3‐(3,4,5‐Trimethoxybenzylidene)‐2,4‐pentanedione: Design of a Novel Photostabilizer with In‐vivo SPF Boosting Properties and Its Use in Developing Broad‐spectrum Sunscreen Formulations
ConclusionWe were able to design a very effective photostabilizer, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione (INCI name), based on benzylidenepentanedione chemistry. TMBP is very efficient in stabilizing avobenzone in formulated products, boosts in‐vivo SPF by >50% for organic and inorganic sunscreens and the formulations have critical wavelengths of >370 nm. These efficacious properties make it a promising additive for inclusion in broad‐spectrum photoprotective products.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 21, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Moses A. Ollengo, Parvesh Singh, Bice S. Martincigh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Comparison of the compact dry TC method with the standard method ISO 21149:2006 for determining aerobic colony counts in cosmetic emulsion
ConclusionThe results showed that the two compared methods “ Compact Dry TC” versus “Conventional pour plate” performed equally well. Demonstration was achieved that the Compact Dry TC method may constitute a useful alternative tool for rapid enumeration of aerobic mesophilic bacteria in cosmetic emulsions.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 18, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Segolene De Vaugelade, Magali Aime, Nicolas Farcette, Elodie Maurel, Thierry Lacour, Claire Thomas, Stephane Bouchonnet, Stephane Pirnay Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination and confirmation of isopropyl p‐toluenesulfonate in cosmetics by HPLC diode‐array detector method and GC‐MS
ConclusionsThe validation data indicated that this method was suitable for the quantitative analysis of IPTS in commercial cosmetics. This method is applicable for analyses of trace levels of IPTS in cosmetics and has the advantage of using only simple sample preparation steps.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 12, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Bonnie Yen Ping Tay, Shin Chyi Yung, Tick Yau Teoh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Inhibition of TRPV1 prevented skin irritancy induced by phenoxyethanol. A preliminary in vitro and in vivo study
ConclusionsDifferent to capsaicin, phenoxyethanol did not down regulate the expression of TRPV1 in HaCaT cells, suggesting that different regulatory mechanisms may exist for capsaicin and phenoxyethanol. Our experiments demonstrated that phenoxyethanol induces skin misperception and uncomfortable skin sensations like itching and burning comparable to capsaicin via activating TRPV1.The stimulation was inhibited by blocking TRPV1 with ID1609. The present data strengthened hitherto studies that TRPV1 plays a critical role in sensitive skin.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Jou...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 11, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Li Dong Guang, Du Hong Yang, Gerhard Schmaus, Imke Meyer, Wei Liu Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Apoptosis in follicles of individuals with female pattern hair loss is associated with perifollicular microinflammation
ConclusionsApoptosis was prominent in hair follicles from the FPHL group, as well as in miniaturized ones. Moreover, it was also correlated to the inflammatory infiltrate, which suggests that inflammation can lead to apoptosis and play a role in the pathogenesis of follicle miniaturization.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 10, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Paulo Müller Ramos, Gabrielli Brianezi, Ana Carolina Pereira Martins, Márcia Guimarães da Silva, Mariângela Esther Alencar Marques, Hélio Amante Miot Tags: Research Communication Source Type: research

New approach for a reliable in vitro sun protection factor method – Part II: Practical aspects and implementations
ConclusionCe second article conclue que cette nouvelle méthode de détermination In Vitro du FPS, basée sur 113 produits solaires issus de la Partie I et Partie II, est clairement adaptée à des fins de revendication du FPS quelque soit le type de produit, car elle est non invasive, moins coûteuse, plus pratique et plus fiable si elle est réalisée dans des conditions strictes. In vivo SPF vs. in vitro SPF for the tested samples. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 5, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Miksa, D. Lutz, C. Guy, E. Delamour Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

SPF and UVA ‐PF sunscreen evaluation: are there good correlations among results obtained in vivo, in vitro and in a theoretical Sunscreen Simulator? A real‐life exercise
ConclusionIn the present study, the use of BASF Sunscreen Simulator and in vitroUVA tests showed good correlations with in vivo results and could be considered as valuable resources in the development of sunscreens. Résumé ObjectifLes stratégies pour optimiser le développement des écrans solaires comprennent l'utilisation de simulateurs de protection solaire théoriques pour prédire le facteur de protection solaire (SPF) et UVA (UVA‐PF), et des mesures in vitro du UVA‐PF. Les buts de la présente étude étaient d’évaluer les corrélations entre (1) SPF et les résultats UVA‐PF obtenus dans un simulateur so...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 2, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. P. Santos Caetano, A. P. Abarca, M. Guerato, L. Guerra, S. Schalka, D. C. Perez Sim ão, R. Vila Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Preparation of alpha‐bisabolol and phenylethyl resorcinol/TiO2 hybrid composites for potential applications in cosmetics
ConclusionBy using this strategy, it could be possible to prepare not only inorganic UV filter but also hybrid organic/inorganic materials with multi‐functions and advantages which would be in a great demand for cosmetics applications.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 2, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Hui Jun Leong, Inseok Jang, Kwang‐Soo Hyun, Suk‐Kyun Jung, Geun‐Hye Hong, Hyeon‐Ah Jeong, Seong‐Geun Oh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Microbiological Risk Assessment for Personal Care Products
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 2, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Sara E. Stewart, Moira D. Parker, Alejandro Amézquita, Tyrone L. Pitt Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Evaluation of anti ‐microbial activities of ZnO, citric acid and a mixture of both against Propionibacterium acnes
ConclusionThe results of our study suggest that ZnO may not only be an anti‐microbial ingredient for the prevention of and treatment of acne. The results of our study suggest that ZnO may be an anti‐microbial ingredient for the prevention of and treatment of acne when mixed with CA. Résumé ObjectifDans cette étude, les activités antimicrobiennes de ZnO de trois tailles différentes de particules, de l'acide citrique (CA), et des mélanges de ZnO et de CA ont été confirmées contre Propionibacterium acnes. MethodesLe ZnO avec la plus petite dimension des particules a montré une activité antimicrobienne relative...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 28, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. Y. Bae, S. N. Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Evaluation of anti‐microbial activities of ZnO, citric acid and a mixture of both against Propionibacterium acnes
ConclusionThe results of our study suggest that ZnO may not only be an anti‐microbial ingredient for the prevention of and treatment of acne. The results of our study suggest that ZnO may be an anti‐microbial ingredient for the prevention of and treatment of acne when mixed with CA. Résumé ObjectifDans cette étude, les activités antimicrobiennes de ZnO de trois tailles différentes de particules, de l'acide citrique (CA), et des mélanges de ZnO et de CA ont été confirmées contre Propionibacterium acnes. MethodesLe ZnO avec la plus petite dimension des particules a montré une activité antimicrobienne relative...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 28, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. Y. Bae, S. N. Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Variation in the activities of late stage filaggrin processing enzymes, calpain ‐1 and bleomycin hydrolase, together with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid levels, corneocyte phenotypes and plasmin activities in non‐sun‐exposed and sun‐exposed facial stratum corneum of different ethnicities
ConclusionVariation in PCA levels has been found for different ethnic groups in this study (AA > BA > C subjects). The values in the AA subjects are surprising as one might expect that the lack of pigmentation, and thereby increased photodamage, might lead to lower levels. Increased BH, but not C‐1 activity, was observed in the AA subjects indicating that BH is associated with PCA production to a greater extent. Surprisingly, corneocyte maturation is still impaired with elevated PCA levels in AA subjects. The higher levels of plasmin and BH activities on the cheeks, especially for AA and C subjects, suggest that th...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 25, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: N. Raj, R. Voegeli, A. V. Rawlings, B. Summers, M. R. Munday, M. E. Lane Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A mild hand cleanser, alkyl ether sulphate supplemented with alkyl ether carboxylic acid and alkyl glucoside, improves eczema on the hand and prevents the growth of Staphylococcus aureus on the skin surface
ConclusionThese results suggest that not only antimicrobial activity but also the mildness, which minimizes cutaneous effects, are important for hand cleansers to prevent the growth of S. aureus. The cleanser formulated with AES, AEC and AG containing IPMP is mild and is effective to promote hand hygiene. Résumé ObjectifSe laver les mains à l'aide de nettoyants avec des matériaux antiseptiques est la méthode la plus populaire pour l'hygiène des mains, ce qui contribue à maintenir la santé par la prévention des intoxications alimentaires et les infections bactériennes. Cependant, le lavage répété des mains te...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 25, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Fukui, T. Morikawa, M. Hirahara, Y. Terada, M. Shimizu, K. Takeuchi, Y. Takagi Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

What is a Caucasian ‘fine’ hair? Comparing instrumental measurements, self‐perceptions and assessments from hair experts
ConclusionsThis study has shown close agreement between sensorial and instrumental findings, and also illustrates how the women participating can subtly and adequately describe their own hair. It is important to note that the words ‘fine hair’ describes a lot more than just physically thin hair fibres. Ageing is an additional factor that clearly impacts certain parameters associated with ‘fine hair’ among the volunteers. Résumé ObjectifDe déterminer les différents facteurs qui gouvernent les termes ‘cheveux fins’ souvent employé par les femmes Caucasiennes. MéthodesTrois approches complémentaires furent...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 25, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Bouabbache, A. Galliano, P. Littaye, M. Leportier, F. Pouradier, E. Gillot, S. Panhard, G. Loussouarn Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Microneedle ‐mediated intradermal delivery of epigallocatechin‐3‐gallate
ConclusionAddition of glutathione in EGCG formulations significantly reduces its photodegradation. Skin microporation with maltose microneedles facilitates the penetration of EGCG across the stratum corneum into the deeper skin layers – viable epidermis and dermis. Résumé ObjectifEpigallocatéchine‐3‐gallate (EGCG) est le flavanol physiologiquement le plus actif et abondant, ce qui représente 50–80% des catéchines du thé vert. C'est un agent anti‐inflammatoire, antioxydant, chimiopréventif et photoprotecteur de la peau. Cependant, sa sensibilité à la lumière et sa faible perméabilité à travers la cou...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 21, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. Puri, H. X. Nguyen, A. K. Banga Tags: Original Article Source Type: research