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A Raman spectroscopic investigation of the mechanism of the reduction in hair with thioglycerol and the accompanying disulphide conformational changes
International Journal of Cosmetic Science,Volume 40, Issue 1, Page 34-43, February 2018. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2017 Category: Dermatology Source Type: research

Disruption of human stratum corneum lipid structure by sodium dodecyl sulphate
International Journal of Cosmetic Science,Volume 40, Issue 1, Page 44-49, February 2018. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2017 Category: Dermatology Source Type: research

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International Journal of Cosmetic Science,Volume 40, Issue 1, Page 34-43, February 2018. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2017 Category: Dermatology Source Type: research

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International Journal of Cosmetic Science,Volume 40, Issue 1, Page 44-49, February 2018. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2017 Category: Dermatology Source Type: research

Disruption of human stratum corneum lipid structure by sodium dodecyl sulfate
ConclusionWe conclude that the disruption of the long lamellar structure plays a key role in the damage to the SC caused by detergents. To our knowledge, this is the first report to clarify the details of the disorganization of the intercellular lipid structure upon surfactant application. The knowledge obtained herein may allow the development of skin restoration methods and cleanser products that do not affect skin barrier functions.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Kaori Yanase, Ichiro Hatta Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Comparing touch senses of na ïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches. Which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties?
ConclusionTrained hair experts were confirmed as reliable representatives of a larger and naïve cohort, viewed as consumers. Hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels, with comparable descriptor rankings.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 16, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Anthony Galliano, Jean Yves Kempf, Maxime Fougere, Mara Applebaum, Leszek J. Wolfram, Howard Maibach Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Influence of UV filters on the texture profile and efficacy of a cosmetic formulation
ConclusionThe presence of sunscreens had a negative influence on immediate skin hydration and transepidermal water loss. On the other hand, it positively influenced parameters related to the physical properties of the multifunctional formulation and skin microrelief. Thus, we conclude that the influence of UV filters on the development of cosmetic formulations is an important factor to be considered since it can have either positive or negative effects on the efficacy of the product.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 2, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Marina Mendes Fossa Shirata, Patr ícia M. B.G.Maia Campos Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The worldwide diversity of scalp seborrhoea, as daily experienced by seven human ethnic groups
ConclusionThe kinetics and slopes of the re‐greasing process of the human scalp appear similar in all ethnic groups studied. Despite, striking quantitative differences are found between the 7 ethnic groups, resulting from different sebaceous production levels and scalp hygiene routines.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 2, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Florence Pouradier, Chen Liu, John Wares, Emilie Yokoyama, Catherine Collaudin, S égolène Panhard, Didier Saint‐Léger, Geneviève Loussouarn Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Understanding the effects of topography on skin moisturization measurement via two ‐dimensional capacitance imaging
ConclusionsWhile the two‐dimensional moisturization mapping systems can be used like a conventional electrical skin measurement device giving a simple overall reading of skin moisturization for the test area, their true value over existing electrical measures comes from its ability to isolate the skin itself from areas which are not in contact with the sensor. Résumé ObjectifLes méthodes qui évaluent l'hydratation de la peau grâce aux changements de ses propriétés électriques sont largement utilisées dans les industries de la recherche médicale et cosmétique. Cependant, les appareils eux‐mêmes donnent souv...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 6, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. M. Crowther Tags: Research Communication Source Type: research

Seasonally ‐induced alterations of some facial signs in Caucasian women. Impact of a daily application of a photo‐protective product
ConclusionThe alterations in some facial signs occurring in a 6‐month period between winter and summer are confirmed in Caucasian women, mostly related to structural (wrinkles) and vascular elements. Such changes appear alleviated or prevented by daily applications of a strong sun photo‐protective product.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Frederic Flament, Brigitte Gautier, Amelie ‐Marie Benize, Aude Charbonneau, Matthieu Cassier Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry ‐based proteomics
ConclusionClear examples of poor keratinocyte differentiation and associated metabolic and signalling pathways together with reduced SC maturation were identified in photodamaged facial SC. Corneocyte immaturity was evident with changes in CE proteins. Particularly, the reduction in 12R‐LOX is a novel finding in photodamaged skin and supports the lack of SC maturation. Moreover, filaggrinolysis was reduced, whereas corneodesmolysis was enhanced. From our results, we propose that there is a poor crosstalk between the keratinocyte endoplasmic reticulum UPR, proteasome network and autophagy machinery that possibly leads to ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Rainer Voegeli, Jean ‐Marc Monneuse, Rotraut Schoop, Beverley Summers, Anthony V. Rawlings Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Reinforcement of barrier function and scalp homeostasis by Senkyunolide A to fight against dandruff
ConclusionFor the first time SENKY has been shown to promote scalp homeostasis by reinforcing barrier and defence functions at both gene and protein levels. It reduces irritation and redness in promoting detoxification and anti‐inflammation pathways while controlling the niche of Malassezia. Applied on scalp, SENKY significantly reduces the formation of dandruff and soothes the scalp.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Philippe Mondon, Caroline Ringenbach, Emmanuel Doridot, Viviane Genet, Pascaline Criton Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Particulate matter (PM's) adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: Consequences for certain hair surface properties
ConclusionThis work indicates that a very high amount (e.g. billions) of PM's can be deposited on a full head of hair for subjects living in a severely aerially polluted environment. This process can be reproduced in vitro. In real life, pollution has a strong impact on hair surface properties, leading to a modification of the visual aspect (loss of shine) and the alteration of hair surface (increase of friction force). This work may be used to pave the way for prevention and cleansing studies in the field of hair care.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 27, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: Anthony Galliano, Chengda Ye, Fengjie Su, Chad Wang, Yin Wang, Chen Liu, Anupama Wagle, Myriam Guerin, Fr édéric Flament, Andrew Steel Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Fractionated aliphatic alcohols as synthetic precursors of ultra long ‐chain monoacylglycerols for cosmetic applications
ConclusionsPerformacol 425 can be a potential source of fatty alcohols to synthesize monoacylglycerols that can improve the occlusive behaviour of phospholipid‐structured emulsions. Résumé La Xérose entraine une peau anormalement sèche et écailleuse, elle est associée à une modification de la structure de la matrice lipidique dans le stratum corneum (SC), la couche la plus externe de la peau. Cet état de la peau peut entraîner une augmentation de la perte insensible en eau (TEWL). Étant donné que les acides gras à chaîne ultra longue ont un effet positif sur le maintien de la structure de la matrice lipidiq...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 26, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. P érez, B. S. Hansen, P. A. Bulsara, A. V. Rawlings, M. J. Clarke, Z. Guo Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Physical –Mechanical characterization of cosmetic formulations and correlation between instrumental measurements and sensorial properties
ConclusionThe raw materials strongly influenced the physical, texture and sensorial parameters. Finally, the UV filters showed a greater influence on the results of the formulations than the chicory root extract. In conclusion, the association of the mentioned methods allows the correct choice of ingredients and their combinations. Résumé ObjectifsLe bon choix des matières premières dans le développement de formulations cosmétiques est essentiel pour obtenir des produits de soins de la peau stables et agréables. Par conséquent, les analyses rhéologiques, de textures et sensorielles sont importantes pour comprendr...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 24, 2017 Category: Dermatology Authors: L. S. Calixto, P. M. B. G. Maia Campos Tags: Original Article Source Type: research