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The effects of benzylsulfonyl ‐D‐Ser‐homoPhe‐(4‐amidino‐benzylamide), a dual plasmin and urokinase inhibitor, on facial skin barrier function in subjects with sensitive skin
ConclusionBSFAB binds as a reversible competitive inhibitor to the active sites of plasmin and uPA. Additionally, BSFAB positively improved keratinocyte differentiation gene expression (transglutaminase 1). These effects were translated into improvements in SC barrier integrity clinically in subjects with dry and sensitive skin and improved their perception of having a healthy skin condition.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 22, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. Voegeli, P. Wikstroem, R. Campiche, T. Steinmetzer, E. Jackson, M. Gempeler, D. Imfeld, A.V. Rawlings Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The effects of benzylsulfonyl‐D‐Ser‐homoPhe‐(4‐amidino‐benzylamide), a dual plasmin and urokinase inhibitor, on facial skin barrier function in subjects with sensitive skin
ConclusionBSFAB binds as a reversible competitive inhibitor to the active sites of plasmin and uPA. Additionally, BSFAB positively improved keratinocyte differentiation gene expression (transglutaminase 1). These effects were translated into improvements in SC barrier integrity clinically in subjects with dry and sensitive skin and improved their perception of having a healthy skin condition.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 19, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. Voegeli, P. Wikstroem, R. Campiche, T. Steinmetzer, E. Jackson, M. Gempeler, D. Imfeld, A.V. Rawlings Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Effect of Ultrasound and Heat on Percutaneous Absorption of L ‐Ascorbic Acid: human in vitro studies on Franz cell and Petri Dish Systems
ConclusionCombination of ultrasound (329 kHz, 20 mW/cm2) and heat (36°C) significantly enhanced LAA transdermal penetration, when the time of treatment was sufficient (5 min). As petri dish model was designed to simulate acoustic respond of dense human tissue to ultrasound, the difference between Franz cell and petri dish models suggests that the enhancement effect of ultrasound/heat on skin penetration in vivo may be greater than that determined on in vitro Franz cell model.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 5, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Eui Chang Jung, Hanjiang Zhu, Ying Zou, Akram Elmahdy, Yachao Cao, Xiaoying Hui, Howard I Maibach Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Design, synthesis and characterisation of linear unnatural amino acids for skin moisturisation
ConclusionsThis work demonstrates the potential of unnatural amino acid hydrotropes as skin moisturisers and has developed some predictive “rules” for further design and refinement of chemical structures.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 5, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Natasha R. Arezki, Adrian C. Williams, A. J. Andre Cobb, Marc B. Brown Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Molecular basis of retinol anti ‐ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo
Conclusion0.4% topical ROL shows remarkable anti‐ageing effects through improvement of the homeostasis of epidermis and dermis by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes and endothelial cells, and activating dermal fibroblasts. These data provide evidence that 0.4% topical ROL is a promising and safe treatment to improve the naturally aged human skin. Résumé ObjectifL'acide rétinoïque a été montré améliorer l'apparence de la peau âgée. Cependant, on connaît moins les effets anti‐vieillissement de rétinol (ROL, de la vitamine A), un précurseur de l'acide rétinoïque, dans la peau humaine in vivo. C...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 4, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Y. Shao, T. He, G. J. Fisher, J. J. Voorhees, T. Quan Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Molecular basis of retinol anti‐ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo
Conclusion0.4% topical ROL shows remarkable anti‐ageing effects through improvement of the homeostasis of epidermis and dermis by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes and endothelial cells, and activating dermal fibroblasts. These data provide evidence that 0.4% topical ROL is a promising and safe treatment to improve the naturally aged human skin. Résumé ObjectifL'acide rétinoïque a été montré améliorer l'apparence de la peau âgée. Cependant, on connaît moins les effets anti‐vieillissement de rétinol (ROL, de la vitamine A), un précurseur de l'acide rétinoïque, dans la peau humaine in vivo. C...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 4, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Y. Shao, T. He, G. J. Fisher, J. J. Voorhees, T. Quan Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination and confirmation of isopropyl p ‐toluenesulfonate in cosmetics by HPLC‐diode array detector method and GC–MS
ConclusionsThe validation data indicated that this method was suitable for the quantitative analysis of IPTS in commercial cosmetics. This method is applicable for analyses of trace levels of IPTS in cosmetics and has the advantage of using only simple sample preparation steps. Résumé ObjectifL'isopropyl p‐toluènesulfonate (IPTS) est un sous‐produit potentiellement génotoxique formé lors de l'estérification de l'acide myristique à base d'huile de noyaux de palme ou de l'acide palmitique à base d'huile de palme avec de l'isopropanol pour produire isopropylique myristate ou palmitate d'isopropyle. Il n'y a pas l...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 30, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. Y. P. Tay, S. C. Yung, T. Y. Teoh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination and confirmation of isopropyl p‐toluenesulfonate in cosmetics by HPLC‐diode array detector method and GC–MS
ConclusionsThe validation data indicated that this method was suitable for the quantitative analysis of IPTS in commercial cosmetics. This method is applicable for analyses of trace levels of IPTS in cosmetics and has the advantage of using only simple sample preparation steps. Résumé ObjectifL'isopropyl p‐toluènesulfonate (IPTS) est un sous‐produit potentiellement génotoxique formé lors de l'estérification de l'acide myristique à base d'huile de noyaux de palme ou de l'acide palmitique à base d'huile de palme avec de l'isopropanol pour produire isopropylique myristate ou palmitate d'isopropyle. Il n'y a pas l...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 30, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. Y. P. Tay, S. C. Yung, T. Y. Teoh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

3 ‐(3,4,5‐Trimethoxybenzylidene)‐2,4‐pentanedione: Design of a novel photostabilizer with in vivo SPF boosting properties and its use in developing broad‐spectrum sunscreen formulations
ConclusionWe were able to design a very effective photostabilizer, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione (INCI name), based on benzylidenepentanedione chemistry. TMBP is very efficient in stabilizing avobenzone in formulated products and boosts in vivo SPF by >50% for organic and inorganic sunscreens, and the formulations have critical wavelengths of >370 nm. These efficacious properties make it a promising additive for inclusion in broad‐spectrum photoprotective products. Résumé ObjectifL'étude a porté sur la synthèse d'un nouveau photostabilisant basé sur la chimie de benzylidenepentanedione et l'évaluation ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 29, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. K. Chaudhuri, M. A. Ollengo, P. Singh, B. S. Martincigh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

3‐(3,4,5‐Trimethoxybenzylidene)‐2,4‐pentanedione: Design of a novel photostabilizer with in vivo SPF boosting properties and its use in developing broad‐spectrum sunscreen formulations
ConclusionWe were able to design a very effective photostabilizer, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione (INCI name), based on benzylidenepentanedione chemistry. TMBP is very efficient in stabilizing avobenzone in formulated products and boosts in vivo SPF by >50% for organic and inorganic sunscreens, and the formulations have critical wavelengths of >370 nm. These efficacious properties make it a promising additive for inclusion in broad‐spectrum photoprotective products. Résumé ObjectifL'étude a porté sur la synthèse d'un nouveau photostabilisant basé sur la chimie de benzylidenepentanedione et l'évaluation ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 29, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. K. Chaudhuri, M. A. Ollengo, P. Singh, B. S. Martincigh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

3 ‐O‐Laurylglyceryl ascorbate reinforces skin barrier function through not only the reduction of oxidative stress but also the activation of ceramide synthesis
ConclusionTaken together, we conclude that VC‐3LG reinforces the skin barrier function due to its reduction of oxidative stress and its promotion of ceramide synthesis. Résumé ObjectifUne plus haute perte d'eau de trans‐epidermal (TEWL) se produit dans la peau rugueuse, dans la peau aînée et aussi dans la dermatite atopic. On considère qu'une fonction de barrière de peau diminuée est provoquée par une construction incomplète de la structure lamellar intercellulaire en raison de la réduction quantitative de ceramides. Comme ces symptômes coexistent avec la tension d'oxidative, nous étions hypothétiques que...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 28, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Y. Katsuyama, N. Taira, T. Tsuboi, M. Yoshioka, H. Masaki, O. Muraoka Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Effect of the gel elasticity of model skin matrices on the distance/depth ‐dependent transmission of vibration energy supplied from a cosmetic vibrator
ConclusionsThe current results are the first report in estimating how the external energy is deeply or distantly transferred into a model skins depending on the elastic moduli of the models skins. In doing so, the results would be potentially useful in predicting the health of cells, tissues and organs exposed to various stimuli. Résumé ObjectifLe but de cette étude est de déterminer comment les énergies fournies par un vibrateur cosmétique sont transférées soit en profondeur soit latéralement dans les organes et les tissus, et comment ces profondeurs ou les distances sont influencées par l'élasticité des tiss...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 28, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. K. Jeong, C. Hwang, H. Nam, Y. S. Cho, B. Y. Kang, E. C. Cho Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination of residual 1,4 ‐dioxane in surfactants and cleaning agents using headspace single‐drop microextraction followed by gas chromatography–flame ionization detection
ConclusionA new method with the merits of simplicity, low cost, low organic solvent consumption, short analysis time, good repeatability and suitable detection limit was developed for the analysis of 1,4‐dioxane in surfactants and cleaning agents. Résumé ObjectifPolyéthoxylé tensioactifs sont largement utilisés dans la formulation de différents agents de nettoyage tels que le shampooing, la vaisselle et les produits de lavage des mains, et la formulation de lotion. Au cours de la production d'agents tensio‐actifs polyéthoxylés, le 1,4‐dioxane comme toxique et cancérigène sous‐produit est formé. Une mét...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 23, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Saraji, N. Shirvani Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Molecular basis of retinol anti‐aging properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo
Conclusion0.4% topical ROL shows remarkable anti‐aging effects through improvement of the homeostasis of epidermis and dermis by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes and endothelial cells, and activating dermal fibroblasts. These data provide evidence that 0.4% topical ROL is a promising and safe treatment to improve naturally aged human skin.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 4, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Yuan Shao, Tianyuan He, Gary J. Fisher, John J. Voorhees, Taihao Quan Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Preparation of alpha ‐bisabolol and phenylethyl resorcinol/TiO2 hybrid composites for potential applications in cosmetics
ConclusionUsing this strategy, it could be possible to prepare not only inorganic UV filter but also hybrid organic/inorganic materials with multifunctions and advantages which would be in a great demand for cosmetic applications. Résumé ObjectifDes hybrides bifonctionnels d'alpha‐bisabolol et de phényléthyle résorcinol/TiO2 ont été préparés pour des applications dans les domaines cosmétiques, en particulier dans le anti‐vieillissement et le traitement de l'hyperpigmentation. L'effet synergique d'antioxydants combinés et les propriétés de filtrage UV a été réalisé grâce à la fonctionnalisation des p...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 2, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: H. J. Leong, I. Jang, K. ‐S. Hyun, S.‐K. Jung, G.‐H. Hong, H.‐A. Jeong, S.‐G. Oh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Optimizing the spectral absorption profile of sunscreens
ConclusionIt may be tempting to believe that it is beneficial to increase the absorption of sunscreens in the UVB region relative to the UVA to reflect the fact that skin damage is associated more with UVB than UVA exposure. However, this belief is a fallacy and consumers are best served with sunscreens in which the spectral protection profile is uniform at all wavelengths throughout the UV spectrum.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Brian L. Diffey Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Sensory analysis of cosmetic powders: Personal care ingredients and emulsions
ConclusionThe lexicon developed in this study can be used for assessment of other powders but also to define the quantities necessary to put in the formulation to meet the sensory characteristics of these raw materials powder.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Manon Moussour, Marc Lavarde, Anne‐Marie Pensé‐Lhéritier, François Bouton Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Effect of Ultrasound and Heat on Percutaneous Absorption of L‐Ascorbic Acid: human in vitro studies on Franz cell and Petri Dish Systems
ConclusionCombination of ultrasound (329 kHz, 20 mW/cm2) and heat (36°C) significantly enhanced LAA transdermal penetration, when the time of treatment was sufficient (5 min). As petri dish model was designed to simulate acoustic respond of dense human tissue to ultrasound, the difference between Franz cell and petri dish models suggests that the enhancement effect of ultrasound/heat on skin penetration in vivo may be greater than that determined on in vitro Franz cell model.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Eui Chang Jung, Hanjiang Zhu, Ying Zou, Akram Elmahdy, Yachao Cao, Xiaoying Hui, Howard I Maibach Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Facial expression under stiff stratum corneum leads to strain concentrations, followed by residual wrinkle formation
ConclusionBecause exposure to dry or humid conditions in the short‐term could affect only stratum corneum mechanics, the present results indicated that stratum corneum could be considered to be responsible for localized strain during facial expressions. This strain is followed by residual wrinkle formation. Accumulation of residual wrinkles will produce permanent wrinkles in the long‐term. Improving the mechanics of stratum corneum might be an effective approach in wrinkle formation prevention.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Yusuke Hara, Tetsuji Hirao, Ichiro Iwai Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Effect of the Gel Elasticity of Model Skin Matrices on the Distance/Depth‐dependent Transmission of Vibration Energy Supplied from a Cosmetic Vibrator
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Min Kuk Jeong, Chenghwan Hwang, Hyeseong Nam, Young Suk Cho, Byoung Young Kang, Eun Chul Cho Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

3‐O‐Laurylglyceryl ascorbate reinforces skin barrier function through not only the reduction of oxidative stress but also the activation of ceramide synthesis
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - June 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Yushi Katsuyama, Norihisa Taira, Tatsuya Tsuboi, Masato Yoshioka, Hitoshi Masaki, Osamu Muraoka Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination of residual 1,4‐dioxane in surfactants and cleaning agents using headspace single‐drop microextraction followed by gas chromatography‐flame ionization detection
ConclusionA new method with the merits of simplicity, low cost, low organic solvent consumption, short analysis time, good repeatability, and suitable detection limit was developed for the analysis of 1,4‐dioxane in surfactants and cleaning agents.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 31, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Mohammad Saraji, Neda Shirvani Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Galectin ‐7 in the stratum corneum: a biomarker of the skin barrier function
ConclusionMeasurement of scGal‐7 content in tape‐stripped samples was useful for the evaluation of the skin barrier function in dry skin conditions such as AD. Résumé ObjectifLa rupture de la barrière de la peau se produit souvent dans des conditions de la peau malade et endommagée telles que la dermatite atopique (AD). Nous nous sommes intéressés à la protéine galectine‐7 (Gal‐7) en tant que biomarqueur de l’état de la peau et avons évalué si le contenu de Gal‐7 dans la couche cornée (scGal‐7) pouvait être utilisé comme un indicateur de rupture de la barrière de la peau et comme un indice de ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 27, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Niiyama, T. Yoshino, C. Yasuda, X. Yu, R. Izumi, S. Ishiwatari, S. Matsukuma, H. Mukai Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Galectin‐7 in the stratum corneum: a biomarker of the skin barrier function
ConclusionMeasurement of scGal‐7 content in tape‐stripped samples was useful for the evaluation of the skin barrier function in dry skin conditions such as AD. Résumé ObjectifLa rupture de la barrière de la peau se produit souvent dans des conditions de la peau malade et endommagée telles que la dermatite atopique (AD). Nous nous sommes intéressés à la protéine galectine‐7 (Gal‐7) en tant que biomarqueur de l’état de la peau et avons évalué si le contenu de Gal‐7 dans la couche cornée (scGal‐7) pouvait être utilisé comme un indicateur de rupture de la barrière de la peau et comme un indice de ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 27, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Niiyama, T. Yoshino, C. Yasuda, X. Yu, R. Izumi, S. Ishiwatari, S. Matsukuma, H. Mukai Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Purification and characterization of a melanin biodegradation enzyme from Geotrichum sp.
ConclusionThese results indicate the potential of MnP purified from Geotrichum sp. as a skin‐lightening agent in the cosmetic industry. Résumé ObjectifLa mélanine est un polymère phénolique noir ou brun, présente principalement dans la peau et les cheveux. Bien que la mélanine puisse être dégradée par certaines espèces microbiennes, la capacité de dégradation de la mélanine de Geotrichum sp. est inconnue. Le but de cette étude était de caractériser une enzyme de biodégradation de la mélanine de Geotrichum sp. MéthodesDans la présente étude, nous avons évalué l'activité de dégradation de la mél...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 26, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. S. Kim, M. Blaghen, H.‐S. Hong, K.‐M. Lee Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

3‐(3,4,5‐Trimethoxybenzylidene)‐2,4‐pentanedione: Design of a Novel Photostabilizer with In‐vivo SPF Boosting Properties and Its Use in Developing Broad‐spectrum Sunscreen Formulations
ConclusionWe were able to design a very effective photostabilizer, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione (INCI name), based on benzylidenepentanedione chemistry. TMBP is very efficient in stabilizing avobenzone in formulated products, boosts in‐vivo SPF by >50% for organic and inorganic sunscreens and the formulations have critical wavelengths of >370 nm. These efficacious properties make it a promising additive for inclusion in broad‐spectrum photoprotective products.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 21, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Moses A. Ollengo, Parvesh Singh, Bice S. Martincigh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Comparison of the compact dry TC method with the standard method ISO 21149:2006 for determining aerobic colony counts in cosmetic emulsion
ConclusionThe results showed that the two compared methods “ Compact Dry TC” versus “Conventional pour plate” performed equally well. Demonstration was achieved that the Compact Dry TC method may constitute a useful alternative tool for rapid enumeration of aerobic mesophilic bacteria in cosmetic emulsions.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 18, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Segolene De Vaugelade, Magali Aime, Nicolas Farcette, Elodie Maurel, Thierry Lacour, Claire Thomas, Stephane Bouchonnet, Stephane Pirnay Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination and confirmation of isopropyl p‐toluenesulfonate in cosmetics by HPLC diode‐array detector method and GC‐MS
ConclusionsThe validation data indicated that this method was suitable for the quantitative analysis of IPTS in commercial cosmetics. This method is applicable for analyses of trace levels of IPTS in cosmetics and has the advantage of using only simple sample preparation steps.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 12, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Bonnie Yen Ping Tay, Shin Chyi Yung, Tick Yau Teoh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Inhibition of TRPV1 prevented skin irritancy induced by phenoxyethanol. A preliminary in vitro and in vivo study
ConclusionsDifferent to capsaicin, phenoxyethanol did not down regulate the expression of TRPV1 in HaCaT cells, suggesting that different regulatory mechanisms may exist for capsaicin and phenoxyethanol. Our experiments demonstrated that phenoxyethanol induces skin misperception and uncomfortable skin sensations like itching and burning comparable to capsaicin via activating TRPV1.The stimulation was inhibited by blocking TRPV1 with ID1609. The present data strengthened hitherto studies that TRPV1 plays a critical role in sensitive skin.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Jou...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 11, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Li Dong Guang, Du Hong Yang, Gerhard Schmaus, Imke Meyer, Wei Liu Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Apoptosis in follicles of individuals with female pattern hair loss is associated with perifollicular microinflammation
ConclusionsApoptosis was prominent in hair follicles from the FPHL group, as well as in miniaturized ones. Moreover, it was also correlated to the inflammatory infiltrate, which suggests that inflammation can lead to apoptosis and play a role in the pathogenesis of follicle miniaturization.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 10, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Paulo Müller Ramos, Gabrielli Brianezi, Ana Carolina Pereira Martins, Márcia Guimarães da Silva, Mariângela Esther Alencar Marques, Hélio Amante Miot Tags: Research Communication Source Type: research

New approach for a reliable in vitro sun protection factor method – Part II: Practical aspects and implementations
ConclusionCe second article conclue que cette nouvelle méthode de détermination In Vitro du FPS, basée sur 113 produits solaires issus de la Partie I et Partie II, est clairement adaptée à des fins de revendication du FPS quelque soit le type de produit, car elle est non invasive, moins coûteuse, plus pratique et plus fiable si elle est réalisée dans des conditions strictes. In vivo SPF vs. in vitro SPF for the tested samples. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 6, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Miksa, D. Lutz, C. Guy, E. Delamour Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

SPF and UVA ‐PF sunscreen evaluation: are there good correlations among results obtained in vivo, in vitro and in a theoretical Sunscreen Simulator? A real‐life exercise
ConclusionIn the present study, the use of BASF Sunscreen Simulator and in vitroUVA tests showed good correlations with in vivo results and could be considered as valuable resources in the development of sunscreens. Résumé ObjectifLes stratégies pour optimiser le développement des écrans solaires comprennent l'utilisation de simulateurs de protection solaire théoriques pour prédire le facteur de protection solaire (SPF) et UVA (UVA‐PF), et des mesures in vitro du UVA‐PF. Les buts de la présente étude étaient d’évaluer les corrélations entre (1) SPF et les résultats UVA‐PF obtenus dans un simulateur so...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 3, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. P. Santos Caetano, A. P. Abarca, M. Guerato, L. Guerra, S. Schalka, D. C. Perez Sim ão, R. Vila Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Preparation of alpha‐bisabolol and phenylethyl resorcinol/TiO2 hybrid composites for potential applications in cosmetics
ConclusionBy using this strategy, it could be possible to prepare not only inorganic UV filter but also hybrid organic/inorganic materials with multi‐functions and advantages which would be in a great demand for cosmetics applications.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 3, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Hui Jun Leong, Inseok Jang, Kwang‐Soo Hyun, Suk‐Kyun Jung, Geun‐Hye Hong, Hyeon‐Ah Jeong, Seong‐Geun Oh Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Microbiological Risk Assessment for Personal Care Products
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - May 3, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Sara E. Stewart, Moira D. Parker, Alejandro Amézquita, Tyrone L. Pitt Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Evaluation of anti ‐microbial activities of ZnO, citric acid and a mixture of both against Propionibacterium acnes
ConclusionThe results of our study suggest that ZnO may not only be an anti‐microbial ingredient for the prevention of and treatment of acne. The results of our study suggest that ZnO may be an anti‐microbial ingredient for the prevention of and treatment of acne when mixed with CA. Résumé ObjectifDans cette étude, les activités antimicrobiennes de ZnO de trois tailles différentes de particules, de l'acide citrique (CA), et des mélanges de ZnO et de CA ont été confirmées contre Propionibacterium acnes. MethodesLe ZnO avec la plus petite dimension des particules a montré une activité antimicrobienne relative...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 29, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. Y. Bae, S. N. Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Evaluation of anti‐microbial activities of ZnO, citric acid and a mixture of both against Propionibacterium acnes
ConclusionThe results of our study suggest that ZnO may not only be an anti‐microbial ingredient for the prevention of and treatment of acne. The results of our study suggest that ZnO may be an anti‐microbial ingredient for the prevention of and treatment of acne when mixed with CA. Résumé ObjectifDans cette étude, les activités antimicrobiennes de ZnO de trois tailles différentes de particules, de l'acide citrique (CA), et des mélanges de ZnO et de CA ont été confirmées contre Propionibacterium acnes. MethodesLe ZnO avec la plus petite dimension des particules a montré une activité antimicrobienne relative...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 29, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. Y. Bae, S. N. Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Variation in the activities of late stage filaggrin processing enzymes, calpain ‐1 and bleomycin hydrolase, together with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid levels, corneocyte phenotypes and plasmin activities in non‐sun‐exposed and sun‐exposed facial stratum corneum of different ethnicities
ConclusionVariation in PCA levels has been found for different ethnic groups in this study (AA > BA > C subjects). The values in the AA subjects are surprising as one might expect that the lack of pigmentation, and thereby increased photodamage, might lead to lower levels. Increased BH, but not C‐1 activity, was observed in the AA subjects indicating that BH is associated with PCA production to a greater extent. Surprisingly, corneocyte maturation is still impaired with elevated PCA levels in AA subjects. The higher levels of plasmin and BH activities on the cheeks, especially for AA and C subjects, suggest that th...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 26, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: N. Raj, R. Voegeli, A. V. Rawlings, B. Summers, M. R. Munday, M. E. Lane Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A mild hand cleanser, alkyl ether sulphate supplemented with alkyl ether carboxylic acid and alkyl glucoside, improves eczema on the hand and prevents the growth of Staphylococcus aureus on the skin surface
ConclusionThese results suggest that not only antimicrobial activity but also the mildness, which minimizes cutaneous effects, are important for hand cleansers to prevent the growth of S. aureus. The cleanser formulated with AES, AEC and AG containing IPMP is mild and is effective to promote hand hygiene. Résumé ObjectifSe laver les mains à l'aide de nettoyants avec des matériaux antiseptiques est la méthode la plus populaire pour l'hygiène des mains, ce qui contribue à maintenir la santé par la prévention des intoxications alimentaires et les infections bactériennes. Cependant, le lavage répété des mains te...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 26, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Fukui, T. Morikawa, M. Hirahara, Y. Terada, M. Shimizu, K. Takeuchi, Y. Takagi Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

What is a Caucasian ‘fine’ hair? Comparing instrumental measurements, self‐perceptions and assessments from hair experts
ConclusionsThis study has shown close agreement between sensorial and instrumental findings, and also illustrates how the women participating can subtly and adequately describe their own hair. It is important to note that the words ‘fine hair’ describes a lot more than just physically thin hair fibres. Ageing is an additional factor that clearly impacts certain parameters associated with ‘fine hair’ among the volunteers. Résumé ObjectifDe déterminer les différents facteurs qui gouvernent les termes ‘cheveux fins’ souvent employé par les femmes Caucasiennes. MéthodesTrois approches complémentaires furent...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 26, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Bouabbache, A. Galliano, P. Littaye, M. Leportier, F. Pouradier, E. Gillot, S. Panhard, G. Loussouarn Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Microneedle ‐mediated intradermal delivery of epigallocatechin‐3‐gallate
ConclusionAddition of glutathione in EGCG formulations significantly reduces its photodegradation. Skin microporation with maltose microneedles facilitates the penetration of EGCG across the stratum corneum into the deeper skin layers – viable epidermis and dermis. Résumé ObjectifEpigallocatéchine‐3‐gallate (EGCG) est le flavanol physiologiquement le plus actif et abondant, ce qui représente 50–80% des catéchines du thé vert. C'est un agent anti‐inflammatoire, antioxydant, chimiopréventif et photoprotecteur de la peau. Cependant, sa sensibilité à la lumière et sa faible perméabilité à travers la cou...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 22, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: A. Puri, H. X. Nguyen, A. K. Banga Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Sunscreen Sun Protection Factor claim based on in vivo interlaboratory variability
ConclusionIn this present paper, the authors demonstrated that using only one in vivo SPF value from one laboratory may actually challenge the reliability of the final SPF claim significantly. To reduce the consumer health risk by ensuring the reliability of the SPF claim, an average from at least 3 (ideally 4) different in vivo SPF values should be compulsory.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 15, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Miksa, D. Lutz, C. Guy, E. Delamour Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Analysis of salicylic acid, arbutin and corticosteroids in skin whitening creams available in Pakistan using chromatographic techniques
According to this study, salicylic acid is present in 87.88% skin whitening creams, arbutin in 96.97%, cortisone in 60.60%, hydrocortisone in 48.48%, betamethasone valerate in 15.15% and betamethasone dipropionate present in 12.12% cosmetic creams available in Pakistan. Résumé ContexteUne méthode de chromatographie liquide haute performance en phase inverse simple, nouvelle et efficace a été développée et validée pour la séparation de la plupart des ingrédients populaires dans les crèmes pour blanchir la peau. MethodesPour l'analyse RP‐HPLC C18 une colonne Hibar® 250 mm × 4,6 mm, de 5 µm (Merck Millipore, ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 5, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Aima Shams, Islam Ullah Khan, Haffsah Iqbal Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Purification and characterization of a melanin biodegradation enzyme from Geotrichum sp
ConclusionThese results indicate the potential of MnP purified from Geotrichum sp. as a skin‐lightening agent in the cosmetic industry.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Beom Su Kim, Mohamed Blaghen, Hong‐Sig Hong, Kang‐Min Lee Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The roughness of lip skin is related to the ceramide profile in the stratum corneum
ConclusionThe relationship between lip roughness and the CER profile was clarified for the first time. The results suggest that not only the level of total CERs but also the specific CER species and their carbon numbers affect the maintenance of SC function.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: E. Tamura, J. Ishikawa, A. Naoe, T. Yamamoto Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A fundamental investigation into aspects of the physiology and biochemistry of the stratum corneum in subjects with sensitive skin
ConclusionsDespite the physiological similarities between the two groups of sensitive skin subjects, differences in their biochemistry were clearly evident. Lower levels of PCA, BH and TG activities together with a greater number of smaller and immature corneocytes indicate inferior SC maturation in the capsaicin‐sensitive subjects. The reduced maturation of corneocytes and thinner SC likely contributes to a greater penetration of capsaicin and the associated increased skin sensitivity.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: N Raj, R Voegeli, A V Rawlings, S Doppler, D Imfeld, M R Munday, M E Lane Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Skin Image Retrieval Using Gabor Wavelet Texture Feature
ConclusionWe have developed an effective skin image retrieval method based on Gabor wavelet transform, that it is useful for retrieving different types of images, namely digital colour face images, digital colour skin cancer and skin disease images, and particularly, grayscale skin capacitive contact images. Gabor wavelet transform can also be potentially useful for face recognition (with different orientation and expressions) and skin cancer/disease diagnosis.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Xiang Ou, Wei Pan, Xu Zhang, Perry Xiao Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

New approach for a reliable in vitro SPF method Part II: Practical aspects and implementations
ConclusionOur second paper concludes that the new in vitro SPF method (based on 113 sunscreen products from the Parts I and II) is clearly adaptable for the SPF labelling purpose on any product type because it is non‐invasive, less expensive, more practical and more reliable if performed under strict conditions.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - April 1, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: S. Miksa, D. Lutz, C. Guy, E. Delamour Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A mild hand cleanser, alkyl ether sulfate supplemented with alkyl ether carboxylic acid and alkyl glucoside, improves eczema on the hand and reduces the growth of Staphylococcus aureus on the skin surface
ConclusionThese results suggest that not only antimicrobial activity but also the mildness, which minimizes cutaneous effects, are important for hand cleansers to prevent the growth of S. aureus. The cleanser formulated with AES, AEC and AG containing IPMP is mild and is effective to promote hand hygiene.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - March 30, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Shiho Fukui, Toshiya Morikawa, Mayuko Hirahara, Yukiko Terada, Masaki Shimizu, Katsuhiko Takeuchi, Yutaka Takagi Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

What is a Caucasian “fine” hair? Comparing instrumental measurements, self‐perceptions and assessments from hair experts
ConclusionsThis study has shown close agreement between sensorial and instrumental findings, and also illustrates how the women participating can subtly and adequately describe their own hair. It is important to note that the words “fine hair” describes a lot more than just physically thin hair fibers. Ageing is an additional factor that clearly impacts certain parameters associated with “fine hair” among the volunteers.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - March 29, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: Stéphanie Bouabbache, Anthony Galliano, Paola Littaye, Maud Leportier, Florence Pouradier, Elise Gillot, Ségolène Panhard, Geneviève Loussouarn Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Understanding effects of topical ingredients on electrical measurement of skin hydration
ConclusionsBoth the Corneometer® and Skicon® were influenced to different extents by chemicals other than water and therefore cannot be seen purely as measures of skin ‘hydration’. While there is strong evidence that the devices do correlate with expert assessment of skin dryness the level of water in the skin is only part of the story when it comes to understanding the benefits of topical moisturizing products applied to the skin. An alternative approach would be to consider skin ‘moisturization’ as a property which is influenced by water, salts and other materials such as humectants and emollients, which is mor...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - March 29, 2016 Category: Dermatology Authors: J.M. Crowther Tags: Original Article Source Type: research