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The effects of narrowbands of visible light upon some skin disorders: a review
Abstract This review article focuses on clinical studies published in the fields of (i) photorejuvenation and anti‐ageing, (ii) oily or acne‐prone skin and related imperfections, (iii) skin pigmentation and lightening, (iv) dandruff and other Malassezia‐related skin disorders and (v) prevention and reversal of hair loss using non‐thermal, non‐ablative devices (principally light‐emitting diodes). It mainly focuses on clinical proof of performance and also on in vitro studies that support the clinical findings. The mode of action of narrowbands of visible light upon the skin is only briefly discussed since their ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 12, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. J. Greaves Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Effects of Thermal Treatment on human hair fibers
ConclusionTunisian women hair presented good mechanical properties as shown by a greater breaking stress and higher breaking strain. Both curl type and age are important factors to consider when evaluating the behavior of hairThis article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 10, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Echhida Sayahi, Touafik Harizi, Slah Msahli, Faouzi Sakli Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Analysis of salicylic acid, arbutin and corticosteroids, in skin whitening creams available in pakistan using chromatographic techniques
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 8, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Aima Shams, Islam Ullah Khan, Haffsah Iqbal Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Anthocyanin contents in the seed coat of black soya bean and their anti‐human tyrosinase activity and antioxidative activity
ConclusionAntioxidants in SCBS also possess anti‐human and anti‐mushroom tyrosinase activities. Résumé ObjectifL'enveloppe de la graine du soja noir (SCBS) contient une quantité élevée des anthocyanes et possèdent des activités antioxydantes et anti‐tyrosinase de champignon. Les objectifs de cette étude étaient d'analyser les anthocyanes dans SCBS avec différents solvants et de trouver la relation entre le profil des anthocyanes avec les activités anti‐tyrosinase humaine et champignon. MéthodesSCBS a été extrait à l'eau chaude, à l'éthanol à 50 et 80%, à l'acétone 50 et 80% et à l' d'acétone ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 3, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: J.‐K. Jhan, Y.‐C. Chung, G.‐H. Chen, C.‐H. Chang, Y.‐C. Lu, C.‐K. Hsu Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Increased level of tumor necrosis factor‐alpha (TNF‐α) on the skin of Japanese obese males: measured by quantitative skin blotting
ConclusionWe found that high levels of TNF‐α were detected on the skin of Japanese obese males, which implied the higher TNF‐α in the skin. The elevation of skin TNF‐α may be one factor related to skin fragility that is often found in obese individuals.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Kazuhiro Ogai, Masaru Matsumoto, Miku Aoki, Takeo Minematsu, Kei‐ichiro Kitamura, Masato Kobayashi, Hiromi Sanada, Junko Sugama Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

CRM1 and chromosomal passenger complex component survivin are essential to normal mitosis progress and to preserve keratinocytes from mitotic abnormalities
ConclusionBasal keratinocytes may divide frequently during skin lifespan, and signs of deterioration could appear such as loss of protein factors required for correct mitosis. Our findings suggest that mitotic abnormalities can be prevented by the modulation of CRM1 and survivin. We demonstrated the ability of compound “IV08.009” to efficiently protect cultured keratinocytes from mitotic abnormalities.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Florian Labarrade, Jean‐Marie Botto, Nouha Domloge Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Fatty acid profile of new promising unconventional plant oils for cosmetic use
ConclusionFA composition of cosmetic oils in combination with data concerning their oxidative quality, is very important for determining their safe and effective use. It is very important to standardize and test the FA content in commercially available oils of cosmetic use. Résumé ObjectifLes huiles ont été utilisées en application cosmétique depuis l'antiquité. Avec l'intérêt croissant dans la formulation cosmétique strictement “naturelle”, il y a eu aussi un intérêt accru pour l'utilisation d'huiles obtenues à partir de noix, des herbes, de fruits et de graines de légumes. En raison d'un manque de bons...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. Bialek, M. Bialek, M. Jelinska, A. Tokarz Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Evaluation of the enzymatic activity and stability of commercial bromelain incorporated in topical formulations
ConclusionThe emulsion‐based formulations at all the concentrations of bromelain were more stable than the gel‐based formulation over 180 days of evaluation, at a temperature of 5°C, protected from light.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Carolina Botelho Lourenço, Janaina Artem Ataide, Letícia Caramori Cefali, Letícia Novaes, Patrícia Moriel, Edgar Silveira, Elias Basile Tambourgi, Priscila Gava Mazzola Tags: Research Communication Source Type: research

Impact of chemical peeling combined with negative pressure on human skin
ConclusionsChemodermabrasion can temporarily impair skin barriers, but it is estimated that it can enhance the skin barrier function after 7 days compared to the use of a chemical agent alone. In addition, chemodermabrasion has a more effective impact in the dermis and relatively preserves the skin barrier.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - February 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: So Jeong Kim, In Jung Kang, Min Kyung Shin, Ki Heon Jeong, Ji Hwoon Baek, Jae Sook Koh, Sang Jun Lee Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The skin depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and Paeoniflorin: in vitro evaluation using reconstructed pigmented human epidermis
ConclusionThese results demonstrate, for the first time, the depigmenting potential of paeoniflorin and thus the potential interest of using Paeonia lactiflora root extracts containing paeoniflorin in cosmetic or dermatological applications for reducing the severity of some hyper‐pigmented skin disorders.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 31, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Jie Qiu, Muyun Chen, Juan Liu, Xiaoming Huang, Juanjuan Chen, Liang Zhou, Jie Ma, Peggy Sextius, Ana‐Maria Pena, Zhenzi Cai, Severine Jeulin Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

UV‐blocking potential of oils and juices
ConclusionThe UV blocking from most natural oils is insufficient to obtain a significant UV protection. Formulations containing 50wt% purple carrot showed good UV‐blocking capabilities and represent a promising ingredient for sunscreen and cosmetic applications. Résumé ObjectifLes écrans solaires sont couramment utilisés pour protéger le corps contre les dommages causés par la lumière UV. Il a été démontré que certains composants de filtres solaires organiques peuvent passer à travers la peau lors de l'application ce qui pourrait soulever des problèmes de toxicité de ces composés. Cette étude explore le ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 29, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Gause, A. Chauhan Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The ‘Dispersal Rate’ – a product dependent characteristic to predict the reliability of the calibrated in vitro SPF on WW5 plates
ConclusionWe suggest implementing an individual calibration of the in vitro SPF to improve the reproducibility of in vitro SPF measurements between different laboratories. Considering the Dispersal Rate helps to estimate the reliability of the in vitro SPF measured on WW5 plates. In order to evaluate whether those products with a high Dispersal Rate can also be calibrated with special standards, further measurements need to be done. We demonstrate that, besides the known parameter, also the composition of the products should be considered for the interpretation of the in vitro SPF. Our findings could explain some multiple ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 25, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. Batzer, A. Bleckmann, H. Lerg, F. Schwanke, T. Schläger Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

DSC of Human Hair: A tool for claim support or incorrect data analysis?
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - January 19, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Popescu, C. Gummer Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Development and Clinical Validation of a Novel Photography‐based Skin Pigmentation Evaluation System: A Comparison with the Calculated Consensus of Dermatologists\
ConclusionThis pigmentation evaluation system can reproduce the physicians’ consensus, suggesting that this system can support the dermatologists’ objective evaluation of pigmentation.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - December 26, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Cho, D‐H. Lee, Y. Kim, W. Koh, J. H. Chung, H. C. Kim, S. Kim Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

What if scalp flora was involved in sensitive scalp onset?
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - December 9, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. Guichard, L. Ma, Y. Tan, C. Yuan, H. Wang, T. Lihoreau, P. Humbert, X. Wang Tags: Letter to the Editor Source Type: research

The effects of narrow bands of visible light upon some skin disorders. A review
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - December 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Andrew J Greaves Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Towards a Body Hair Atlas of Women of Caucasian Ethnicity
ConclusionTo our knowledge this is the first systematic study comparing terminal hair properties in all cosmetically relevant body regions in Caucasian women.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - December 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Dorothea Schweiger, Anke Hoff, Stefan Scheede, Frank Fischer, Jelka Tilsner, Juliane Lüttke, Yvonne Neumann, Ralf Hagens Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Comparison between sensory and instrumental characterization of topical formulations: impact of thickening agents
ConclusionWith the obtained results it is possible to conclude that the proposed methods for mechanical characterization can be correlated with sensorial perception obtained from volunteers, representing a faster and less expensive alternative than sensory analysis.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - December 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Estanqueiro, M.H. Amaral, J.M. Sousa Lobo Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Fatty acids profile of new promising unconventional plant oils for cosmetic use
ConclusionFA composition of cosmetic oils in combination with data concerning their oxidative quality are useful in determining their safety and efficacy. It is important to standardize and test the FA content in commercially available oils for cosmetic use.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - December 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Agnieszka Bialek, Malgorzata Bialek, Malgorzata Jelinska, Andrzej Tokarz Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Anthocyanins contents in the seed coat of black soybean and their anti‐human tyrosinase activity and antioxidative activity
ConclusionAntioxidants in SCBS also possess anti‐human and anti‐mushroom tyrosinase activities.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - December 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Jyun‐Kai Jhan, Yun‐Chin Chung, Gen‐Hung Chen, Chih‐Hsiang Chang, Ying‐Chen Lu, Cheng‐Kuang Hsu Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Evaluation of the Anti‐wrinkle Effect of an Ascorbic Acid‐loaded Dissolving Microneedle Patch via a Double‐blind, Placebo‐controlled Clinical Study
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - December 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Lee, H. Yang, S. Kim, M. Kim, H. Kang, N. Kim, S. An, J. Koh, H. Jung Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Effect of cosmetic matrices on the release and odour profiles of the supercritical CO2 extract of Origanum majorana L
ConclusionThe hydrophilic character of the cosmetic matrices strongly influenced the release of the fragrance compounds thus affecting the odour profile of the studied mixtures.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 28, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Patrícia Costa, Cristina Verde Velasco, José Miguel Loureiro, Alírio E. Rodrigues Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

UV blocking potential of oils and juices
ConclusionThe UV blocking from most natural oils is insufficient to get significant UV protection. Formulations containing 50wt% purple carrot showed good UV blocking capabilities and represent a promising ingredient for sunscreen and cosmetic applications.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 27, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Samuel Gause, Anuj Chauhan Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A study of the suppression of body odour in elderly subjects by anti‐fungal agents
ConclusionOur findings suggest that MCZ could play a role in the suppression of body odour.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 27, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Chikako Ozeki, Osamu Moro Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Development of a Smart, Anti‐Water Polyurethane Polymer Hair Coating for Style Setting
ConclusionThe polyurethane polymer based hair setting agent has been developed successfully, it could be coated evenly on the human hair with good hand feeling and shape memory effects. The shape memory effect is highly related to the quantity of polyurethane polymer solution, the effect could be improved by increasing the solution quantity. The maximum deformation of the coated hair could be recovered 94% at 75°C, once its shape is changed by an external force. The treated hair can withstand warm water rinsing for at least five cycles, it can keep 65% of its original setting style after water rinsing. The polyurethane po...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 20, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Liu Yan, Liu Yijun, Jinlian Hu, Ji FengLong, Lv Jing, Chen Shao Jun, Zhu Yong Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

The “Dispersal Rate” ‐ a product dependent characteristic to predict the reliability of the calibrated in vitro SPF on WW5 plates
ConclusionWe suggest implementing an individual calibration of the in vitro SPF to improve the reproducibility of in vitro SPF measurements between different labs. Considering the Dispersal Rate helps to estimate the reliability of the in vitro SPF measured on WW5 plates. In order to evaluate whether those products with a high Dispersal Rate can also be calibrated with special standards, further measurements need to be done. We demonstrate that, besides the known parameter, also the composition of the products should be considered for the interpretation of the in vitro SPF. Our findings could explain some multiple reported...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 18, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. Batzer, A. Bleckmann, H. Lerg, F. Schwanke, T. Schläger Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Simultaneous determination of water‐soluble whitening ingredients and adenosine in different cosmetic formulations by high‐performance liquid chromatography coupled with photodiode array detection
ConclusionThe method developed herein is simple and can be used for market survey and quality control of functional cosmetics.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 13, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Jong‐Sup Jeon, Han‐Taek Kim, Myeong‐Gil Kim, Moon‐Seog Oh, Se‐Ra Hong, Mi‐Hye Yoon, Soo‐Min Cho, Ho‐Chul Shin, Jae‐Han Shim, Amer Ramadan, A. M. Abd El‐Aty Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The determination of the radical power – an in vitro test for the evaluation of cosmetic products
ConclusionThe knowledge of the sensitivity of cosmetics to generate FRs is necessary for its stabilization and prevention of potential damages to skin. It is a new way in development of cosmetics which has to be considered. Résumé ObjectifLes formulations cosmétiques sont influencées par les impacts environnementaux et par leur vieillissement, conduisant au rancissement, au changement de couleur et de structure. Ces changements sont causés par les radicaux libres. La susceptibilité des cosmétiques à générer des radicaux libres est une mesure de leur qualité et devrait être déterminée. MéthodesSpectroscopie ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 4, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: T. Herrling, M. Seifert, G. Sandig, K. Jung Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Disulfanyl peptide decreases melanin synthesis via receptor‐mediated ERK activation and the subsequent down‐regulation of MITF and tyrosinase
ConclusionNovel tetrapeptide dSHP reduces the melanin synthesis by a receptor‐mediated pathway. Furthermore, dSHP works by ERK activation and key transcription factor MITF degradation. Thus, it may be a good candidate as an effective hypopigmenting cosmetic agent.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 31, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Hye‐Ryung Choi, Youn‐A Kang, Hyun‐Sun Lee, Kyoung‐Chan Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

MRI as a promising tool for evaluation of the stability of cosmetic emulsions
ConclusionMRI is a promising tool for evaluation of the stability of cosmetic emulsions.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 28, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Yoshinori Onuki, Chihiro Kida, Chiaki Funatani, Yoshihiro Hayashi, Kozo Takayama Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Comparative studies on the chemical and enzymatic stability of alpha‐ and beta‐arbutin
ConclusionBoth arbutins were found to possess similar stability profiles, and to be more prone to in vivo rather than in chemico degradation, although no HQ was found after enzymatic hydrolysis. Also, no epimerization was observed in any of the tested conditions. Diverse experimental approaches can be applied to analyse the chemical and enzymatic stability of arbutins in regard to the potential release of HQ in different types of preparations. These result showed the potential use of NMR and OR as complementary investigative tools for the stability and safety assessment of arbutin along with more established HPLC methods. ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 7, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Avonto, Y.‐H. Wang, B. Avula, M. Wang, D. Rua, I. A. Khan Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Sensory and instrumental characterization of fast inverting oil‐in‐water emulsions for cosmetic application
ConclusionThe study showed that rheological measurements potentially could be related to certain sensory attributes and used for faster development of SWOP emulsions in the future. Finally, SWOP emulsions should be considered for further investigation as suitable vehicles in cosmetic products due to their favorable physicochemical and sensory characteristics which could be partially predicted with instrumental characterization.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 7, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Radava Korać, Danina Krajišnik, Jela Milić Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Brief Analysis of Causes of Sensitive Skin and Advances in Evaluation of Anti‐Allergic Activity of Cosmetic Products
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 7, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Linna Fan, Congfen He, Ligang Jiang, Yangxian Bi, Yinmao Dong, Yan Jia Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

A proposal of a standardized protocol to evaluate waterproof effect of eyeliner and mascara
ConclusionWe have evaluated the waterproof properties by analyzing photographed images of the test sites where eyeliners and mascaras were applied. Results of the comparison between non‐waterproof and waterproof eyeliners and mascaras, and the methods used, in particular, will be found useful in evaluating waterproof of other make‐up products.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Min Ji Kim, Young Kyoung Seo, Youg Chul Boo, Jae Sook Koh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Thiolated silicone oils as adhesive skin protectants for improved barrier function
ConclusionThiolation of silicone oil leads to enhanced skin adhesiveness and barrier function, which is a major advantage compared to commonly used silicones and might thus be a promising treatment modality for various topical applications.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Alexandra Partenhauser, Ožbej Zupančič, Julia Rohrer, Sonja Bonengel, Andreas Bernkop‐Schnürch Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Modified Corneosurfametry as a new accelerated high‐throughput ex vivo methodology for predicting cleanser effects towards human skin
ConclusionThe MCSM assay was shown to be a valuable tool for accelerated high throughput evaluation of mildness of surfactants and fully formulated products. MCSM can also be used to assess the state of the corneum after a product treatment. Résumé ContexteLa Corneosurfametrie (CSM) a été développée à l'origine comme un outil pour prédire le potentiel d'irritation des produits nettoyants. Dans ce procédé, la peau ayant subi un stripping au cyanoacrylate est mis en contact avec des agents tensioactifs et/ou des produits, puis rincée et colorée avec du bleu de toluidine et un colorant fuchsine basique. L'intensi...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Liu, L. Mollica, J. Regan, S. Hawkins, H. McGuiness, K. Vetro, U. Garczarek, S. Shi, V. Vasudevan, K. P. Ananthapadmanabhan Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Reliable assessment of forearm photoageing by high‐frequency ultrasound: a cross‐sectional study
ConclusionThe authors discuss the choice of parameters for forearm photoageing assessment using high‐frequency ultrasound. Résumé ObjectifLes ultrasons à haute fréquence sont un outil non invasif utilisé dans la recherche sur le vieillissement de la peau afin d'évaluer l'épaisseur du derme et son échogénicité. Cette étude a évalué la fiabilité d'un éventail de paramètres des ultrasons à haute fréquence et testé leur corrélation avec l'âge et avec une échelle clinique validée pour l'évaluation du photovieillissement de la peau de l'avant‐bras; la différence entre les deux parties du corps selon...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 30, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: L. de V. N. Caetano, J. L. M. Soares, E. Bagatin, H. A. Miot Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Synthesis and properties of feruloyl corn bran arabinoxylan esters
ConclusionFA modified CAX had significant antioxidant ability and UV absorption coefficient. And higher amount of ferulic acid leads to higher antioxidant activity and stronger UV absorption and stability. With increasing amount of FA attached to CAX, the antioxidant activities were better and the UV absorption was stronger and more durable.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 24, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Yanli Li, Cheng Yang Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Empowering patients through improving clarity of sun protection ratings on sunscreen
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 24, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: David R. McGowan, Grace Bennett, Eleanor Crane Tags: Letter to the Editor Source Type: research

Ageing effects on the diameter, nanomechanical properties and tactile perception of human hair
ConclusionAgeing influences the diameter, surface topography, hardness, loss modulus, storage modulus and tactile perception of human hair. Résumé ContexteLes changements typiques au niveau des cheveux associés au vieillissement sont le passage au gris, l'amincissement, la sécheresse, et la fragilité. La recherche sur l'influence du vieillissement sur les propriétés de cheveux permettra une compréhension détaillée du processus de vieillissement naturel. MéthodesLes études ont été réalisées en utilisant un MEB (microscope électronique à balayage), un TriboIndenter™, et un doigt artificiel. Trois caract...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 21, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: W. Tang, S.G. Zhang, J.K. Zhang, S. Chen, H. Zhu, S.R. Ge Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The determination of the Radical Power RP ‐ an in vitro test for the evaluation of cosmetic products
ConclusionThe knowledge of the sensitivity of cosmetics to generate free radicals is necessary for its stabilization and prevention of potential damages to skin.It is a new way in development of cosmetics which has to be considered.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Thomas Herrling, Marieta Seifert, Grit Sandig, Katinka Jung Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Internal structural changes in keratin fibres resulting from combined hair waving and stress relaxation treatments: A Raman spectroscopic investigation
ConclusionThe author concluded that the high‐temperature relaxation process after reduction accelerated the disconnection of –SS– (GGG and GGT) groups, thereby leading to the remarkable local molecular disorganization (an increase in the cysteic acid content and a decrease in the GGG content) on the cuticle and cortex cells during the oxidation process.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Akio Kuzuhara Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Mineral oil and synthetic hydrocarbons in cosmetic lip products
ConclusionsTaking into account that material applied to the lips largely ends up being ingested, MOSH and POSH levels should be reduced in the majority of cosmetic lip products. As the extensive evaluation of the data available on MOSH (EFSA, 2012) did not enable the specification of limits considered as safe, the present level of dietary exposure and its evaluation as “of potential concern” provide the relevant bench mark, which means that lip products should contain clearly less than 5% MOSH+POSH.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 11, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Markus Niederer, Thomas Stebler, Koni Grob Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Preliminary safety assessment of C–8 xylitol monoester and xylitol phosphate esters
ConclusionOur results suggested that xylitol‐derived compounds appear to be suitable candidates for preservative systems in cosmetics. Résumé ObjectifsLa plupart des composés cosmétiques possédant des propriétés antimicrobiennes disponibles sur le marché posent certains risques en matière de sécurité, telles que la possibilité de provoquer une sensibilisation. Le développement de nouvelles molécules à cet effet est donc nécessaire. Le xylitol est un sucre naturel et les propriétés antimicrobiennes des composés de xylitol dérivés ont déjà été décrites dans la littérature. Les esters C‐8 et mo...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 10, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. E. P. S. Silveira, M. C. V. Pereda, C. Nogueira, G. Dieamant, C. K. M. Cesar, K. M. Assanome, M. S. Silva, C. O. Torello, M. L. S. Queiroz, S. Eberlin Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Reliable assessment of forearm photoaging by high frequency ultrasound: a cross‐sectional study
CONCLUSION: The authors discuss the choice of parameters for forearm photoaging assessment using high frequency ultrasound. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 9, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Livia de Vasconcelos Nasser Caetano, Juliana Laudiceia Marques Soares, Edileia Bagatin, Helio Amante Miot Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Comparative studies on the chemical and enzymatic stability of alpha and beta arbutin
ConclusionBoth arbutins were found to possess similar stability profiles, and to be more prone to in vivo rather than in chemico degradation, although no hydroquinone was found after enzymatic hydrolysis. Also, no epimerization was observed in any of the tested conditions. Diverse experimental approaches can be applied to analyze the chemical and enzymatic stability of arbutins in regard to the potential release of hydroquinone in different types of preparations. These result showed the potential use of NMR and OR as complementary investigative tools for the stability and safety assessment of arbutin along with more establ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 9, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Cristina Avonto, Yan‐Hong Wang, Bharathi Avula, Mei Wang, Diego Rua, Ikhlas A. Khan Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Variation in stratum corneum protein content as a function of anatomical site and ethnic group
ConclusionsFacial SC is morphologically distinct from the forearm, as demonstrated by the differences in amounts of SC removed. Although the data distribution in different subject groups varied, the regression was always quite similar between the two body sites and both ethnic groups. Also the correlations were similar to previously published data on other body sites. The resultant calibration curves can be used as a rapid indirect protein assessment of tape strippings from the cheek.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 9, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: N Raj, R Voegeli, A V Rawlings, S Gibbons, Munday, B Summers, M E Lane Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Modified Corneosurfametry as a new accelerated high throughput ex‐vivo methodology for predicting cleanser effects towards human skin
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 9, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: M Liu, L Mollica, J Regan, H Hawkins, H McGuiness, K Vetro, U Garczarek, S Shi, V Vasudevan, K P Ananthapadmanabhan Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The influence of hair lipids in ethnic hair properties
ConclusionThe ethnic hairs were assessed related to their lipid composition, and some differences between them were found in terms of water uptake and mechanical properties. Résumé ObjectifLes études biochimiques ont principalement porté sur la composition des cheveux. Les cheveux afro montrent un dégrée d'hydratation inférieure et un gonflement moins radiale lors du rinçage avec de l'eau par rapport à cheveux asiatiques ou caucasiens, laissant supposer une différenciation lipidique possible parmi les populations humaines. Cette étude consiste en la caractérisation des lipides de différents cheveux ethniques ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 7, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Martí, C. Barba, A. M. Manich, L. Rubio, C. Alonso, L. Coderch Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Evaluation of anti‐acne properties of phloretin in vitro and in vivo
ConclusionsThis study revealed that phloretin inhibits the growth of P. acnes, P. granulosum, and S. epidermidis. In addition, we demonstrated that phloretin attenuates COX‐2 and PGE2 expression during the P. acnes‐induced upregulation of inflammatory signalling. Clinical studies further suggested that treatment with formulations containing phloretin confers anti‐acne benefits. Based on these results, we suggest that phloretin may be introduced as a possible acne‐mitigating agent. Résumé ObjectifLa présente étude visait à étudier les propriétés anti‐acné de phlorétine in vitro et in vivo. Méthod...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 30, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: H. Kum, K.‐B. Roh, S. Shin, K. Jung, D. Park, E. Jung Tags: Original Article Source Type: research