International Journal of Cosmetic ScienceThis is an RSS file. You can use it to subscribe to this data in your favourite RSS reader, such as GoogleReader, or to display this data on your own website or blog. Subscribe to this data using MyMedWorm.Subscribe to this data using GoogleReader.Subscribe to this data using Bloglines.Subscribe to this data using MyYahoo.

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316 records returned

Drying stress and damage processes in human stratum corneumEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
We describe the application of a substrate curvature technique adapted for biological tissue to accurately characterize SC drying stresses as a function of time following environmental pre-conditioning and chemical treatment in a range of drying environments. SC stresses were observed to increase to stress levels of up to [sim] 3 MPa over periods of 8 h depending on pretreatment and drying environment. A unique relationship between the SC stress and water in the drying environment was established. The effect of glycerol on lowering SC stresses and damaging surfactants on elevating SC stresses were quantified. Extensions of...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 4, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: K. Levi, R. J. Weber, J. Q. Do, R. H. Dauskardt Source Type: journals

Visible skin condition and perception of human facial appearanceEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
This article (i) reviews briefly some of the main determinants of visible skin condition, (ii) presents recent evidence on its signalling value in face perception and (iii) suggests areas for future research with reference to an evolutionary psychology framework. La psychologie évolutive suggère que certaines normes de beauté de l'homme ont évolué pour fournir des indices fiables de la fécondité et la santé. Par conséquent, les préférences pour certaines caractéristiques physiques du visage et du corps sont censées refléter les adaptations pour la promotion de ce choix. Les études portant sur l'attractivité...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 3, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: N. Samson, B. Fink, P. J. Matts Source Type: journals

Lipopeptides in cosmeticsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Lipopeptides are biosurfactants extensively used in cosmetics. The consumption of cosmetics containing lipopeptides is increasing as a result of the exceptional surface properties and diverse biological activities of lipopeptides which facilitate a vast number of applications not only in the pharmaceutics industry which includes cosmetics but also in the food industry. Cosmetics containing lipopeptides are available in various dosage forms according to their beneficial surface properties, which include anti-wrinkle and moisturizing activities and cleansing cosmetics. The microbial production of lipopeptides particularly th...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 3, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Kanlayavattanakul, N. Lourith Source Type: journals

Biophysic evaluation of polysaccharide gel from durian's fruit hulls for skin moisturizerEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Durian or Dutio zibethinus Murr. (Bombacaceae) is a tropical fruit native to Southeast Asia particularly cultivated in Thailand as an economic plant. Once it is consumed, the fruit hulls are discarded as waste products. Polysaccharide gel (PG) from durian's fruit hulls is obviously efficient for use in the preparations of food and pharmaceutical products. This research focused on biophysical assessment of PG durian's fruit hulls for cosmetic formulation. The efficacy of facial skin capacitance and firmness increment of PG formulation were evaluated. Its application showed significant effect on skin capacitance after 28 and...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 3, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. Futrakul, M. Kanlayavattanakul, P. Krisdaphong Source Type: journals

Simple and rapid analytical method for the simultaneous determination of cetrimonium chloride and alkyl alcohols in hair conditionersEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
A simple method for the simultaneous determination of a cationic surfactant (cetrimonium chloride) and four non-ionic surfactants (1-tetradecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-octadecanol and 1-eicosanol) has been developed. Direct extraction of the analytes from the sample with methanol and a subsequent separation using reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography with refractive index detection are the steps followed in the procedure. The column used was a Luna C18 and the mobile phase consisted of a 0.1 M KClO4 solution prepared on a 95:5 mixture of methanol and water. This solution was adjusted to pH 2.8 with phosphoric a...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 3, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. Terol, M. Gómez-Mingot, S. E. Maestre, S. Prats, J. Luis Todolí, E. Paredes Source Type: journals

Effect of konjac glucomannan hydrolysates and probiotics on the growth of the skin bacterium Propionibacterium acnes in vitroEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
The synbiotic ability of probiotic bacteria and konjac glucomannan hydrolysates (GMH) to inhibit acne-inducing bacterium, Propionibacterium acnes growth was studied in vitro. All probiotic bacteria strains tested were able to inhibit the growth of this species of skin bacterium where the inhibition was significantly (P < 0.01) enhanced by the presence of the GMH prebiotic. As the current treatment of acne is based on topical or systemic drugs, it is worth examining further the biotherapeutic activities of the GMH and selected probiotics with a view to future use as prophylactic or therapeutic synbiotics for treating acne i...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 10, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: F. H. Al-Ghazzewi, R. F. Tester Source Type: journals

Antioxidant kinetics of plant-derived substances and extractsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
The antioxidant activity (AA) of substances present in several plant species has been widely studied which reflects their fundamental role in the protection of skin tissue against the harmful action of reactive oxygen species. Given the importance of effective and long-lasting protection against ultraviolet radiation, we studied the AA of several plant derivatives and extracts over time. Several chemical in vitro methods may be used to evaluate antioxidant capability, among which the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method stands out, despite its unspecificity, as the most cited and described method in the literature. ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 9, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. R. Silva, P. F. C. Menezes, T. Martinello, G. F. L. Novakovich, C. E. O. Praes, I. H. S. Feferman Source Type: journals

A bioactive complex to protect proteins from UV-induced oxidation in human epidermis1Email this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
UV light induces multiple damages including protein oxidation on skin. Oxidized proteins if not degraded by the proteasome would eventually accumulate causing metabolic damage, elastosis and pigment formation such as lipofuscin. During ageing, the activity of the proteasome decreases dramatically together with enzymes that protect from oxidation and as a result oxidized proteins accumulate. We have investigated a combination of Panthenyl triacetate and Ethyl linoleate (bioactive complex) to fight against protein oxidation. This complex when tested at 3% on human skin biopsies showed statistically significant protection fro...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 9, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: K. Schweikert, F. Gafner, G. Dell'Acqua Source Type: journals

RAPA: a novel in vitro method to evaluate anti-bacterial skin cleansing productsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
In conclusion, RAPA provides a simple, rugged and reproducible in vitro method for testing the relative efficacy of anti-bacterial skin cleansing products with a likelihood of comparable clinical efficacy. Further testing is warranted to improve the clinical predictability of this method. Le développement des produits de nettoyage de peau antibactérienne efficace a été limité par la disponibilité d'une méthode (in vitro) préclinique pour prévoir en juste proportion l'efficacité clinique. Nous rapportons une méthode simple et rapide, indiquée comme analyse rapide de plat d'agar (RAPA) ce des utilisations la surf...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 9, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. A. Ansari, R. B. Gafur, K. Jones, L. A. Espada, T. G. Polefka Source Type: journals

An analytical method for the determination of betaine (trimethylglycine) from hairEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Hair fibres have no active renewable protective mechanisms yet hair (wool and fur) provides an essential protective function. Therefore, it is possible that hair contains a number of internal components to maintain fibre and protein structure and function through a range of normal environmental conditions. Trimethylglycine (betaine) provides cellular and protein protection during times of high osmotic stress and low water concentrations. These conditions are very pertinent to everyday cosmetic procedures such as shampooing, bleach or perming. Therefore, we have conducted preliminary investigations to establish the presence...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 9, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: K. Pulliainen, H. Nevalainen, H. Väkeväinen, K. Jutila, C. L. Gummer Source Type: journals

Differential deposition of emollients from tripartite formulation systemsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
In this study, the effects of various tripartite systems consisting of sodium laureth sulphate (SLES), a co-surfactant and an emollient were studied. The two different emollients tested adsorbed with varying amounts although the same surfactant/co-surfactant system was used. Interestingly, the deposition of both SLES and/or the emollient is also substantially influenced by the emollient component itself as well as by the co-surfactant used. Sensory assessments showed that although SLES has a negative effect on the skin feel, adsorbed emollients improve skin softness and smoothness. These results show that optimization of p...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 1, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. Mehling, H.-M. Haake, W. Poly Source Type: journals

Two new lipoaminoacids with complementary modes of action: new prospects to fight out against skin agingEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
The mode of action of two cosmetic active ingredients (AIs), palmitoyl glycine (PG) and cocoyl alanine (CA) was studied with cDNA array experiments and quantitative PCR confirmations, which were performed on experimentally aged human fibroblasts. These preliminary studies revealed complementary profiles. Thus, specific supplementary investigations were then carried out for each AI. Protocols used were based either on in vitro models: (i) biochemical assays, (ii) monolayer cell culture (primary human fibroblasts and keratinocytes) and (iii) the model of capillary-like tube formation by human endothelial cells or on ex vivo ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 31, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Dumont, L. Cattuzzato, G. Trouvé, N. Chevrot, C. Stoltz Source Type: journals

Ultrastructural assessments of the melanosome distribution patterns and pigmentation features in human epidermal cells after UV irradiation and kojic acid treatmentEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
It is well-known that skin pigmentation depends, among others, on number, aggregation and distribution of melanosomes in the epidermis. Here we describe a correlative microscopy-based ultrastructural approach that investigates the spatial distribution and pigmentation features of the melanosomes within melanocytes and keratinocytes. Data obtained from control skin, ultraviolet (UV)-stimulated tissue and kojic acid-treated UV-irradiated explants are compared. We introduce original parameters for the evaluation of the aggregation and pigmentation features of the melanosomes: the aggregation and pigmentation indexes. The aggr...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 31, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: K. Vie, R. Fitoussi, É. Mathieu, L. D. Benetti, É. Gooris, J. Hemmerlé Source Type: journals

Comparative evaluation of different substrates for the in vitro determination of sunscreen photostability: spectrophotometric and HPLC analysesEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates and TransporeTM tapes were compared as substrates for the in vitro evaluation of photostability of commercial sunscreen products. The sun care preparations were applied respectively on TransporeTM tapes and PMMA plates and their sun protection factors (SPF) and UVA protection parameters [UVA/UVB ratio, critical wavelength, UVA protection factor (UVA-PF)] were measured by transmission spectroscopy, before and after irradiation with simulated sunlight. No significant differences were observed in the UV protection parameters measured on TransporeTM tapes or PMMA plates, before exposure to ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 31, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Scalia, M. Mezzena, A. Bianchi Source Type: journals

Importance of sunscreen products spreading protocol and substrate roughness for in vitro sun protection factor assessmentEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
The purpose of this study was to evaluate the impact of substrate roughness and of product spreading method on in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) measurement and to define the experimental conditions most appropriate to reach the best level of correlation to in vivo SPF. In vitro SPF assessment was carried out on 13 products (including different formulation types with SPF from 20 to 75) using various in vitro SPF protocols and comparing related predictive potential regarding in vivo SPF. In the first part, two spreading methods were compared on two types of PMMA (Polymethyl methacrylate plate with different roughness. Th...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 18, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: L. Fageon, D. Moyal, J. Coutet, D. Candau Source Type: journals

Optimization of preservatives in a topical formulation using experimental designEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
In this study, three preservatives were tested: benzoic acid, sorbic acid and benzylic alcohol. Their preservative effects were evaluated using the antimicrobial preservative efficacy test (challenge-test) of the European Pharmacopeia (EP). A D-optimal mixture design was used to provide a maximum of information from a limited number of experiments. The results of this study were analysed with the help of the Design Expert® software and enabled us to formulate emulsions satisfying both requirements A and B of the EP. L'optimisation d'un système conservateur au sein d'une préparation nécessite la détermination de l'effi...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 16, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: Y. Rahali, A.-M. Pensé-Lhéritier, C. Mielcarek, Y. Bensouda Source Type: journals

Roughness analysis of the skin as a secondary evaluation criterion in addition to visual scoring is sufficient to evaluate ethnic differences in wrinklesEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
We examined whether both the roughness analysis of the skin and visual scoring are sufficient to characterize ethnic differences in wrinkles in Japanese, Chinese and German women. One hundred and five Japanese, 96 Chinese and 90 German age-matched women participated in this study. The severity of their wrinkles in the skin at two sites at the periphery of the eye was evaluated by visual scoring using a photoscale and by roughness values obtained from three-dimensional analysis of skin replicas. Slight but significant differences were scarcely observed between Japanese and Chinese women as well as between Japanese and Germa...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 16, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: T. Fujimura, K. Sugata, K. Haketa, M. Hotta Source Type: journals

Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skinEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Ageing, a basic biological process seen in all living creatures, is not preventable. Surgical and topical modalities have been invented and substances were applied topically to alter the ageing process. Peptides and proteins, frequently used for this purpose, were categorized into four groups: signal peptides, enzyme-inhibitor peptides, neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptides and carrier peptides. We comprehensively review eligible studies -including controlled ex vivo or in vivo efficacy studies on any topical peptide or protein that has been administered to treat signs and symptoms of ageing. Le vieillissement, processus bio...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 29, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: F. Gorouhi, H. I. Maibach Source Type: journals

An oral nutraceutical containing antioxidants, minerals and glycosaminoglycans improves skin roughness and fine wrinklesEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
The objective of this research was to study the effectiveness of an oral nutraceutical containing antioxidants, minerals and glycosaminoglycans on cutaneous ageing. In this double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 60 women aged 35[ndash]60 years were randomized to receive oral dietary supplement (n = 30) or placebo (n = 30), once daily for 12 weeks. The depth of skin roughness and fine wrinkles were measured using surface evaluation of skin parameters for living skin (Visioscan) at baseline, and at the 4, 8 and 12 weeks of treatment. Surface evaluation using a replica film (Visiometer) at baseline and at the 12th week of tr...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 29, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Udompataikul, P. Sripiroj, P. Palungwachira Source Type: journals

Influence of concentration of fragrances on salivary α-amylaseEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
The objective is to reveal the influence of the concentration of fragrances on salivary biomarkers, which reflect the human stress system, in 15 female young healthy adults. Lavandula officinalis and Citrus aurantium were used as the test samples. Salivary biomarkers such as [alpha]-amylase activity (AMY), cortisol (CORT) and dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) were measured during baseline, inhalation and post-inhalation periods. Our results indicated that (i) a significant difference was not observed for the control and the 3 wt% test samples, however, the AMY was decreased by inhalation of the 1 wt% test samples (P < 0.05); (...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 7, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Yamaguchi, Y. Tahara, S. Kosaka Source Type: journals

Natural surfactants used in cosmetics: glycolipidsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Cosmetic surfactant performs detergency, wetting, emulsifying, solubilizing, dispersing and foaming effects. Adverse reactions of chemical synthesis surfactant have an effect on environment and humans, particularly severe in long term. Biodegradability, low toxicity and ecological acceptability which are the benefits of naturally derived surfactant that promises cosmetic safety are, therefore, highly on demand. Biosurfactant producible from microorganisms exhibiting potential surface properties suitable for cosmetic applications especially incorporate with their biological activities. Sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mannos...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 3, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: N. Lourith, M. Kanlayavattanakul Source Type: journals

Effects of topical gluco-oligosaccharide and collagen tripeptide F in the treatment of sensitive atopic skinEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
In conclusion, the study shows that the modulation of bacterial proliferation and normalization of skin barrier properties and stratum corneum moisturization can improve the symptoms of sensitive skin. La peau sensible est un problème dermatologique croissant et souvent associé aux conditions atopiques et à une surinfection bactériologique. Dans cette étude randomisée en double aveugle contre placébo, nous avons évalué l'efficacité d'un gluco-oligosaccharide (G-OS)et du tripeptide de collagène F (CTP-F) sur les signes et les symptômes de la peau sensible atopique. L'étude concerne 40 femmes de 30 à 59 ans aya...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 3, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: E. Berardesca, E. Abril, M. Serio, N. Cameli Source Type: journals

In vitro evaluation of the cutaneous penetration of sprayable sunscreen emulsions with high concentrations of UV filtersEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
This study was conducted using static diffusion cells (Franz cells). The determination of organic UV filters [Methylene Bis Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT); Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT); Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB); Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EMC); and 2-Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (ED-PABA)] was performed by High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). Therefore, it was important to develop a single analytical method for the quantification of the five organic filters with the aim of facilitating the experiment. The determination of inorganic filters [titanium di...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 3, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: L. Durand, N. Habran, V. Henschel, K. Amighi Source Type: journals

Improvement of facial skin characteristics using copper oxide containing pillowcases: a double-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel, randomized studyEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Copper plays a key role in several processes of skin formation and regeneration. Copper has been shown to be absorbed through intact skin. We hypothesized that sleeping on fabrics containing copper-impregnated fibres would have a positive cosmetic effect on the skin. The aim of this study was to confirm our hypothesis. A 4-week, double blind, parallel, randomized study was carried out in which 57 volunteers aged 40[ndash]60 years used either copper oxide containing pillowcases (0.4% weight/weight) or control pillowcases not containing copper. Photographs were taken by a professional photographer of each participant at the ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 22, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: G. Borkow, J. Gabbay, A. Lyakhovitsky, M. Huszar Source Type: journals

The alkaline pH-adapted skin barrier is disrupted severely by SLS-induced irritationEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
The pH of the healthy skin is 5.5 and maintained by many regulatory mechanisms. The pH of the skin care product we use on a daily basis can have an influence on the skin properties. To investigate how the physical properties of skin change after the alkaline or acidic pH of the skin care products are applied on the skin for a long term, we adjusted the pH of the skin care products to 3, 5 and 8 (A, B, C), with glycolic acid and triethanolamine. For 5 weeks the skin care products were applied on 20 healthy subjects' ventral forearm and the skin physical properties were measured. After 5 weeks, skin responses to the external...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 20, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: E. Kim, S. Kim, G. W. Nam, H. Lee, S. Moon, I. Chang Source Type: journals

Identification and determination butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane in the presence benzophenone-3 and ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate in suncare preparationEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
The protection of sun radiation is a problem on global level for all living organisms on Earth. The need of people for the overexposure to the UV radiation led human population towards finding novel ways of protection of this kind of radiation, in form of cosmetic preparations applied on the skin. So far, the high values of protection factors of preparations and total block preparations with sun protection factor of 50+ were achieved. Physical and chemical filters which absorb radiation are constituents of these preparations. European Union has set regulations as which substances and in what amounts could be used as UV abs...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 20, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. Imamović, M. [Scaron]ober, E. Bečić Source Type: journals

Comparative analysis of solar radiation-induced cellular damage between ex vivo porcine skin organ culture and in vitro reconstructed human epidermisEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
In this study, the phototoxic effects of a single acute SSR dose of 275 kJ m[minus]2 were evaluated in a validated RHE model (from SkinEthic), and were compared with those obtained from an ex vivo skin organ culture recently developed from domestic pig ears. The RHE model was well differentiated in vitro and released a significant level of the cytosolic enzymes lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) and extracellular signal-related kinase 2 (ERK2) protein in the culture medium 24 h after SSR exposure. The SSR-induced cytotoxicity was related to the formation of sunburn cells and the appearance of DNA damage (thymine dimer and DNA fra...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 20, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: D. Bacqueville, A. Mavon Source Type: journals

Determination of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic formulations by HPLCEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
A rapid HPLC method was developed for the assay of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic formulations. The validated method was applied for quantitative determination of these vitamins in simulated emulsion formulation. Samples were analysed directly on a RP-18 reverse phase column with UV detection at 222 nm. A mixture of methanol and isopropanol (25 : 75 v/v) was used as mobile phase. The retention time of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate were 3.0 min and 5.9 min, respectively. Recovery was between 95% and 104%. In addition, the excipients did not interfere in the analysis. The me...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 20, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. M. Almeida, J. M. P. Alves, D. C. S. Patto, C. R. R. C. Lima, J. S. Quenca-Guillen, M. I. R. M. Santoro, E. R. M. Kedor-Hackmann Source Type: journals

LEKTI-1 in sickness and in healthEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
The stratum corneum (SC) is a biosensor that mediates responses to a variety of exogenous insults through various signalling mechanisms, including the activation of SC serine proteases (SP) kallikrein cascade. The SPINK5 gene encodes an SP inhibitor, the lympho-epithelial-Kazal-type-1 inhibitor (LEKTI-1), which in turn will buffer the excess of SP cascade initiation, key in the maintenance of permeability barrier homeostasis. We demonstrate that LEKTI processing can occur within the SC after secretion from stratum granulosum keratinocytes at least partially by klk7, an SC-specific chymotryptic SP. Unlike the recently descr...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 15, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: T. Roelandt, B. Thys, C. Heughebaert, A. De Vroede, K. De Paepe, D. Roseeuw, B. Rombaut, J.-P. Hachem Source Type: journals

An evaluation of extracts of five traditional medicinal plants from Iran on the inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity and scavenging of free radicalsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
This study aimed to evaluate the free radical scavenging and inhibition properties of five medicinal plants, including Quercus infectoria Olive., Terminalia chebula Retz., Lavendula stoechas L., Mentha longifolia L., Rheum palmatum L., toward the activity of mushroom tyrosinase using l-tyrosine and l-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (l-DOPA) as the substrate. The methanol extracts of Q. infectoria and T. chebula showed strong radical scavenging effect in 2,2'-dipheny l-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay (IC50 = 15.3 and 82.2 [mu]g mL[minus]1 respectively). These plants also showed inhibitory effects against the activity of mushroom t...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 13, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: P. Khazaeli, R. Goldoozian, F. Sharififar Source Type: journals

Electrometric assessment of the effect of a zinc oxide paste in diaper dermatitisEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Diaper dermatitis affects nearly 50% of infants as well as some bed-ridden adults particularly in the elderly people. This condition is induced by irritation and maceration, and may be further exacerbated by Candida sp. colonization and infection. A key factor in the pathogenesis is the alteration in both the barrier function and the water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum. The purpose of this study was to assess the effects of an unmedicated zinc oxide[ndash]petrolatum paste and to observe for possible shielding and restoring effects on the water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum altered by diaper dermatitis. ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 13, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: E. Xhauflaire-Uhoda, F. Henry, C. Piérard-Franchimont, G. E. Piérard Source Type: journals

The level of polyaromatic hydrocarbons in kajal and surma of major Indian brandsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Kajal and surma are eye cosmetics extensively used in Indian subcontinent. Kajal is prepared by burning of vegetable oil and butter oil while surma by grinding of the stones. High performance liquid chromatography and gas chromatography[ndash]mass spectrometry instruments were used for quantification and confirmation of 16 polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). Significant concentration of PAH was found in all the samples examined. The median concentration of PAH ranged from 0.14 (lowest, anthracene) to 31.18 [mu]g g[minus]1 [dibenz(a,h)anthracene] in kajal sample and from not detectable concentration (naphthalene) to 197.47 [m...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 7, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: D. K. Patel, S. Prasad, R. Tripathi, J. R. Behari Source Type: journals

No. 6Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 121–127, 2008Makeup inhibits reduction of reactive oxygen scavenging enzyme activity induced by mental stressEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
In this study, we examined the relationship between mental stress and the activity of reactive oxygen scavenging enzymes such as superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT), and the effect of the mental stress reduction by makeup on the activity of reactive oxygen scavenging enzymes. In experiment 1, we measured the concentration of cortisol and activity of SOD in saliva after the addition of mental stress. In this result, the concentration of cortisol increased and the activity of SOD decreased significantly. As we examined the effect of makeup following the mental stress addition in experiment 2, the concentration of c...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: Takumi Tochio, Eriko Morichi, Osamu Hirose, Satoru Nakata, Junko Kuze Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

No. 5Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 110–120, 2008Design and development of an innovative hybrid powder based on a computer simulation and its application to base make up productsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
An innovative hybrid powder prepared through computer simulation allowed a new foundation to be developed having a fine, smooth texture that has never been achieved before. The optical structure/design of the powder was based on the results of measurements and analyses conductedon the optical characteristics of a baby's fine skin that is the envy of many women. In order to achieve the optimal optical characteristics, the Finite Differential Time Domain (FDTD) method to solve Maxwell's differential equation by difference and time domain was applied to the computer simulation method. For the synthesis of the hybrid powder ba...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: Katsuki Ogawa, Katsuhiko Yagi, Hideo Hata, Yoshimasa Miura, Koichi Nakamura, Sadaki Takata, Kazumi Fujima Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

No. 4Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 102–109, 2008A novel water-based sunscreen gel using a polymer – zinc oxide compositeEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Conventional sunscreen products generally must strike a compromise between efficacy and product feel; the hydrophobic ingredients that provide the sun protection generally impart an unpleasant, greasy feel and the greater the SPF rating, the worse the greasy feel. We tested an idea that a water-based sunscreen gel formulation containing inorganic UV absorbers would provide an effective way to address these problems. Our goal was to find a way to disperse inorganic sunscreen materials in water and to incorporate them into a water-based gel which would provide a more pleasant product feel. After extensive research we discove...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: Eiji Takahashi, Tetsuya Oikawa, Hirokazu Iyanagi, Kunihiko Mohri, Katsuhiko Nakamae Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

No. 3Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 94–101, 2008Effect of Birch (Betula platyphylla Sukatchev var. japonica Hara) sap on cultured human epidermal keratinocyte differentiationEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
In this study, we investigated the effects of birch (Betula platyphylla Sukatchev var. japonica Hara) sap on human skin. Birch sap induced epidermal keratinocyte differentiation properties in vitro. We assessed two epidermal differentiation agents. Filaggrin is a precursor protein of NMF, and involucrin is one of the precursor proteins of the cornified cell envelope (CE), which is related to normal barrier function. We have evaluated the production of these proteins where birch sap was applied to human normal keratinocytes. Birch sap not only increased mRNA expression of filaggrin and involucrin, but also accelerated these...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: Masahiro Moriyama, Eiji Naru, Yuko Misaki, Akinobu Hayashi Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

No. 2Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 89–93, 2008Treatment of dilated pores in the Ladies Clinic of the Department of Dermatology in Kinki University HospitalEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Recently, many Japanese females have turned their attention to dilated pores. In our clinic, the number of female patients with complaints of dilated pores have increased. For these patients, we have shown the way of skin care firstly. Then, we have selected laser and IPL (intense pulsed light) therapies. In this paper, I introduce treatments of dilated pores in the ladies clinic of the Dermatology Department in Kinki University Hospital. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: Natsuko Konishi Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

No. 1Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 81–88, 2008Noninvasive three-dimensional analysis of in vivo human skin using the next-generation optical coherence tomography (OCT), Fourier domain OCTEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Two-dimensional image by conventional optical coherence tomography (OCT) is very useful in dermatology. Recently, Fourier domain OCT (FD-OCT), which includes spectral domain OCT (SD-OCT) and swept source OCT (SS-OCT), has been developed as a new modality that produces fast and highly sensitive OCT images. These new OCTs enable real-time, video rate cross-sectional imaging and three-dimensional analysis. Moreover, polarization sensitive SD-OCT provides three dimensional information about collagen structure in the skin. Noninvasive in vivo three-dimensional analysis offers a new way to investigate the relationship between su...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: Shingo Sakai Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 151–156 (March/April 2008)Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiationEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
In this study, we performed experiments to find the patterns of morphological and biochemical changes in UV-light-induced damage to hair by scanning and transmission electron microscopy and hair protein analysis. In our results, morphological damage is significant in UVB-irradiated hairs, while biochemical changes are greater in UVA-irradiated hairs. J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 157[ndash]158 (March/April 2008) Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 41, No. 4, 2007* J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 159[ndash]161 (March/April 2008) International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 29, No 6, 2007* J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 163[ndash]164...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: S.-Y. Jeon, L. Q. Pi, W.-S. Lee Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 139–150 (March/April 2008)Enhanced depigmenting effects of N-glycosylation inhibitors delivered by pH-sensitive liposomes into HM3KO melanoma cellsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
Presented in part at the 23rd Congress of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC), Orlando, Florida, October 2004, and in Proceedings of the IFSCC as "Enhanced Pigment Lightening Effects of N-Glycosylation Inhibitors by the CHEMS Incorporated Nano-Carrier." Delivery activity of pH-sensitive 1,2-dioleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphoethanolamine (DOPE):cholesteryl hemisuccinate (CHEMS) liposomes was assessed as an in vitro intracellular carrier system to increase the bioavailability of depigmentation actives. N-glycosylation inhibitors have a glycosylation-inhibiting effect, which is useful for the ski...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. Y. Park, H. Choi, J. S. Hwang, J. Kim, I.-S. Chang Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 127–137 (March/April 2008)Why women use makeup: Implication of psychological traits in makeup functionsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
In conclusion, our study revealed that beyond the simple application of colorful products on the face, makeup has two major functional implications depending on specific psychological profiles of women. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. Korichi, D. Pelle-De-Queral, G. Gazano, A. Aubert Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 117–125 (March/April 2008)A dual mechanism of 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone inhibiting cellular melanogenesisEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
In previous studies, 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone (HMF) was shown to have potent antioxidative and antimelanogenic effects, suggesting its potential use as a depigmenting agent. The present study investigated its mechanism of action on murine melanoma B16F10 cells stimulated by theophylline, an activator of the cyclic AMP/protein kinase A signaling leading to tyrosinase gene expression. When the cells were stimulated with theophylline, there were dose-dependent increases in cellular tyrosinase protein content and melanin formation, as expected. HMF inhibited the theophylline-stimulated melanin formation as effectively...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: H. J. Kim, S. Mi an, Y. C. Boo Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 105–115 (March/April 2008) Influence of cellulose polymers on the semipermanent dyestuff process for yak hair: An analytical investigationEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of some cellulose polymers mixed in a semipermanent dyestuff on the dye uptake of yak hair fiber and color fading after repeated washing cycles. Two different classes of commercial polymers were tested: non-ionic and cationic. Formulations based on a mixture of HC and basic dyes, with different molecular sizes, were employed as representative dyestuffs. UV-Vis spectroscopy and colorimetric measurements were used to analyze the extracted dyes from the yak hair cuticle and cortex. The results obtained indicate that the presence of cationic polymers in the dye bath improves ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. Ballarin, S. Galli, M. Morigi Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

Coenzyme Q10 has anti-aging effects on human hairEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (1) 37[ndash]42 Ubiquinones are the most widespread and therefore best investigated bioquinones. Due to their hydrophobic isoprenoid side chain, ubiquinones can be solubilized in organic solvents or lipids but are insoluble in water. Using a specific emulsifier system it has been possible to deliver positive effects to biological systems also from aqueous formulations. Ubiquinone-50, also referred to as coenzyme Q10, is well known in cosmetic science and especially in skin care because of its antioxidant activity. It is found in the membranes of peroxisomes, lysosomes, vesicles, the endoplasmic re...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Giesen, T. Welß, E. S. zur Wiesche, V. Scheunemann, S. Gruedl, Y. Oezkabakcioglu, E. Poppe, Dirk Petersohn Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

A new water-in-powder technology: a novel structure for creating unique cosmetic productsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
In this study we describe the development of this type of cosmetic. We first focused on the hydrophilic/hydrophobic balance of the nano-sized powder surface. We looked at surface state of powders in the gas adsorption test and discovered functional powders that have an optimized balance of hydrorepellency and hydrophilicity due to fractal surface and free hydroxyl groups, respectively. Using this material we created a new powder technology that can encapsulate a large quantity of water in a stable structure. We also looked at how the powders encapsulated water by observing them with wet-SEM and how the encapsulated water i...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: K. Igarashi, K. Sagara, J. Egawa Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

Small proteoglycans in the skin: new targets in the fight against skin agingEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (1) 21[ndash]29 Proteoglycans take an important part in tissue homeostasis. In the skin, Proteoglycans are present in the extracellular matrix of dermis, particularly with lumican which plays an important role in dermal homeostasis. In the epidermis, several small proteoglycans such as the syndecans are synthesized and play an important role in keratinocyte activation. There is much data on the alteration during skin aging of the synthesis and structure of glycosaminoglycans and some proteoglycans but little information on small proteoglycans, in particular lumican and syndecan-1. We recently obse...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: G. Pauly, J.-L. Contet-Audonneau, P. Moussou, L. Danoux, V. Bardey, O. Freis, M. Sabadotto, Y. Wegrowski, F.-X. Maquart, A. Rathjens Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

Therapy makeup improves quality of life of patients with skin diseases – covering foundations created by integration of medical and beauty care for severe skin color problemsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (1) 11[ndash]18 In collaboration with medical institutions, we have been providing makeup guidance to people with facial skin color problems under the name >>therapy makeup«. The aim of therapy makeup is to reduce the anxiety and tension associated with the appearance of people with skin color problems and to provide psychological support, thereby helping them live more normal lives. Ota's nevus (blue birthmarks) and port-wine stain (red birthmarks) the leading causes of abnormal skin coloration. We have already developed covering foundations for Ota's nevus and port-wine stain using a light-filt...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: Y. Sagehashi, A. Ito, T. Ohtake, M. Nakamura, K. Yagi, K. Ogawa, T. Katsuyama, M. Yoshida, K. Oshiro, W. Aoki Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

'Luctor et Emergo'Email this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
IFSCC Magazine, 11 (2008) (1) 5[ndash]9 'Luctor et emergo' means to struggle, fight or wrestle in order to come up, win or just emerge and survive. It was adopted as a national motto by the Zeeland region in Holland to underline their daily battle with high tides. Indeed, this Latin motto effectively illustrates the struggle to make things work, that is to overcome all difficulties and hurdles and make everything flow smoothly at the end. Therefore, it applies appropriately to our subheading: 'all battles and bridges between the language of marketing and product formulation'. What are the main causes of misunderstanding or...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: L. Rigano Tags: Abstracts Source Type: journals

The International Journal of Cosmetic Science Publication PrizeEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
(Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Tags: Original Articles Source Type: journals

Arbutin determination in medicinal plants and creamsEmail this article to a colleague. Save this article to My Clippings. Discuss or comment on this article.
A simple flow injection (FI) manifold with spectrophotometric detection was fabricated and tested for arbutin determination. It is based on the measurement of a red-coloured product at 514 nm formed by the complexation reaction between arbutin and 4-aminoantipyrine (4-AP) in the presence of hexacyanoferrate (III) in an alkaline medium. On injecting 300 [mu]L standard solutions at various concentrations of arbutin into the FI system under optimum conditions, a linear calibration graph over the range of 1.0[ndash]30.0 [mu]g mL[minus]1 arbutin was established. It is expressed by the regression equation y = 0.2188 ± 0.0036x +...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 24, 2009 Category: Dermatology Authors: W. Thongchai, B. Liawruangrath, S. Liawruangrath Tags: Original Articles Source Type: journals