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Evaluation of anti‐acne properties of phloretin in vitro and in vivo
ConclusionsThis study revealed that phloretin inhibits the growth of P. acnes, P. granulosum, and S. epidermidis. In addition, we demonstrated that phloretin attenuates COX‐2 and PGE2 expression during the P. acnes‐induced upregulation of inflammatory signalling. Clinical studies further suggested that treatment with formulations containing phloretin confers anti‐acne benefits. Based on these results, we suggest that phloretin may be introduced as a possible acne‐mitigating agent. Résumé ObjectifLa présente étude visait à étudier les propriétés anti‐acné de phlorétine in vitro et in vivo. Méthod...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 30, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: H. Kum, K.‐B. Roh, S. Shin, K. Jung, D. Park, E. Jung Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A novel continuous colour mapping approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss for four ethnic groups
ConclusionsThere exists remarkable skin capacitance and TEWL gradients within short distances on selected areas of the face. These gradients are distinctive in the different ethnic groups. In contrast to other reports, we found that darkly pigmented skin does not always have a superior barrier function and differences in skin hydration values are complex on the different parts of the face among the different ethnic groups. Résumé ObjectifLe but de cette étude exploratoire était de développer une nouvelle approche de cartographie couleur pour visualiser et interpréter la complexité de l'hydratation de la peau du vis...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 25, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. Voegeli, A. V. Rawlings, P. Seroul, B. Summers Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination of cholesterol oxides by gas chromatography‐flame ionization detection/mass selective detection and their occurence in lanolin‐containing cosmetics and ointments
ConclusionTo our knowledge, we present for the first time a method for the determination of COPs in non‐food consumer products. Furthermore, our study demonstrates that lanolin‐containing cosmetics may be an additional exogenous source of COPs. We further show evidence, that at least part of the COPs are already formed on the sheep's wool. Résumé ObjectifLes oxydes de cholestérol (COP) sont considérés toxicologiquement pertinents dans les aliments contenant du cholestérol. Pour les produits cosmétiques et assimilés contenant du cholesterol, aucune information est disponible à cette date. Par conséquent, le p...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 24, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Schrack, C. Hohl, W. Schwack, M. Niederer, B. Roux Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Consequences of Urban pollution upon skin status. a controlled study in shanghai area
ConclusionThis study demonstrated a significant impact of the pollution upon the skin status, as illustrated by changes in superficial biochemical parameters and volunteers’ perception.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 20, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: M‐A. Lefebvre, D‐M. Pham, B. Boussouira, H. Qiu, C. Ye, X. Long, R. Chen, W. Gu, A. Laurent, L. Nguyen Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Randomized, double‐blinded, vehicle‐controlled, split‐face study to evaluate the effects of topical application of a Gold Silk Sericin/Niacinamide/Signaline complex on biophysical parameters related to skin ageing
ConclusionThe GSS complex examined in this study represents an interesting new cosmetic topical technology with which to address multiple aspects of aged/photoaged female facial skin. Résumé ObjectifPour étudier les effets de l'application topique d'un complexe de soie d'or séricine (GSS) sur les paramètres biophysiques liés au vieillissement de la peau. MéthodesUne gamme de méthodes de bio‐ingénierie non invasives a été déployée dans une étude randomisée sur huit semaines, en double aveugle, contre placebo, sur demi‐visage entre les 40 sujets féminins âgés de 40–70 ans. Les paramètres mesurés in...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 7, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: E. Berardesca, M. Ardigo, N. Cameli, M. Mariano, M. Agozzino, P.J. Matts Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Sunscreen formulations may serve as additional water barrier on skin surface: A clinical assessment
ConclusionsHydrophobic sunscreen formulations can help protect skin from extended water exposure by serving as additional water barriers.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Thomas Shyr, Hao Ou‐Yang Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Aging effects on the diameter, nanomechanical properties and tactile perception of human hair
ConclusionAging influences the diameter, surface topography, hardness, loss modulus, storage modulus, and tactile perception of human hair.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Wei Tang, Shaogang Zhang, Jiankai Zhang, Si Chen, Hua Zhu, Shirong Ge Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Malva verticillata seed extracts upregulate the Wnt pathway in human dermal papilla cells
ConclusionOverall, the data suggest that this extract of M. verticillata seeds could be a good candidate for treating hair loss by modulating the Wnt/β‐catenin pathway in DPCs.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Eun Young Lee, Eun‐Ju Choi, Jeong Ah Kim, Yul Lye Hwang, Chang‐Duk Kim, Min Ho Lee, Seok Seon Roh, Young Ho Kim, Inbo Han, Sangjin Kang Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Thermoresponsive Latexes for Fragrance Encapsulation and Release
ConclusionCrystalline‐to‐amorphous transition of PSA triggers the release of fragrances from cross‐linked latex particles at elevated temperatures. The presence of the encapsulated fragrance, as well as the inclusion of amorphous fragments in the polymer network, reduces the particle crystallinity and enhances the release. Release profiles can be tuned by temperature and controlled by the amount of loaded fragrance and the ratio of comonomers in the feed mixture.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 31, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Nadiya Popadyuk, Andriy Popadyuk, Ananiy Kohut, Andriy Voronov Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A novel continuous color mapping approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss for four ethnic groups
ConclusionsThere exists remarkable skin capacitance and TEWL gradients within short distances on selected areas of the face. These gradients are distinctive in the different ethnic groups. In contrast to other reports we found that darkly pigmented skin does not always have a superior barrier function and differences in skin hydration values are complex on the different parts of the face among the different ethnic groups.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 29, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. Voegeli, A.V. Rawlings, P. Seroul, B. Summers Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination of Cholesterol Oxides by Gas Chromatography‐Flame Ionisation Detection/‐Mass Selective Detection and Occurrences in Lanolin containing Cosmetics and Ointments
ConclusionTo our knowledge, we present for the first time a method for the determination of COPs in non‐food consumer products. Furthermore, our study demonstrates that lanolin containing cosmetics may be an additional exogenous source of COPs. We further show evidence, that at least part of the COPs are already formed on the sheep's wool .This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 25, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Schrack, C. Hohl, W. Schwack, M. Niederer, B. Roux Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Evaluation of anti‐acne properties of phloretin in vitro and in vivo
ConclusionsThe present study revealed that phloretin inhibits the growth of P. acnes, P. granulosum, and S. epidermidis. In addition, we demonstrated that phloretin attenuates COX‐2 and PGE2 expression during the P. acnes‐induced upregulation of inflammatory signaling. Clinical studies further suggested that treatment with formulations containing phloretin confers anti‐acne benefits. Based on these results, we suggest that phloretin may be introduced as a possible acne‐mitigating agent.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 24, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Hyunwoo Kum, Kyung‐Baeg Roh, Seoungwoo Shin, Kwangseon Jung, Deokhoon Park, Eunsun Jung Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Preliminary safety assessment of C‐8 Xylitol Monoester and Xylitol Phosphate Esters
ConclusionOur results suggested that xylitol‐derived compounds appear to be suitable as candidates for preservative systems in cosmeticsThis article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 21, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: J E P S Silveira, M C V Pereda, C Nogueira, G Dieamant, C K M Cesar, K M Assanome, Silva, C O Torello, M L S Queiroz, S Eberlin Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The adsorption behaviour and photoprotection effect of UV filter absorbed on the surface of human hair
ConclusionThe adsorption kinetics of the filters is comparable with a pseudo‐second‐order kinetic model and that their adsorption isotherms match the Freundlich adsorption model. Adsorption followed an endothermic process. UV filters have effect on protecting hair from photodamage. The effect of UVB filters is better than UVA filters. Résumé ObjectifLes butyl méthoxydibenzoylméthane (BMBM), octylméthoxycinnamate (MOC), benzophénone‐3 et octylsalicylate sont quatre types de filtres UV. Ce rapport présente les comportements d'adsorption et les effets de ces filtres sur les cuticules des cheveux adsorption. Mét...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 15, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: X. Li, J. Hu, L. Chen, W. Zhang Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The influence of hair lipids in ethnic ahir properties
ConclusionThe ethnic hairs were assessed related with their lipid composition, and some differences between them were found in terms of water uptake and mechanical properties.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 14, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Martí, C. Barba, A. M. Manich, L. Rubio, C. Alonso, L. Coderch Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Sensory factors affecting female consumers' acceptability of nail polish
ConclusionsParticipants' acceptability, based on different sensory attributes, could help a nail polish manufacturer modify or improve their nail polish formulas. Nail polish manufacturers could use the consumer cluster information to improve their marketing strategies for specific categories of their products and to target their advertising on particular consumer groups. Résumé ObjectifLes objectifs de cette étude étaient de déterminer quels sont les facteurs sensoriels qui ont un impact sur l'acceptabilité des vernis à ongles par les consommateurs, d'étudier comment ces facteurs sensoriels impactent l'acceptabil...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 14, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Sun, K. Koppel, K. Adhikari Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Nanoemulsion: process selection and application in cosmetics – A Review
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 14, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Megumi Nishitani Yukuyama, Daniela Dal Molim Ghisleni, Terezinha de Jesus Andreoli Pinto, Nadia Araci Bou‐Chacra Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Mercury(II) determination in commercial cosmetics and local Thai traditional medicines by flow injection spectrophotometry
ConclusionEnhancement in sensitivity and rapidity for Hg(II) assay by FIA could be achieved by adding SDS in ascorbic acid. The method would be useful for routine analysis of Hg(II) in real samples.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Kanyarak Prasertboonyai, Boonsom Liawraungrath, Teraboon Pojanakaroon, Saisunee Liawraungrath Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Pre‐Clinical Formulation Screening, Development and Stability of Acetyl Aspartic Acid for Cosmetic Application
ConclusionA‐A‐A is an active that can be successfully formulated in a cosmetic o/w emulsion within defined pH considerations.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 26, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: K. Cattley, L. Duracher, P. Camattari, A. Mavon, S. Grooby Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

In vitro and in vivo dermal absorption assessment of Acetyl Aspartic Acid: a compartmental study
ConclusionThe combination of in vitro with in vivo data confirmed that A‐A‐A has the capacity to diffuse through the skin after topical application, and reach the dermis as the targeted skin layer for potential anti‐aging benefits.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 26, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Lucie Duracher, Lene Visdal‐Johnsen, Alain Mavon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Acetyl aspartic acid (A‐A‐A), a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin aging: from consumer need to clinical proof
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 26, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. Mavon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Influence of facial skin ageing characteristics on the perceived age in a Russian female population
ConclusionBy providing a clear view on the signs of ageing really matter to Russian women that are aged 40 years old and above, this research offers key information for the development of relevant anti‐ageing solutions specifically targeting their needs and their desire to achieve younger‐looking skin.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 26, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: E Merinville, G Z Grennan, J M Gillbro, J Mathieu, A Mavon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The use of gene arrays and corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap) to identify novel anti‐aging ingredients
ConclusionBased on RA mimicking gene array activity, potential use within skincare on molecular size, safety assessment and sourcing, we identified the natural amino acid, A‐A‐A as a potential candidate to treat aging skin.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 26, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. M Gillbro, E. Merinville, M. Olsson, T. Al‐Bader, A. Klack, L. Visdal‐Johnsen, A. Mavon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Safety assessment of a novel active ingredient, acetyl aspartic acid, according to the EU cosmetics regulation and the SCCS guidelines
ConclusionA‐A‐A was assessed as safe by the cosmetic safety assessor for use in cosmetics at a level of 5% in all cosmetic product types, in line with the requirements of the EU Cosmetics Regulation and in accordance with the SCCS Notes of Guidance.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 26, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: P. Daly, G. Moran Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Fibulin‐5 regulates keloid‐derived fibroblast‐like cells through integrin beta‐1
ConclusionThis study demonstrates the pivotal role of the extracellular protein, fibulin‐5, on the adhesion and proliferation of human keloid‐derived cells, through binding to integrin beta‐1.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 11, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: N. Furie, D. Shteynberg, R. Elkhatib, L. Perry, Y. Ullmann, Y. Feferman, M. Preis, MY. Flugelman, I. Tzchori Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Structural activity relationship analysis (SAR) and in vitro testing reveal the anti‐aging potential activity of Acetyl Aspartic Acid
ConclusionUsing an in silico and in vitro approach, we were able to demonstrate that A‐A‐A has the capacity to target different compartments of the skin through keratinocyte regeneration, MMP‐inhibition and relief in fibroblasts stiffness by reduction of F‐actin cytoskeletal network in HDF.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: J.M. Gillbro, M. Lundahl, M. Westman, R. Baral, T. Al‐Bader, A. Mavon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid (A‐A‐A) increases fibrillin‐1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness
ConclusionIn this study we showed the in vivo efficacy of 1% A‐A‐A both on a protein level (Fibrillin and Collagen IV) and on a clinical end point, specifically skin firmness, providing proof that, Acetyl‐aspartic acid has a strong potential as an anti‐ageing “cosmeceutical” ingredient answering the needs of our key consumer base.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Johanna Gillbro, Eve Merinville, Kevin Cattley, Tamara Al‐Bader, Eva Hagforsen, Mia Nilsson, Alain Mavon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Establishment and characterization of a reconstructed Chinese human epidermis model
ConclusionThis is the first reconstructed Chinese human epidermis model reported to meet the high quality standard with industrialized production criteria. This China EpiSkin model can be used both for skin research and safety assessment in vitro.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Jie Qiu, Lingyan Zhong, Dan Chen, Ming Zhou, Xiaoming Huang, Juanjuan Chen, Muyun Chen, Haiyan Ni, Zhenzi Cai Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Method for quantification of oils and sebum levels on skin using the Sebumeter®
ConclusionsThe Sebumeter® is a precise analytical instrument capable of quantitative measurement of deposition of oily materials onto skin from topical products (down to the μg cm‐2 level), as well as its traditional use of measuring sebum levels. However the outputted values do not directly correlate with the mass of oil present and generation of a calibration curve is necessary for any ingredient of interest in order to produce quantitative data for claim support and formulation development.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: J.M. Crowther Tags: Research Communication Source Type: research

Optimization and development of stable w/o/w cosmetic multiple emulsions by means of the Quality by design (QbD) approach
ConclusionThe preformulation experiment is the part of a development plan. On the basis of these results the control strategy can be defined and a stable multiple emulsion can be ensured that meets the relevant stakeholders’ quality expectations.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. Kovács, I. Erős, I. Csóka Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The adsorption behavior and photoprotection effect of UV filter absorbed on the surface of human hair
ConclusionThe adsorption kinetics of the filters is comparable with a pseudo‐second‐order kinetic model and that their adsorption isotherms match the Freundlich adsorption model. Adsorption followed an endothermic process. UV filters have effect on protecting hair from photodamage. The effect of UVB filters are better than UVA filters.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Li Xiang, Hu Junjiao, Chen Lianghong, Zhang Wanping Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Sensory Factors Affecting Female Consumers’ Acceptability of Nail Polish
ConclusionsParticipants’ acceptability, based on different sensory attributes, could help a nail polish manufacturer modify or improve their nail polish formulas. Nail polish manufacturers could use the consumer cluster information to improve their marketing strategies for specific categories of their products and to target their advertising on particular consumer groups.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Chen Sun, Kadri Koppel, Koushik Adhikari Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Non–animal collagens as new options for cosmetic formulation
ConclusionsThese novel, non‐animal collagens may be potential alternatives to animal collagens for inclusion in cosmetic formulations.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 30, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Yong Y. Peng, Violet Stoichevska, Aditya Vashi, Linda Howell, Friederike Fehr, Geoff J. Dumsday, Jerome A. Werkmeister, John A.M. Ramshaw Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The effect of physically applied alpha hydroxyl acids on the skin pore and comedone
Conclusion4% AHA solution combined with a physical effect had rapidly improving effects on whiteheads and blackheads synergistically. Combined physical therapy may have more impact of pore size and seborrhea.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 29, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: So Jeong Kim, Ji Hwoon Baek, Jae Sook Koh, Myong Il Bae, Sang Joon Lee, Min Kyung Shin Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Progressive development in experimental models of transungual drug delivery of anti‐fungal agents
Synopsis Pre‐clinical development comprises of different procedures that relate drug discovery in the laboratory for commencement of human clinical trials. Pre‐clinical studies can be designed to recognize a lead candidate from a list to develop the procedure for scale‐up, to choose the unsurpassed formulation, to determine the frequency, and duration of exposure; and eventually make the foundation of the anticipated clinical trial design. The foremost aim in the pharmaceutical research and industry is the claim of drug product quality throughout a drug's life cycle. The particulars of the pre‐clinical development ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 27, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: P. Thatai, A. K. Tiwary, B. Sapra Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Application of microencapsulated essential oils in cosmetic and personal healthcare products – a review
Synopsis Nowadays, the consumers around the world are increasingly focused on health and beauty. The renewed consumer interest in natural cosmetic products creates the demand for new products and reformulated others with botanical and functional ingredients. In cosmetic products, essential oils (EOs) play a major role as fragrance ingredients. They can optimize its proprieties and preservation, as well as the marketing image of the final product. Microencapsulation of EOs can protect and prevent the loss of volatile aromatic ingredients and improve the controlled release and stability of this core materials. The importance...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 25, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: I. T. Carvalho, B. N. Estevinho, L. Santos Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Water‐resistant sunscreens for skin protection: an in vivo approach to the two sources of sunscreen failure to maintain UV protection on consumer skin
ConclusionsThe results confirm 2 stress origins in sunscreen exposure to water: interfacial surface tension and bulk water diffusion. Polymers bring improvements to the resistance of sunscreens to bulk water but show wide latitude in performances when subject to the water surface tension stress. Globally, a higher loss of filters is observed in the UV‐A than in the UV‐B, which is attributed to more UV‐A filter loss or degradation and thus resulting in a decreased protection in the UV‐A. Résumé ObjectifsLa résistance à l'eau des produits de protection solaire a pris plus d'importance pour la protection UV des c...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 25, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: G. Puccetti Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Contribution to Interplay between a Delamination Test and a Sensory Analysis of mid‐range Lipsticks
ConclusionThere is a high correlation between the sensory analysis and the instrumental measurements in this study. The carried out delamination test should permit to quickly determine the lasting (screening test) and in consequence optimize the basic formula of lipsticks.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 23, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Richard, B. Tillé‐Salmon, Y. Mofid Tags: Research Communication Source Type: research

Salicylic acid deposition from wash‐off products: comparison of in vivo and porcine deposition models
ConclusionThe methods employed in this work highlight the utility of the use of EEMs, in conjunction with multivariate analysis tools such as parallel factor analysis and multiway partial least‐squares calibration, in determining sources of spectral variability in skin and quantification of exogenous species deposited on skin. The human model exhibited the widest range of linearity, but porcine model is still useful up to deposition levels of 25 μg cm−2 or used with nonlinear calibration models. Résumé ObjectifL'acide salicylique est un actif anti‐acné largement utilisé dans les produits de nettoyage du visag...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 22, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. A. Davies Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A fast and direct spectrophotometric method for the simultaneous determination of methyl paraben and hydroquinone in cosmetic products using successive projections algorithm
ConclusionThe proposed method, which is an environmentally friendly approach, using minimum amount of solvent, is a simple, fast and low cost analysis method that can provide high accuracy and robust models. The suggested method doesn't need any complex extraction procedure which are time consuming and require hazardous solvents.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 15, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Mahnaz Esteki, Siavash Nouroozi, Zahra Shahsavari Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Simultaneous determination of arbutin and its decomposed product hydroquinone in whitening creams using high‐performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection: Effect of temperature and pH on decomposition
ConclusionThe developed method is simple to detect both arbutin and hydroquinone simultaneously in cosmetic products, at an adequate level of sensitivity. Notably, temperature and pH did not influence the decomposition of arbutin to hydroquinone in a 2% arbutin cream. Résumé ObjectifsArbutine est un agent efficace pour le traitement de troubles de la mélanine. Arbutine peut être converti en hydroquinone dans des conditions de haute température, des rayons ultraviolets (UV), et d'un acide dilué. L'objectif de la présente étude était de développer une méthode analytique pour déterminer les niveaux de l'arbutine ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 7, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. S. Jeon, B. H. Kim, S. H. Lee, H. J. Kwon, H. J. Bae, S. K. Kim, J. A Park, J. H. Shim, A. M. Abd El‐Aty, H. C. Shin Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Characterizing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreen spray
ConclusionThe proposed measurement methods were shown to be highly effective in the characterization of oxide NPs in sunscreen sprays, providing consistent information related to NPs and their interactions in the formulations.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 6, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: P. J. Lu, W. L. Cheng, S. C. Huang, Y. P. Chen, H. K. Chou, H. F. Cheng Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

An oil‐soluble extract of rubus idaeus cells enhances hydration and water homeostasis in skin cells
ConclusionsThanks to these activities, the Rubus idaeus liposoluble extract has several potential applications in skin care cosmetics: it can be used as hydrating and moisturizing ingredient in face and body lotions, and as anti‐ageing product in face creams specifically designed to fight wrinkle formation.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 6, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Annalisa Tito, Marida Bimonte, Antonietta Carola, Adriana De Lucia, Ani Barbulova, Assunta Tortora, Gabriella Colucci, Fabio Apone Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A new protocol for evaluating the efficacy of some dispensing systems of a packaging in the microbial protection of water‐based preservative‐free cosmetic products
ConclusionThe proposed protocol is proved being able to discriminate between different PS's and provides information on strong and weak features of certain types dispensing technologies prone to efficiently decrease either the dose contamination or to prevent contamination in reaching the contained product. Therefore, the proposed protocol can contribute to an objective selection of a PS for protecting a cosmetic care product with a low content of preservative or preservative‐free.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 6, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Frank Devlieghere, Anja De Loy‐Hendrickx, Michaël Rademaker, Peter Pipelers, Alain Crozier, Bernard De Baets, Laurence Joly, Solene Keromen Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Biocompounds from rapeseed oil industry co‐stream as active ingredients for skin care applications
ConclusionThe enzymatic technology applied to the rapeseed oil industry costream results in the release of bioactive compounds suitable for skincare applications. Resume ObjectifMalgré le grand nombre de substances produites par l'industrie des soins de la peau, très peu d'entre elles semblent avoir vraiment un effet sur la peau. Par conséquent, étant donné les implications sociales entourant l'apparence physique, la recherche de nouveaux composés bioactifs pour prévenir ou atténuer le vieillissement de la peau et améliorer l'image de soi est une priorité de la recherche actuelle. Dans ce contexte, étant riche ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 4, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: D. Rivera, K. Rommi, M. M. Fernandes, R. Lantto, T. Tzanov Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Randomised, double‐blinded, vehicle‐controlled, split‐face study to evaluate the effects of topical application of a Gold Silk Sericin / Niacinamide / Signaline complex on biophysical parameters related to skin ageing
ConclusionThe GSS Complex examined in this present study represents an interesting new cosmetic topical technology with which to address multiple aspects of aged / photoaged female facial skin.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 4, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Enzo Berardesca, Marco Ardigo, Norma Cameli, M Mariano, M Agozzino, Paul Matts Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Advanced Hair Damage Model from Ultra‐Violet Radiation in the Presence of Copper
ConclusionsThe role of copper in accelerating UV damage to hair has been demonstrated as well as the ability of chelants such as EDDS and histidine in shampoo and conditioner products to reduce this damage.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 29, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Jennifer M Marsh, Michael G Davis, Michael J Flagler, Yiping Sun, Tanuja Chaudhary, Marc Mamak, David W. McComb, Robert EA Williams, Kenneth D Greis, Laia Rubio, Luisa Coderch Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Application of microencapsulated essential oils in cosmetic and personal health care products – A Review
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 29, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Isabel T. Carvalho, Berta N. Estevinho, Lúcia Santos Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Salicylic Acid Deposition from Wash‐Off Products: Comparison of in vivo and Porcine Deposition Models
ConclusionThe methods employed in this work highlight the utility of the use of full excitation‐emission matrices, in conjunction with multivariate analysis tools such as Parallel Factor Analysis and multi‐way Partial Least Squares calibration, in determining sources of spectral variability in skin and quantitation of exogenous species deposited on skin. The human model exhibited the widest range of linearity but porcine model is still useful up to deposition levels of 25 μg cm−2 or used with non‐linear calibration models.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 21, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: Mark. A. Davies Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Quantifying dyspigmentation in facial skin ageing: an explorative study
ConclusionWe demonstrated age related changes in the facial colour and dyspigmentation of fair skinned Caucasian females. An increase in dyspigmentation was found by clinical scoring and the RBX®‐Brown transformation based pigmentation indices. The validity of hyper‐ and hypopigmentation indices and overall pigmentation intensity was supported. The RBX® transformation based pigmentation indices might be applied in future studies to complement or substitute clinical evaluation.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 21, 2015 Category: Dermatology Authors: G Dobos, C Trojahn, A Lichterfeld, B D′Alessandro, S V Patwardhan, D Canfield, U Blume‐Peytavi, J Kottner Tags: Original Article Source Type: research