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Cryptomphalus aspersa mollusc eggs extract promotes migration and prevents cutaneous ageing in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts in vitro
ConclusionIFC‐CAF has regenerative properties and protects against ageing factors being, therefore, a potential therapeutic agent for treating or preventing skin ageing. Résumé Arriere FondLa recherche de substances qui réduisent le vieillissement cutané a augmenté au cours des dernières années. Des études précédentes ont décrit les propriétés régénératrices de la sécrétion du mollusque Cryptomphalus aspersa (C. aspersa) lorsqu'il est appliqué par voie topique. ObjectifNous évaluons les effets in vitro d'un nouveau produit dérivé des oeufs de C. aspersa, IFC‐CAF, sur la prolifération cellulair...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 27, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. Espada, M. Matabuena, N. Salazar, S. Lucena, O. Kourani, E. Carrasco, M. Calvo, C. Rodríguez, E. Reyes, S. González, A. Juarranz Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Anti‐inflammatory and anti‐bacterial properties of tetramethylhexadecenyl succinyl cysteine (TSC): a skin‐protecting cosmetic functional ingredient
ConclusionsTetramethylhexadecenyl succinyl cysteine represents a novel cosmetic functional ingredient that provides a dual modulating benefit of skin protection to individuals by reducing inflammation in keratinocytes, endothelial and mononuclear cell types and S. pyogenes counts. Résumé ContexteLa peau est la première ligne de défense contre l'exposition aux microbes, les insultes, l'environnement physique et chimique. En mobilisant une réponse protectrice, plusieurs types différents de cellules situées dans notre peau sécrètent et/ou répondent à des cytokines pro‐inflammatoires ainsi assurant l'homéostasi...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 22, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. R. Fernandéz, K. Rouzard, M. Voronkov, K. L. Huber, J. B. Stock, M. Stock, J. S. Gordon, E. Pérez Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Nanometre‐scale investigations by atomic force microscopy into the effect of different treatments on the surface structure of hair
ConclusionAtomic force microscopy and the related techniques we have employed in a forensic approach is able to distinguish between different hair care products on the basis of the deposits they leave behind. This opens up the capability of further analysis tools to complement already existing techniques. Résumé ObjectifPour étudier l'effet de différents régimes de lavage sur la surface des cheveux humains à l’échelle du nanomètre ‐ comparable à la taille des dépôts typiques laissés par des produits commerciaux. MethodesMicroscopie à force atomique (AFM) et les techniques connexes. ResultatsOn peut voir d...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 22, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Durkan, N. Wang Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Preliminary one month stability screening of cosmetic multiple emulsions (W/O/W) prepared using cetyl dimethicone copolyol and Polysorbate 80
ConclusionAs a conclusion of this work, a stable multiple emulsion with 13.6% paraffin oil, 2.4% cetyl dimethicone copolyol and 0.8% polysorbate 80 can be formulated and can be further studied for any active ingredient for cosmetic purposes.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 16, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Hira Khan, Akhtar Naveed, Tariq Mahmood, Adnan Jameel, Sabeeh Mohsin Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Analysing the movement of a hair swatch using video and image analysis: A promising technique for exploring the dynamic properties of hair
In conclusion, this method is complementary to the ones used generally to characterize global visual perceptions (color, styling, shine). This dynamic component not only opens doors to new qualitative evaluations, linked with sensorial experts and consumers perceptions, but also to new quantitative parameters. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 9, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Anthony Galliano, Mélanie Lheur, Roberto Santoprete Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Psychological stress has the potential to cause a decline in the epidermal permeability barrier function of the horny layer
ConclusionsThe results indicate the possibility that psychological stress causes a decline in EPBF and deterioration in barrier disruption and recovery. Furthermore, it implies a relationship between psychological stress and the exacerbation or protracted healing of skin disease.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 9, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Seiya Fukuda, Shunsuke Baba, Toshihide Akasaka Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Towards an understanding of bacterial metabolites prodigiosin and violacein and their potential for use in commercial sunscreens
ConclusionThe bacterial pigments prodigiosin and violacein have antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, and were able to increase the SPF of commercial sunscreens as well as the extracts of the two plant species tested and so have potential value as ingredients for a new product‐range of (and represent a new paradigm for) sunscreens that utilise substances of biological origin. We discussed the biotechnological potential of these bacterial metabolites for use in commercial sunscreens, and the need for studies of mammalian cells to determine safety.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: In...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Rahul K. Suryawanshi, Chandrashekhar D. Patil, Hemant P. Borase, Chandrakant P. Narkhede, Andrew Stevenson, John E. Hallsworth, Satish V. Patil Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A study on seasonal variation of skin parameters in Korean males
ConclusionThe skin surface pH, TEWL, sebum content, hydration, elasticity, wrinkles, skin pore, and skin sensitivity vary with seasons and body regions in Korean men.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: E. J. Song, J. A. Lee, J. J. Park, H. J. Kim, N. S. Kim, K. S. Byun, G. S. Choi, T. K. Moon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Enzymatically Interestrified Fats Based On Mutton Tallow And Walnut Oil Suitable For Cosmetic Emulsions
ConclusionsThe work has demonstrated that interesterification of a mutton tallow and walnut oil blend resulted in new fats with very interesting characteristics of triacylglycerols that are not present in the environment. The results of the present work indicate the possibility of application of fats with the largest quantity of MAGs and DAGs as a fat base of emulsions in the cosmetic industries. The hypothesis assumed in this work of producing additional quantities of MAGs and DAGs (in the process of enzymatic interesterification) responsible for the stability of the system was confirmed. It should be pointed out that the...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: M Kowalska, M Mendrycka, A Zbikowska, S Stawarz Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Predictive Microbiology For Cosmetics Based On Physicals, Chemicals And Concentration Parameters
ConclusionFollowing the analysis of the different concentration, a correlation between glycerin and ethanol that directly influence microbiological protection of cosmetics products has been established. Indeed, by controlling ethanol, pH and glycerin, many products may be exempted from the challenge test.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Senda Ghalleb, Segolene De Vaugelade, Odile Sella, Marc Lavarde, Christine Mielcarek, Anne‐Marie Pense‐Lheritier, Stephane Pirnay Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Improvement of polyphenol properties upon glucosylation in a UV‐induced skin cell ageing model
ConclusionOur results demonstrated that enzymatic glucosylation of CA and EGCG led to an improved or preserved antioxidant activity in a cellular model of UV‐induced skin ageing, despite the decrease in instantaneous antioxidant properties observed for Glc‐CA. Glc‐EGCG is specifically more active on keratinocytes, suggesting a specific targeting. Such glucosylated polyphenols displaying improved physicochemical and biological properties should be better candidates than natural ones for use in food additives and cosmetics. Résumé ObjectifsLes polyphénols sont des molécules ayant un fort pouvoir antioxydant permet...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 29, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Nadim, D. Auriol, N. Lamerant‐FayeL, F. Lefèvre, L. Dubanet, G. Redziniak, C. Kieda, C. Grillon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Cryptomphalus aspersa mollusk eggs extract promotes migration and prevents cutaneous aging in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts in vitro
ConclusionIFC‐CAF has regenerative properties and protects against aging factors being a potential therapeutic agent for treating or preventing skin aging.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 25, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. Espada, M. Matabuena, N. Salazar, S. Lucena, O. Kourani, E Carrasco, M Calvo, C Rodríguez, E. Reyes, S. González, A. Juarranz Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Optimization of cosmetic preservation: water activity reduction
ConclusionFabrication process as well as humectants concentration were shown to influence water activity. The hydroxyl group positions as well as the presence of an alkyl group on the glycol carbon chain impacted water binding as suggested by DFT calculation. Reducing aw improved the preservation of a cosmetic cream, inhibiting or slowing down the growth of bacteria and fungi.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 25, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Audrey Kerdudo, Fabien Fontaine‐Vive, Alexandre Dingas, Chrystel Faure, Xavier Fernandez Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Photoprotection in changing times – UV filter efficacy and safety, sensitization processes and regulatory aspects
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 25, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Constanze Stiefel, Wolfgang Schwack Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Anti‐inflammatory and Anti‐Bacterial Properties of Tetramethylhexadecenyl Succinoyl Cysteine (TSC): A Skin Protecting Cosmetic Functional Ingredient
ConclusionsTSC represents a novel cosmetic functional ingredient that provides a dual modulating benefit of skin protection to individuals by reducing inflammation in keratinocytes, endothelial and mononuclear cell types and S. pyogenes counts.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 25, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: José R. Fernandéz, Karl Rouzard, Michael Voronkov, Kristen L. Huber, Jeffry B. Stock, Maxwell Stock, Joel S. Gordon, Eduardo Pérez Tags: Research Communication Source Type: research

Preparation and Characterization of W/O Microemulsion for Removal of Oily Make‐up Cosmetics
ConclusionThese results suggest that the prepared W/O microemulsions can be utilized as cleaning agents for efficient removal of oily make‐up cosmetics.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Eun Jong Kim, Bong Ju Kong, Soon Sik Kwon, Ha Na Jang, Soo Nam Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

From experimental design to functional gene networks: DNA microarray contribution to skin ageing research
Résumé Il ne fait aucun doute que la technologie de puces à ADN a contribué, via l'identification de centaines de gènes, à accroître nos connaissances dans de nombreux processus, incluant le vieillissement. Cependant, intégrer des gènes dans des réseaux fonctionnels, plutôt que de définir des termes décrivant des caractéristiques génériques, reste un défi important. La fonction d'un gène donné qui peut varier selon le contexte et les mécanismes de rétrocontrôle complexifient grandement l'interprétation des données de puces. De plus, il est difficile de déterminer si les modifications d'expression d...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: P. D. Benech, A. Patatian Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

The physical chemistry of the stratum corneum lipids
This article summarizes the current knowledge of the composition, self‐assembly, and molecular organization of the SC lipids, reviews the evidence connecting these parameters and the barrier properties of human skin, and outlines the immediate issues in the field of SC lipid research. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 17, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Mila Boncheva Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Nanometer‐Scale Investigations By Atomic Force Microscopy Into The Effect Of Different Treatments On The Surface Structure Of Hair
ConclusionAtomic force microscopy and the related techniques we have employed in a forensic approach is able to distinguish between different hair care products on the basis of the deposits they leave behind. This opens up the capability of further analysis tools to complement already existing techniques.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 15, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Durkan, N. Wang Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Physical Characterization and In Vitro Skin Permeation of Solid Lipid Nanoparticles for Transdermal Delivery of Quercetin
ConclusionThe results suggest that QSLN‐2, prepared with a surfactant content of 2%, could be used as useful skin delivery system for transdermal delivery of hydrophobic antioxidants such as quercetin.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 15, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Saet Byeol Han, Soon Sik Kwon, Yoo Min Jeong, Eun Ryeong Yu, Soo Nam Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Editorial
(Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 11, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Karl Lintner, Majella Lane Tags: Editorial Source Type: research

The anti‐inflammatory effect of cherry blossom extract (Prunus yedoensis) used in soothing skincare product
ConclusionCherry blossom extract shows good anti‐inflammatory effect in vitro and in vivo and represents a promising functional ingredient in soothing skincare product by reducing skin inflammation. Résumé ContextePlusieurs chercheurs ont indiqué que les cerisiers en fleurs pourraient fournir des matériaux bioactifs de grande valeur. Cependant, il y avait peu de rapports concernant l'effet anti‐inflammatoire des cerisiers en fleurs. ObjectifLa présente enquête a été réalisée pour étudier l'effet anti‐inflammatoire de l'extrait de fleur de cerisier (CBE), qui a été utilisé comme un ingrédient apaisant ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 4, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Y. Q. Zhang, L. Guan, Z. Y. Zhong, M. Chang, D. K. Zhang, H. Li, W. Lai Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Changes in Chinese hair growth along a full year
ConclusionData confirm that Chinese hairs present characteristics of the most developed and fast growing terminal fibres, as compared to other non‐Asian ethnics. Résumé ObjectifAfin de confirmer l'existence d'un effet de saisonnalité au sein des cycles de croissance et de chute des cheveux chez des sujets Chinois, les différents paramètres de ces cycles sur une même région du vertex, ont été observés chaque mois durant une année entière. Methodesles paramètres de croissance des cheveux de 41 volontaires Chinois (femmes et hommes), non‐alopéciques, ont été déterminés chaque mois au long d'une année e...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 3, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Liu, J. Yang, L. Qu, M. Gu, Y. Liu, J. Gao, C. Collaudin, G. Loussouarn Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Characterization of a human epidermis model reconstructed from hair follicle keratinocytes and comparison with two commercially models and native skin
ConclusionORS cell‐based reconstructed epidermis is a valid and reproducible model for human epidermis and it may be used to evaluate the effects of active substances and cosmetic formulations. Résumé ObjectifLes cellules ORS de la gaine épithéliale externe des follicules pileux humains sont une source facilement disponible, non invasive de kératinocytes pour la reconstruction des épidermes. L'objectif de la présente étude est de caractériser un modèle d'épiderme reconstitué réalisé à partir des cellules ORS (modèle dérivé d'ORS), et d'évaluer sa reproductibilité, par rapport à la peau humaine nativ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 26, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. Guiraud, H. Hernandez‐Pigeon, I. Ceruti, S. Mas, Y. Palvadeau, C. Saint‐Martory, N. Castex‐Rizzi, H. Duplan, S. Bessou‐Touya Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Formaldehyde replacement with glyoxylic acid in semipermanent hair straightening: a new and multidisciplinary investigation
ConclusionThis investigation revealed the role played by the electrophilicity of the carbonyl on the straightener agent and of the temperature, closely related to the dehydration process. Raman and IR studies indicated the involvement of imine bonds and the occurrence of a sequence of conformational modifications during the straightening procedure. SEM analyses showed the effectiveness of the treatment at the cuticular level. Résumé ObjectifLe formaldéhyde est un agent défrisant semi‐permanent pour cheveux efficace et populaire, défriser mais les graves conséquences de son utilisation sur la santé de l'homme dues...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 11, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Boga, P. Taddei, G. Micheletti, F. Ascari, B. Ballarin, M. Morigi, S. Galli Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Improvement of polyphenol properties upon glucosylation in a UV‐induced skin cell aging model
ConclusionOur results demonstrated that enzymatic glucosylation of CA and EGCG led to an improved or preserved antioxidant activity in a cellular model of UV‐induced skin aging, despite the decrease in instantaneous antioxidant properties observed for Glc‐CA. Glc‐EGCG is specifically more active on keratinocytes, suggesting a specific targeting. Such glucosylated polyphenols displaying improved physicochemical and biological properties should be better candidates than natural ones for use in food additives and cosmetics.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: M Nadim, D Auriol, N Lamerant‐FayeL, F Lefèvre, L Dubanet, G Redziniak, C Kieda, C Grillon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Phytolatex synthesized gold nanoparticles as novel agent to enhance sun protection factor of commercial sunscreens
ConclusionPhytolatex synthesized gold nanoparticle is novel agent to enhance sun protection factor of commercial sunscreens. Gold nanoparticles aggregation in commercial sunscreen was the main factor behind SPF enhancement. Present study showed that gold nanoparticles are potent alternative to traditionally used hazardous titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreen.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Hemant P. Borase, Chandrashekhar D. Patil, Rahul B. Salunkhe, Rahul K. Suryawanshi, Bipinchandra K. Salunke, Satish V. Patil Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Reactivity of cosmetic UV filters towards skin proteins: Model studies with Boc‐lysine, Boc‐Gly‐Phe‐Gly‐Lys‐OH, BSA and gelatin
ConclusionEspecially the UV absorbers BM‐DBM, OCR, and BP‐3, which are seen as common allergens or photoallergens, showed a high reactivity towards the different skin protein models. As the formation of protein adducts is recognized as important key element in the induction of skin sensitization, the results of this study can contribute to a better understanding of the underlying chemical mechanisms of such reactions.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Constanze Stiefel, Wolfgang Schwack Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Enhanced Skin Delivery of Liquiritigenin and Liquiritin‐loaded Liposome‐in‐Hydrogel Complex System
ConclusionLiposome‐in‐hydrogel system can be a potential drug delivery system for topical delivery of antioxidants such as licorice flavonoids to construct anitoxidative skin barrier.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 31, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Su Ji Kim, Soon Sik Kwon, So Ha Jeon, Eun Ryeong Yu, Soo Nam Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Exogenous connective tissue growth factor preserves the hair‐inductive ability of human dermal papilla cells
ConclusionLe facteur de croissance du tissu conjonctif exogène peut préserver la capacité inductive innée des cellules de papilles dermiques humaines adultes dans des cultures in vitro, qui est commandée par l'intermédiaire du Wnt, BMP et des voies de signalisation TGF‐ β. Connective tissue growth factor influences human dermal papilla cells' hair inductive ability through several signaling pathways. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 30, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: P. Zhang, S. K. Ravuri, J. Wang, K. G. Marra, R. E. Kling, J. Chai Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Coexistence effect of UVA absorbers to increase their solubility and stability of supersaturation
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 28, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Mayu Endo, Tsubasa Mukawa, Nobumasa Sato, Daisuke Maezawa, Yutaka Ohtsu, Akihiro Kuroda, Misaki Wakabayashi, Kouichi Asakura Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Evaluation of Soy‐Based Surface Active Copolymers as Surfactant Ingredients in Model Shampoo Formulations
ConclusionSBPS‐based formulations meet major requirements of multifunctional shampoos ‐ mild detergency, foaming, good conditioning, and aesthetic appeal, which are comparable to commercially available shampoos.In addition, examination of SBPS/SLS mixtures in model shampoos showed that the presence of the SBPS enables the concentration of SLS to be significantly reduced without sacrificing shampoo performance.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 28, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Andriy Popadyuk, Harjyoti Kalita, Bret J. Chisholm, Andriy Voronov Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

From experimental design to functional gene networks: DNA microarray contribution to skin aging research
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 28, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Philippe D. Benech, Angela Patatian Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Monthly changes in hair growth parameters of Chinese subjects, observed along a full year
ConclusionData confirm that Chinese hairs present characteristics of the most developed and fast growing terminal fibres, as compared to other non Asian ethnics.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 26, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Chen Liu, Jessica Yang, Lily Qu, Maohui Gu, Yuanyuan Liu, Jun Gao, Catherine Collaudin, Geneviève Loussouarn Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The anti‐inflammatory effect of cherry blossom extract (Prunus yedoensis) used in soothing skin care product
ConclusionCBE shows good anti‐inflammatory effect in vitro and in vivo, and represents a promising functional ingredient in soothing skin care product by reducing skin inflammation.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 26, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Y.Q. Zhang, L. Guan, Z.Y. Zhong, M. Chang, D.K. Zhang, H. Li, W. Lai Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Characterisation of a human epidermis model reconstructed from hair follicle keratinocytes and comparison with two commercially models and native skin
ConclusionORS cell‐based reconstructed epidermis is a valid and reproducible model for human epidermis and it may be used to evaluate the effects of active substances and cosmetic formulations.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 26, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Béatrice Guiraud, Hélène Hernandez‐Pigeon, Isabelle Ceruti, Sandy Mas, Yannick Palvadeau, Christine Saint‐Martory, Nathalie Castex‐Rizzi, Hélène Duplan, Sandrine Bessou‐Touya Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Factors Affecting Formulation Characteristics and Stability of Ascorbic Acid in Water‐in‐Oil Creams
ConclusionAmong all the formulations, the creams containing castor oil as emollient and glycerin as humectant showed minimum degradation as compared to the creams containing other excipients. FTIR studies indicated that there is no significant interaction between AA and CT in physical mixtures.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 26, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Muhammad Ali Sheraz, Marium Fatima Khan, Sofia Ahmed, Sadia Hafeez Kazi, Saif ur Rehman Khattak, Iqbal Ahmad Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Sun protection and hydration of stratum corneum: a study by 2‐D differential method
ConclusionWe modelled sunscreens on different substrates using electromagnetic simulations. To compare these results with measurements, we have to carefully hydrate or dehydrate the SC: the simulations did not take into account modifications of the surface (water on the surface for example) or any change in the characteristics of the stratum corneum other than the modification of the corneocytes thickness. Résumé ObjectifLa stratum corneum est la couche la plus externe de la peau. Ses composants et sa morphologie (comme la taille de ses cellules) jouent un rôle dans la protection solaire. Il a ainsi été noté que l'h...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 25, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Lécureux, C. Deumié, S. Enoch Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Insulin–transferrin–selenium as an alternative to foetal serum for epidermal equivalents
ConclusionWe show that culture using the ITS medium appears as a viable replacement for FBS in the construction of epidermal equivalents, opening the way to signal transduction studies. Résumé ObjectifLes modèles de peaux reconstruites sont des outils performants pour l'étude des mécanismes mis en jeu au cours du développement, du vieillissement et de pathologies. Ces modèles ont connu diverses adaptations et perfectionnements avec notamment l'implémentation de plusieurs types cellulaires. Pour répondre aux contraintes du développement d'une peau reconstruite in vitro, le milieu de culture nécessite d'être ré...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 25, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Mainzer, C. Barrichello, R. Debret, N. Remoué, D. Sigaudo‐Roussel, P. Sommer Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Exogenous Connective Tissue Growth Factor Preserves the Hair Inductive Ability of Human Dermal Papilla Cells
ConclusionExogenous connective tissue growth factor can preserve the innate hair‐inductive ability of adult human dermal papilla cells in vitro cultures, which is controlled through the Wnt, BMP and TGF‐β signaling pathways.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 13, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Peipei Zhang, Sudheer K. Ravuri, Jiping Wang, Kacey G. Marra, Russell E. Kling, Jiake Chai Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

An efficient and rapid thin‐layer chromatography method for the identification of 32 dye substances in hair dye products
ConclusionThe developed TLC method is simple, rapid, reliable and can be finely used for identification of dye substances in hair dye products. Résumé ObjectifLes substances de teinture sont certainement dangereux pour les humains. Elles sont parmi les ingrédients cosmétiques les plus largement discutées et réglementées. Dans cette étude, une méthode de chromatographie en couche mince (CCM) est développée pour l'identification de 32 substances colorantes dans des produits de teinture pour cheveux. MéthodesCette méthode CCM implique 4 solvants de développement et deux sprays indicateurs. Les 32 substances de ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 10, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: H. J. Zhu, Y. W. Yang, Y. Zhu Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Formaldehyde replacement with glyoxylic acid in semi‐permanent hair straightening: a new and multidisciplinary investigation
ConclusionThis investigation revealed the role played by the electrophilicity of the carbonyl on the straightener agent and of the temperature, closely related to the dehydration process. Raman and IR studies indicated the involvement of imine bonds and the occurrence of a sequence of conformational modifications during the straightening procedure. SEM analyses showed the effectiveness of the treatment at the cuticular level.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Carla Boga, Paola Taddei, Gabriele Micheletti, Federico Ascari, Barbara Ballarin, Marco Morigi, Samanda Galli Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination of melanin types and relative concentrations: an observational study using a non‐invasive inverse skin reflectance analysis
ConclusionThe proposed pigmentation analysis system is able to determine melanin types and their relative concentrations. It has the potential to assess the efficacy of the skin‐whitening and pigmentation treatments objectively in a non‐invasive manner.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Ahmad Fadzil M Hani, Roshidah Baba, Norashikin Shamsuddin, Hermawan Nugroho Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Structural changes in dermal collagen and oxidative stress levels in the skin of Japanese overweight males
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Masaru Matsumoto, Ai Ibuki, Takeo Minematsu, Junko Sugama, Motoko Horii, Kazuhiro Ogai, Tomoe Nishizawa, Misako Dai, Aya Sato, Yumiko Fujimoto, Mayumi Okuwa, Gojiro Nakagami, Toshio Nakatani, Hiromi Sanada Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Ultrasound‐assisted extraction of phenolic compounds from Phyllanthus emblica L. and evaluation of antioxidant activities
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 29, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Chia‐Chun Tsai, Chun‐Hsu Chou, Yu‐Chen Liu, Chang‐Wei Hsieh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Transungual delivery: Deliberations and Creeds
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 28, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Purva Thatai, Bharti Sapra Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Sun protection and hydration of stratum corneum: a study by 2D differential method
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 28, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Marie Lécureux, Carole Deumié, Stefan Enoch Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Insulin‐transferrin‐selenium as an alternative to foetal serum for epidermal equivalents.
ConclusionWe show that culture using the ITS medium appears as a viable replacement for FBS in the construction of epidermal equivalents, opening the way to signal transduction studies.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 23, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Mainzer, C. Barrichello, R. Debret, N. Remoué, D. Sigaudo‐Roussel, P. Sommer Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Evaluation of the content – containing interaction in cosmetic products using gas chromatography–mass spectrometry
ConclusionLa plastique est le matériel le plus utilisé en cosmétique de part sa diversité de forme et de couleur. La méthode en chromatographie gazeuse‐spectrométrie de masse a été validée et peut être utilisée pour l’évaluation de l'interaction contenu‐contenant des produits cosmétiques. Sur l'ensemble des tests réalisés sur 79 produits en contact avec 6 types d'emballage, le DEHP a été retrouvé à 90% pour les déodorants sticks et à 83% pour les parfums. Aucun autre contaminant n'a été retrouvé. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 17, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Thomas, D. Siong, S. Pirnay Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Enterobacter gergoviae adaptation to preservatives commonly used in cosmetic industry
ConclusionMost of the cosmetic formulations are contaminated with unrelated E. gergoviae strains. Recommended concentrations are inefficient to limit proliferation and control adaptability to this bacterium in cosmetics products. Efflux mechanisms should be involved in Kathon cg and Irgasan adaptation.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 15, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Marina Périamé, Jean‐Marie Pagès, Anne Davin‐Regli Tags: Original Article Source Type: research