basement membrane components by reorganizing cytoskeleton and modulating integrins recruitment. Furthermore, 0.01% OGA promotes epidermal differentiation and regulates epidermis homeostasis. Considering that OGA has a beneficial effect on parameters playing a key role in ageing, OGA can be presented as a new anti‐ageing active ingredient.RésuméCette étude a eu pour objectif d’analyser les effets d’oligogalacturonides obtenus par hydrolyse enzymatique de pectine de pomme (principalement composés d’acide galacturonique et d’oligogalacturonides; OGA) sur le comportement de kératinocytes humains normaux dans différents modèles in vitro. Nous montrons que 0,01% d’OGA stimule la cr... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4736190 Thu, 31 Mar 2011 23:00:00 +0100 4736190 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4654437&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00645.x In this study, quantitative real‐time polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) was used to investigate the effects of topical application of salicin in regulating the expression of functional ‘youth gene clusters’ to reflect a more youthful skin profile and reduce the appearance of attributes associated with skin ageing. Results showed that salicin significantly influences the gene expression profiles of treated human equivalent full‐thickness skin, by regulating the expression of genes associated with various biological processes involving skin structure, skin hydration, pigmentation and cellular differentiation. Based on the findings from this experiment, salicin was identified as a key ingredient that may regulate functional ‘youth gene clusters’ to reflect a more youthful gene expr... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4654437 Wed, 30 Mar 2011 15:55:24 +0100 4654437 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4595129&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00649.x SynopsisBody malodour, including foot odour, suppresses social interaction by diminishing self‐confidence and accelerating damage to the wearer’s clothes and shoes. Most treatment agents, including aluminium anti‐perspirant salts, inhibit the growth of malodourous bacteria. These metallic salts also reduce sweat by blocking the excretory ducts of sweat glands, minimizing the water source that supports bacterial growth. However, there are some drawback effects that limit the use of aluminium anti‐perspirant salts. In addition, over‐the‐counter anti‐perspirant and deodourant products may not be sufficiently effective for heavy sweaters, and strong malodour producers. Body odour treatment agents are rarely mentioned in the literature compared with other cosmetic ingredients. Thi... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4595129 Wed, 16 Mar 2011 16:37:38 +0100 4595129 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4595134&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00638.x This study evaluated the effectiveness of carbomer gels and cold process self emulsifying bases on skin pigmentation, using different concentrations of a chemical system composed of DHA and N‐acetyl tyrosine, which are found in moulted snake skins and their effectiveness was tested by Mexameter® MX 18. Eight different sunless tanning formulas were developed, four of which were gels and four of which were emulsions (base, base plus 4.0%, 5.0% and 6.0% (w/w) of a system of DHA and N‐acetyl tyrosine). Tests to determine the extent of artificial tanning were done by applying 30 mg cm−2 of each formula onto standard sizes of moulted snake skin (2.0 cm × 3.0 cm). A Mexameter® MX 18 was used to evaluate the extent of coloration in the moulted snake skin at T0 (before the appl... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4595134 Tue, 15 Mar 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4595134 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4595133&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00640.x SynopsisGlycation is an ageing reaction of naturally occurring sugars with dermal proteins, whose clinical signs may appear in vivo around age 30, and increases steadily/regularly with age. The suppleness of the dermis is affected by the formation of bridges between proteins and sugars (Maillard’s reaction). The residues formed (Amadori products, Advanced Glycation End products) as well as the proteins they alter, can be visualized by specific immunostainings.Induced in a few days on living skin explants by methylglyoxal, glycation can be prevented by the application of aminoguanidine HCl, the reference anti‐glycation molecule. This model enabled to highlight the anti‐glycation activity of substances of vegetal origin such as puerarin and chlorogenic acid.RésuméLa glycation est une... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4595133 Tue, 15 Mar 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4595133 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4595132&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00643.x In this study, an Agilent SB‐C18 analytical column (250 × 4.6 mm, 5 μm) was utilized and methanol, tetrahydrofuran and perchloric acid aqueous solution (0.2 mL HClO4 + 300 mL H2O) were used for gradient elution at a total flow rate of 1.0 mL min−1. The optimum conditions for 11 different ultraviolet‐absorbing chemicals analyses were investigated. All calibration curves showed good linear regression with UV detection (311 nm) within test ranges. The correlation coefficients were better than 0.999 in all cases. The assay was simple, selective, convenient and reproducible and is suitable for the determination of ultraviolet‐absorbing chemicals in commercial sunscreen cosmetic products. The use frequency of 11 different ultraviolet absorbents in 100 sunscreen co... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4595132 Tue, 15 Mar 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4595132 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4595131&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00651.x SynopsisOne of the main functions of the skin is to protect the organism against environmental threats, such as thermal stress. Aquaporin‐3 (AQP3) facilitates water and glycerol transport across cell membranes and therefore regulates osmotic balance in different situations of stress. This mechanism seems to be particularly important for the resistance of different organisms to cold stress. Consequently, we were interested in investigating the effect of cold and osmotic stress on AQP3 expression in normal human keratinocytes. We developed a new active ingredient to stimulate aquaporins in skin and demonstrated the partial restoration of AQP3 expression in keratinocytes transfected with AQP3 siRNA. Moreover, we examined the effect of cold stress on cell morphology and the impact of a pre�... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4595131 Tue, 15 Mar 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4595131 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4595130&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00647.x SynopsisAcne vulgaris suppresses an individual’s self‐confidence by causing distress with regard to physical appearance, which affects a significant number of individuals during puberty and is delineated by adolescence. Several treatments have been introduced to decrease the aesthetic and psychological problems caused by acne. The topical application of therapeutic agents has been found to be more feasible than hormonal treatment and laser therapy. The ingredients in topical acne treatments, particularly herbs and naturally derived compounds, have received considerable interest as they have fewer adverse effects than synthetic agents.RésuméL’acné vulgaire touche à l’assurance d’un individu en causant une détresse face à son apparence physique. Elle affecte un nombre importa... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4595130 Tue, 15 Mar 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4595130 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4561760&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00648.x SynopsisGiven that a variety of bacterial species may occur in the calcium carbonate powder used for cosmetic formulations, an understanding of their diversity and abundance is necessary to accurately assess the contamination of the finished product. 16S rRNA was PCR‐amplified from genomic DNA extracted from three different calcium carbonate powder grades, and these amplicon libraries were sequenced using deep amplicon sequencing technology. The resulting libraries contained 4149–6688 16S rRNA reads per sample with a length of 327–342 bp. Classification into genus of pyrosequencing reads of the dominant bacterial species found in calcium carbonate powders was used to confirm the absence of Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Salmonella spp. and Escherichia coli. The ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4561760 Wed, 09 Mar 2011 16:32:57 +0100 4561760 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4561763&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00639.x SynopsisThe facial skin of 354 women, aged 18–80, living in Shanghai, was investigated over two successive 6 month periods, summer and winter. Results from clinical assessments indicate that aging signs, such as wrinkling and sagging, are unaffected over such period.However, physical measurements revealed alterations in some functional criteria of the skin, such as sebum output, skin colour, melanin content of pigmented spots, skin hydration, all being increased during summer. The relationships between all criteria, as well as technical or applied inferences/consequences from this study, are discussed.RésuméLa peau du visage de 354 femmes résidant à Shanghai, âgées de 18 à 80 ans a été observée à deux périodes successives, été et hiver. Les résultats des évaluations cli... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4561763 Tue, 08 Mar 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4561763 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4561762&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00641.x SynopsisThe stem cell factor (SCF) and its protein–tyrosine kinase receptor KIT are together implicated in the regulation of diverse biological processes and particularly in melanogenesis. Indeed, this signalling pathway controls melanoblast migration from the neural crest during embryogenesis and allows the communication between keratinocytes and melanocytes in the adult. In melanocytes, the binding of SCF to its transmembrane receptor leads to the activation of signalling pathways implicating protein kinases which finally control the expression of pigmentation‐related genes. We have developed a biological compound called IV09.007, which we previously described as a modulator of the SCF/KIT signalling pathway with a pro‐pigmenting effect. In the present work, we have studied the exp... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4561762 Tue, 08 Mar 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4561762 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4561761&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2011.00644.x SynopsisThe text obtained for this review from Professor Albert Kligman was drawn posthumously from a variety of notes that he had been planning to use to write a review on corneobiology and corneotherapy. It was a review that he had dearly hoped to complete – his final ‘magnum opus’ with reflections on the subject.ResumeCette revue du Professeur Albert Kligman, a étéécrite de façon posthume à partir d’un grand nombre de notes qu’il avait rassemblées dans le but d’écrire une revue sur la cornéobiologie et la cornéothérapie. C’est un sujet qu’il avait ardemment souhaité compléter, son ‘chef d’œuvre’ final avec des réflexions sur ce sujet. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4561761 Tue, 08 Mar 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4561761 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4502931&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00608.x SynopsisThere have been few reports classifying the biophysical characteristics of Korean women with healthy skin. Consequently, the aim of this study was to find the most useful parameters for categorizing skin types based on a clinical assessment. One hundred and three female volunteers, aged 20–59, participated in this study. We conducted a self‐evaluation questionnaire, a clinical assessment of the facial skin, and non‐invasive measurements on the cheek under controlled environmental conditions. The questionnaire survey indicated that 72% of respondents had dry skin. However, results of the clinical assessment focusing on skin roughness and scaling of the cheek showed that 6 subjects had very dry skin (6%), 29 had dry skin (28%) and 68 had normal skin with sufficient moisture (66... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4502931 Mon, 21 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4502931 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4502930&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00614.x SynopsisLoss of pigmentation in hair fibres is one of the most obvious phenotypic changes with ageing and has been a topic of increasing interest in the study of follicle biology. The onset of greying brings cosmetic complaints that grey fibres are wild or difficult to manage. Of course, these perceptions may be the consequence of visual obviousness rather than underlying physical or chemical differences. Although several studies have compared pigmented and unpigmented fibres, few have tried to control genetic and ethnic difference as well as extrinsic factors such as photoexposure and chemical treatment. We have recruited subjects with salt‐and‐pepper hair from a population of Old Order Mennonites who, for cultural reasons, are not only prohibited from chemically treating their hair b... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4502930 Mon, 21 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4502930 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4502929&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00633.x This study aimed to evaluate the antimicrobial effectiveness of C‐8 xylitol monoester, for its use as a preservative in cosmetic formulations. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) was determined by the broth macrodilution method, and the antimicrobial effectiveness of C‐8 xylitol monoester was determined by using challenge test method. The results obtained in the determination of minimum inhibitory concentration are between 1.0% and 1.25% for Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and Candida albicans and between 1.0% and 1.5% for Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Aspergillus niger. The amount of 1% of C‐8 xylitol monoester was added to the lotion used in the challenge test, observing a rapid decline in the number of CFU g−1 in stages of evaluation after contamination of the prod... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4502929 Tue, 01 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4502929 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4484339&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00635.x In this study, a novel chitosan microparticle preparation method was developed using water‐in‐silicone emulsion technique with green tea extract as a model active compound. Chitosan microparticles of diameter <5 μm were obtained from 2% chitosan solution with tripolyphosphate (TPP) solution as the hardening agent. The size and properties of the particles appeared to depend on several parameters such as TPP, emulsifier concentrations and pH. High concentration of emulsifier led to low encapsulation and particle aggregation. Entrapment efficiency of chitosan microparticles was improved with lower pH of the tripolyphosphate solution [59.94 ± 3.97 of epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)] while slowing release of catechins. Epigallocatechin and epicatechin were released almost complet... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4484339 Tue, 01 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4484339 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4446728&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00636.x SynopsisAxillary sweat is odourless when freshly collected at the surface of human skin, but it contains non‐odoriferous precursors, which can be transformed into odorous substances by bacteria. E‐3‐methyl‐2‐hexanoic acid (3M2H) is one of the key odorous substances, but there are two contradictory reports about its precursor form. One report states that 3M2H linked non‐covalently to apolipoprotein D (apoD) is the precursor, while a second report states that 3M2H–Gln identified in human axillary sweat is the precursor. Recently, 3‐hydroxy‐3‐methyl hexanoic acid (HMHA) and 3‐methyl‐3‐sulfanylhexane‐1‐ol (3M3T) have also been identified and reported as characteristic components found in apocrine sweat. To better understand the formation of axillary odours and the... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4446728 Tue, 01 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4446728 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4420139&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00630.x SynopsisThe aim of this study was to determine how worthwhile it would be to combine a newly developed topical slimming product with customized dietary habits not based on calorie restriction, so as to improve the cellulite appearance of the skin. At the beginning of the study, a nutritionist recorded the dietary habits of each participant and gave recommendations to each of them according to their food consumption. The chosen methodology was a right/left comparison, one thigh and hip being treated with the new topical slimming product and the other one left untreated to serve as a random control. Objective evaluations were performed by blind assessors. Control of food intake improved the cellulite score after 4 weeks when compared with the base value, but this reduction was significantl... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4420139 Tue, 01 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4420139 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4420138&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00632.x SynopsisOur external appearance plays a key role in everyday life’s social interactions. Hence, taking care of our appearance allows us to adjust and protect ourselves, as well as communicate emotional disposition (i.e. sympathy or aversion) and social information (i.e. values, status). However, some discrete body parts or characteristics appear to be more salient than others in contributing to global body image. For example, authors showed that facial attractiveness is one of the best predictors of overall physical attractiveness and represent one of the primary factors influencing global self‐esteem. Make‐up is therefore ought to play a major influence in these parameters. Moreover, in a previous study whose subject was to explain the reasons that motivate women to make‐up, we sh... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4420138 Tue, 01 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4420138 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4420137&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00634.x SynopsisWe investigated sex difference in evaluation, using the human fingertip, of the tactile impressions of three different micron‐scale patterns laser‐engraved on plastic plates. There were two ordered (periodical) patterns consisting of ripples on a scale of a few micrometres and one pseudo‐random (non‐periodical) pattern; these patterns were considered to mimic the surface geometry of healthy and damaged human hair, respectively. In the first experiment, 10 women and 10 men ran a fingertip over each surface and determined which of the three plates felt most unpleasant. All 10 female participants reported the random pattern, but not the ordered patterns, as unpleasant, whereas the majority of the male participants did not. In the second experiment, 9 of 10 female participants ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4420137 Tue, 01 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4420137 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4420136&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00637.x In this study, we show S. aqueum leaf extracts to have a significant composition of phenolic compounds, protective activity against free radicals as well as low pro‐oxidant capability. Its ethanolic extract, in particular, is characterized by its excellent radical scavenging activity of EC50 of 133 μg mL−1 1,1‐diphenyl‐2‐picryl‐hydrazyl (DPPH), 65 μg mL−1 2,2′‐azino‐bis(3‐ethylbenzthiazoline‐6‐sulphonic acid) (ABTS) and 71 μg mL−1 (Galvinoxyl), low pro‐oxidant capabilities and a phenolic content of 585–670 mg GAE g−1 extract. The extract also displayed other activities, deeming it an ideal cosmetic ingredient. A substantial tyrosinase inhibition activity with an IC50 of about 60 μg mL−1 was observed. In addition, the extract was ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4420136 Tue, 01 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4420136 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4420135&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00626.x SynopsisNanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) are potential active delivery systems based on mixtures of solid lipids and liquid oil. In this paper, aqueous dispersions of NLCs were prepared by a hot high‐pressure homogenization technique using carnauba wax as the solid lipid and isodecyl oleate as the liquid oil. The preparation and stability parameters of benzophenone‐3‐loaded NLCs have been investigated concerning particle size, zeta potential and loading capacity to encapsulate benzophenone‐3, a molecular sunscreen. The current investigation illustrates the effect of the composition of the lipid mixture on the entrapment efficiency, in vitro release and stability of benzophenone‐3‐loaded in these NLCs. A loading capacity of approximately 5% of benzophenone‐3 (mBZ‐3/mlipi... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4420135 Tue, 01 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4420135 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4420134&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00627.x This report highlights the results of a clinical study where confocal Raman spectroscopy was used to assess the differences between underarm and volar forearm skin. In the reported study, the concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), urea, lactic acid, cholesterol, trans urocanic acid (t‐UCA) and ceramide 3 (N‐octadecanoyl‐phytosphingosine) was evaluated as a function of depth, body site (underarm vs. forearm) and age. Two age groups of women were included: (i) between 20 and 30 years and (ii) older than 55 years (post‐menopause). The levels of cholesterol, ceramide 3 and lactic acid were highest in the underarm regardless of the age group whereas the forearm contained higher amounts of NMF. Ceramide 3, urea and lactic acid were significantly lower for women 55 year... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4420134 Tue, 01 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4420134 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4420133&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00628.x SynopsisThe ESR spectra of melanin’s free radicals in natural black and red hair have been investigated. It is shown that the ESR spectrum of black hair is slightly asymmetric singlet with g = 2.0037 and ΔH = 0.5 mTl. The ESR spectrum of red hair with g = 2.0053 differs from the spectrum of black hair. Using the method of saturation was shown that ESR spectrum of red hair represents a superposition of two signals: a singlet, relating to the black hair, and a triplet from red hair’s pheomelanin. Under the influence of visible light (blue with λmax = 450 nm, green with λmax = 510 nm and red with λmax = 650 nm) in both types of hair (black and red), the photoinduced free radicals appear, which indicates an increase in the intensity of already existing E... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4420133 Tue, 01 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4420133 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4420132&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00629.x SynopsisThe fruits of various Zanthoxylum species are used as a spice in the Chinese and Japanese cuisine because of their delicate flavour and tingling properties. The lipophilic hydroxyalkamides hydroxy α‐ and β‐sanshools (1a,b) have been identified as the tingling principles of these plants, and previous studies have validated a sanshool‐rich lipophilic extract from the fruit husks of Z. bungeanum Maxim. (Zanthalene®) as an anti‐itching cosmetic ingredient. Because tingling is a sort of ‘paralytic pungency’, and Zanthalene® potently inhibits synaptic transmission, we have investigated its capacity to relax subcutaneous muscles and act as a topical lifting agent for wrinkles. An anti‐wrinkles extract rich in spilanthol (2), a lipophilic alkamide having sensory properti... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4420132 Tue, 01 Feb 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4420132 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4400941&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00625.x In this study, we examined the effects of LPL (soybean‐derived phospholipids modified with phospholipase A2 and C) compared with LPA. We initially examined the effects of LPA on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) focusing on the expression of profilaggrin and serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT) mRNAs. LPA enhanced the expression of profilaggrin and SPT mRNAs via the modulation of Ca2+ influx. Based on those results, the influence of LPL on NHEK was examined and was expanded to analyse the expression of two tight junction–related proteins, occludin and claudin‐1. LPL had similar effects to increase profilaggrin and SPT mRNA expression and also stimulated the expression of occludin and claudin‐1 at the mRNA and protein levels. In accordance with these results, LPL elicited sig... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4400941 Thu, 27 Jan 2011 15:29:07 +0100 4400941 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4400945&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00619.x This study shows that the concentration of some of the most frequently used allergenic preservatives can be markedly lowered when they are combined with phenoxyethanol. The antimicrobial efficacy of cosmetic preservatives and known allergens of various potency [diazolidinyl urea, methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI), methylisothiazolinone (MI) and phenoxyethanol] was tested alone and in various combinations of two or three preservatives together. The preservatives were tested for minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) values and possible synergy using fractional inhibitory concentration. MCI/MI was the only preservative showing low‐level MIC against all four tested microorganisms: Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger.... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4400945 Thu, 27 Jan 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4400945 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4400944&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00621.x SynopsisSensory analysis of lipstick product by trained panellists started with recruiting female panels who are lipstick users, in good health condition and willing to be a part of sensory members. This group of people was further scrutinized with duo‐trio method using commercial lipstick samples that are commonly used among them. About 40% of the 15 panels recruited were unable to differentiate the lipstick samples they usually use better than chance. The balance of nine panels that were corrected at least with 65% across all trials in panels screening process was formed a working group to develop sensory languages as a means of describing product similarities and differences and a scoring system. Five sessions with each session took about 90 min were carried out using 10 types of li... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4400944 Thu, 27 Jan 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4400944 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4400943&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00623.x In this study, the efficacy of a shampoo containing 0.5% piroctone olamine and 0.45% climbazole (shampoo 1) was compared with a widely available commercial shampoo containing 1% zinc pyrithione (shampoo 2). In vitro studies investigating the anti‐mycotic efficacy of a combination of 0.5% piroctone olamine and 0.45% climbazole as well as 1% zinc pyrithione were performed. To study substantivity, pig skin punches were used as a model system and a test of wet combability was performed to characterize combing ease. In vivo home‐in‐use studies were carried out to determine the efficacy of both shampoos to improve scalp condition and reduce itching in subjects suffering from moderate to severe dandruff. Results demonstrated a comparable anti‐fungal effectiveness for 0.5% piroctone olami... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4400943 Thu, 27 Jan 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4400943 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4400942&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00624.x SynopsisThe addition of water to lipsticks in the form of a water‐in‐oil emulsion is an attractive opportunity for cosmetics manufacturers to deliver hydrophilic molecules to the consumers, as well as improving the moisturizing properties. In this work, the effect of the emulsifier type and water content on the structural properties of the designed products was investigated. It has been shown that PGPR leads to smaller droplets than the other emulsifiers tested. This was attributed to the ability of PGPR to form elastic interfaces that slow the coalescence between droplets during the process. It was also observed that crystals of wax tend to form structures at the interface upon cooling that prevent coalescence during storage. These structures also prevent leakage of water into the con... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4400942 Thu, 27 Jan 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4400942 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4395238&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00616.x SynopsisSkin‐lightening products are commercially available for cosmetic purposes to obtain lighter skin complexion. Clinically, they are also used for treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders such as melasma, café au lait spot and solar lentigo. All of these target naturally melanin production, and many of the commonly used agents are known as competitive inhibitors of tyrosinase, one of the key enzymes in melanogenesis. In this review, we present an overview of commonly used skin‐whitening ingredients that are commercialized, but we also hypothesize on other mechanisms that could be important targets to control skin pigmentation such as for example regulation of the adrenergic and glutaminergic signalling and also control of tetrahydrobiopterins in the human skin.RésuméLes produits ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4395238 Tue, 25 Jan 2011 18:44:52 +0100 4395238 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4395240&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00615.x SynopsisSeveral novel heterocyclic compounds based on 1,2,3,4‐tetrahydroquinoline and 2,3‐dihydroindole have been investigated for their application of colour keratin fibres as blue oxidative dye precursors, especially to human hair. The colourants we studied contained anyone of these dyes (concentration range from 0.005% to 6%), and some common oxidative hair dyes, such as p‐phenylenediamine, toluene‐2,5‐diamine sulphate. Experiments were carried out on the method of mixing hair colourants with H2O2 gel at the ratio of 1 : 1, accompanied by pH = 8∼11. It is demonstrated that 1,2,3,4‐tetrahydroquinoline derivatives could be considered as an excellent candidate for blue dyes, and N‐methyl‐7‐amino‐1,2,3,4‐tetrahydroquinoline is the most outstanding one among t... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4395240 Tue, 25 Jan 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4395240 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4395239&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00622.x This study examines the effects of using nanoscale TiO2 on ultraviolet (UV) attenuation in simple to complex sunscreen formulations. UV light attenuation, product stability, and potential damage to the skin barrier were examined with both nanoscale and microscale TiO2 particles. Results indicate that none of the formulations decreased the barrier function of the skin and the best UV attenuation occurs when the TiO2 particles are stabilized with a coating and evenly distributed such as with non‐agglomerated coated nanoscale materials. This indicates that nanoscale TiO2 may have better efficacy while lacking toxicity.RésuméAu cours des dernières années, nous avons constaté une tendance dans l’industrie solaire/cosmétique pour le remplacement des particules micron‐taille de dioxyd... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4395239 Tue, 25 Jan 2011 00:00:00 +0100 4395239 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082998&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00620_5.x In previous studies, extract from Artocarpus incisus' (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082998 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:43 +0100 4082998 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082997&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00620_4.x The objective was to determine whether differences in skin hydration as a function of body site may arise from differences in the chemical makeup of the skin, specifically the FAAs. Levels were quantified from serial SC samples collected from the forearm, calf, back, torso, and jaw in two studies using HPLC methods. FAA levels were higher from the calf versus the forearm and lower from the jaw compared to torso and back skin. Body site variations in skin hydration could not be attributed to differences in FAA levels. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082997 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:43 +0100 4082997 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082996&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00620_3.x We investigated the phase diagrams and the morphology of the complexes that were formed by cationic polymers, cationic cellulose (CC) and cationic dextran (CD), and by anionic surfactant‐based sodium poly(oxyethylene) lauryl ether sulfate (LES). The anionic charge of the LES‐based surfactants was changed by adding an amphoteric surfactant, lauryl amidopropyl betaine acetate (LPB), or a nonionic surfactant, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether (C18EO25). We discuss the relationship between the complex aggregation process and the morphology of the precipitated complexes. The morphologies of CC complex aggregates, which precipitated during the dilution process in a model shampoo solution, changed from membranous forms to mesh‐like forms by decreasing the charges of both the CC and the surfacta... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082996 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:42 +0100 4082996 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082995&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00620_2.x A novel compound named Wild Plum (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082995 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:41 +0100 4082995 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082994&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00620_1.x 2‐Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) (also known as deanol) has been used as an ingredient in skin care, and in cognitive function‐ and mood‐enhancing products. It is marketed as a free base or salt, and in theory, the two forms should be equally effective and able to substitute for each other in pharmaceutical formulations. Detecting possible alterations in the active principle is a basic part of preformulation studies. Accordingly, this study compared DMAE and DMAE bitartrate to identify potential alterations or differences between the free base and the salt that might compromise the long‐term stability of cosmetic preparations at different temperatures, and also compared the behavior of the base substance and derivative alone and in solution. Samples were analyzed with different physic... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082994 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:41 +0100 4082994 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082993&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00619_4.x The aim of the present study was to compare the effectiveness and the safety of different topical agents (glycolic acid, mandelic acid and grape juice acid mixture) in skin exfoliation by objective instrumental methods. To evaluate the exfoliating effects of these substances, a new experimental in vivo protocol based on DHA (dihydroxyacetone)‐induced skin pigmentation was used. Skin acceptability towards acid application was investigated by the evaluation of skin erythema induced by topical application of these substances at increased concentrations. Furthermore, their photosensitizing effects were evaluated by determining the increase in sensitivity to UV‐light exposure in cutaneous sites previously treated with acids. These in vivo (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082993 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:40 +0100 4082993 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082992&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00619_3.x In this study we evaluated the effect on human skin repair of different IWL extract compositions obtained by two extraction methodologies. The formation and characteristics of the liposomes prepared were greatly influenced by the IWL composition, primarily the sterol sulfate content. The IWL liposomes improved skin barrier integrity and increased skin hydration when applied onto intact skin. These improvements were slightly enhanced in the case of IWL liposomes that were richer in polar lipids. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082992 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:40 +0100 4082992 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082991&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00619_2.x The FDA has recently taken steps to reduce risks due to raw materials affected by economically motivated adulteration (EMA). One area of great interest is diethylene glycol (DEG) or ethylene glycol (EG) adulteration of glycerin, propylene glycol, and solutions of sorbitol, for which the USP monographs have recently been, revised (1). Such adulterations have occurred many times and in many countries, including a tragic episode between November 2008 and January 2009 in which 84 children in Nigeria died after ingesting teething syrup contaminated with DEG (9, 10). To eliminate this problem, the FDA has required manufacturers of finished products to assay and confirm that incoming glycerin, propylene glycol, and sorbitol solutions meet the USP limits, and the FDA/USP has incorporated such test... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082991 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:39 +0100 4082991 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082990&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00619_1.x A biotransformed metabolite of naringenin was isolated from the fermentation broth of Aspergillus oryzae (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082990 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:38 +0100 4082990 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082989&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00618_5.x The results of antioxidant activities by ORAC assay and CAA assay were evaluated for melanogenesis. Although the antioxidant activity by ORAC was not correlated with the melanogenesis, the samples which showed high antioxidant activity by CAA tended to suppress melanogenesis. Caffeic acid and Citrus depressa (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082989 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:38 +0100 4082989 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082988&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00618_4.x In this study, we developed unique artificial hair surface model plates that specifically represent non‐damaged and damaged states of hair and reduce the individual variation in results that occurs frequently when real hair is used. The tactile sensations of four different types of hair surface model plates were evaluated by touching and rubbing them. The results showed that a wider cuticle and an irregular order of cuticle structure were essential to feel hair damage. The tactile sensation of damaged hair is influenced more by the shape of the cuticle under dry conditions although fingers can recognize a hydrophilic surface and can feel hair damage when the surface is touched and rubbed even under dry conditions. Furthermore, the tactile sensation of hair damage and the improvement effe... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082988 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:37 +0100 4082988 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082987&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00618_3.x We examined skin physiology function and patient's QOL by using a skin care product for women for two months with skincare instruction from a dermatologist for 31 female patients this time. As a result, it was able to be confirmed that the physiology function of the skin and the patient's QOL were improved, and the skin care instruction by a leading dermatologist was useful as treatment assistance of the acne patient. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082987 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:37 +0100 4082987 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082986&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00618_2.x It is generally thought that the ‘glary’ appearance impression developed on men's faces is closely related to the amount of skin surface lipids. Although the amount of sebum excretion decreases gradually with aging, the glary appearance is noticeable in middle‐aged men. In order to elucidate the factors other than skin surface lipids affecting the glary appearance of the forehead, a correlation study between the visual evaluation score of glary appearance and morphological measurements of skin surface was conducted. As a result of multiple regression analysis, the standardized partial regression coefficients were 0.490 for the amount of skin surface lipids, –0.370 for skin micro texture and –0.314 for value of skin color. The data indicated that the amount of skin surface lipids ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082986 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:36 +0100 4082986 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=4082985&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00618_1.x . (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=4082985 Wed, 20 Oct 2010 13:02:35 +0100 4082985 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922161&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00609_6.x pp. 147–160 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922161 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:28 +0100 3922161 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922160&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00609_5.x pp. 133–145 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922160 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:27 +0100 3922160 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922159&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00609_4.x pp. 125–132 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922159 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:27 +0100 3922159 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922158&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00609_3.x pp. 107–123 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922158 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:26 +0100 3922158 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922157&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00609_2.x pp. 85–105 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922157 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:26 +0100 3922157 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922156&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00609_1.x pp. 73–83 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922156 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:25 +0100 3922156 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922155&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00591_5.x pp. 39–48 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922155 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:25 +0100 3922155 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922154&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00591_4.x pp. 31–38 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922154 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:25 +0100 3922154 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922153&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00591_3.x pp. 23–29 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922153 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:24 +0100 3922153 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922152&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00591_2.x pp. 13–22 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922152 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:24 +0100 3922152 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922151&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00591_1.x pp. 1–12 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922151 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:24 +0100 3922151 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922150&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00605_6.x pp.48–56 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922150 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:23 +0100 3922150 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922149&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00605_5.x pp.41–47 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922149 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:23 +0100 3922149 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922148&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00605_4.x pp.34–40 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922148 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:22 +0100 3922148 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922147&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00605_3.x pp.29–33 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922147 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:22 +0100 3922147 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922146&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00605_2.x pp.23–28 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922146 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:21 +0100 3922146 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922145&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00605_1.x pp.2–22 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922145 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:21 +0100 3922145 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922144&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00583_5.x pp.274–280 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922144 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:21 +0100 3922144 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922143&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00583_4.x pp.267–273 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922143 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:20 +0100 3922143 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922142&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00583_3.x pp.260–266 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922142 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:20 +0100 3922142 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922141&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00583_2.x pp.254–259 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922141 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:19 +0100 3922141 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922140&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00583_1.x pp.247–253 (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922140 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:19 +0100 3922140 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922139&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00574.x Synopsis (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922139 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:16 +0100 3922139 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3922138&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00585.x Synopsis (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3922138 Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:43:16 +0100 3922138 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3818215&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00588.x In this study, we show that retinol (ROL), known to enhance dermal collagen production, is also enhancing elastin fibre formation. ROL induced elastin gene expression and elastin fibre formation in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. Topical treatment of cultured human skin explants with a low dose (0.04%) of ROL increased mRNA and protein levels of tropoelastin and of fibrillin-1, an elastin accessory protein, as documented by QPCR and immunohistochemistry staining. Luna staining confirmed the increased elastin fibre network in the ROL-treated skin explants, as compared with untreated controls. These data demonstrate that ROL exerts its anti-ageing benefits not only via enhanced epidermal proliferation and increased collagen production, but also through an increase in elastin production an... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3818215 Tue, 03 Aug 2010 23:00:00 +0100 3818215 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3818214&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00598.x Solid lipid nanoparticle (SLN) was regarded as new topical delivery systems for pharmaceutical and cosmetic active ingredients. The purpose of this study is to develop carrier systems for organic and inorganic sunscreens based on a matrix composed of carnauba wax and decyl oleate. Formulae (F1[ndash]F7) were prepared using butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and octyl methoxycinnamate as organic components, and titanium dioxide (TiO2) was used as inorganic component. Both types of sunscreens were incorporated into SLN formulations using classical method of preparation. To evaluate the effect of the pigments on the nanoparticles, particle size was measured using Mastersizer particle size analyser. UV-protection abilities of formulations were investigated by the in vitro sun protection factor test... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3818214 Tue, 03 Aug 2010 23:00:00 +0100 3818214 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3818213&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00599.x A highly sensitive, simpler, faster and economical UV/visible spectrophotometric method has been established for the estimation of hydroquinone (HQ) in dilute organic matrices. The method is based on using ammonium meta-vanadate as an oxidizing catalyst for conversion of HQ to p-benzoquinone (BQ) in the presence of oxygen. As a result of higher absorption of UV light by BQ than by HQ, its signal has been utilized for determining HQ at the trace level. The effect of various parameters such as amount of oxidizing agent, stability time, temperature, acids and bases, solvents and interference by various compounds has been studied upon the absorption of BQ as HQ. Under optimized conditions, Beer's Law was obeyed in the range of 0.025[ndash]2.00 [mu]g ml[minus]1 HQ at 245.5 nm using 1 : 1 (V/V) ... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3818213 Tue, 03 Aug 2010 23:00:00 +0100 3818213 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3818212&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00603.x Several tropical flowers have distinctive fragrances which are very appealing to use in perfumery, cosmetics and spa. However, to obtain a 'natural fragrance' from the flower is a challenge as the scent could change during the extraction process. The aim of the study is to find the suitable procedure for extraction of volatile oils from some Thai fragrant flowers. Three different methods: hydrodistillation, solvent extraction and enfleurage methods have been applied for the extraction of volatile oil from Jasminum sambac L. Aiton; Oleaceae (jasmine). The quantities and quality of jasmine volatile oils obtained from the different tested methods were compared. The solvent extraction method using 95% ethanol provided the greatest level of oil yield. However, sensory evaluation using preferenc... International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3818212 Tue, 03 Aug 2010 23:00:00 +0100 3818212 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3916846&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00581.x (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3916846 Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:00:00 +0100 3916846 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3916845&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00593.x (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3916845 Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:00:00 +0100 3916845 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3916844&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00594.x (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3916844 Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:00:00 +0100 3916844 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3916843&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00606.x (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3916843 Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:00:00 +0100 3916843 http://www.medworm.com/index.php?rid=3916842&cid=s_31736_12_f&fid=31736&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdx.doi.org%2F10.1111%252Fj.1468-2494.2010.00607.x (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science) International Journal of Cosmetic Science journals http://www.medworm.com/rss/comments.php?id=3916842 Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:00:00 +0100 3916842