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Enzymatically interesterified fats based on mutton tallow and walnut oil suitable for cosmetic emulsions
ConclusionsThe work has demonstrated that interesterification of a mutton tallow and walnut oil blend resulted in new fats with very interesting characteristics of triacylglycerols that are not present in the environment. The results of the present work indicate the possibility of application of fats with the largest quantity of MAGs and DAGs as a fat base of emulsions in the cosmetic industries. The hypothesis assumed in this work of producing additional quantities of MAGs and DAGs (in the process of enzymatic interesterification) responsible for the stability of the system was confirmed. It should be pointed out that the...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 19, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Kowalska, M. Mendrycka, A. Zbikowska, S. Stawarz Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Formulation and evaluation on human skin of a water‐in‐oil emulsion containing Muscat hamburg black grape seed extract
ConclusionThe developed grape‐based cream could be efficiently and safely applied to improve a number of skin conditions (e.g. hyper pigmentation, premature aging, acne).This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 18, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Arfa Sharif, Naveed Akhtar, Muhammad Shoaib Khan, Abder Menaa, V Bouzid, Barkat Ali Khan, Farid Menaa Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Bactericidal activity of ammonia and monoethanolamine on Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Staphylococcus aureus strains of various origins
ConclusionConcentrations higher than or equal to 0.5% (v/v) ammonia or 1% (v/v) monoethanolamine were able to completely inactivate bacterial populations (more than 5 log‐reduction) in just a few days.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 17, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Anthony Pinon, Sandra Decherf, Gaël Malet, Sylvie Cupferman, Michèle Vialette Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Preliminary 1 month stability screening of cosmetic multiple emulsions (W/O/W) prepared using cetyl dimethicone copolyol and Polysorbate 80
ConclusionAs a conclusion of this work, a stable multiple emulsion with 13.6% paraffin oil, 2.4% cetyl dimethicone copolyol and 0.8% polysorbate 80 can be formulated and can be further studied for any active ingredient for cosmetic purposes. Résumé ObjectifL'objectif des travaux en cours est de développer des emulsions W/O/W avec différentes concentrations d'huile de paraffine, d’émulsifiants lipophile (cétyldiméthicone copolyol) et hydrophile (polysorbate 80), et de vérifier leur stabilité à différentes conditions de stockage. MéthodeEnviron 20 formulations (W/O/W) émulsions multiples ont été faites et l...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 16, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: H. Khan, N. Akhtar, T. Mahmood, A. Jameel, S. Mohsin Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Towards an understanding of bacterial metabolites prodigiosin and violacein and their potential for use in commercial sunscreens
ConclusionLe pigments bactériennes prodigiosine et violacéine ont des activités anti‐oxydantes et antimicrobiennes, et ont été en mesure d'augmenter le FPS des crèmes solaires commerciales, ainsi que des extraits des deux espèces végétales testées et ont donc une valeur potentielle comme ingrédients pour un nouveau produit de gamme d’écrans solaires qui utilisent des substances d'origine biologique (en représentant un nouveau paradigme). Nous avons discuté du potentiel biotechnologique de ces métabolites bactériens pour une utilisation dans les crèmes solaires commerciales, et la nécessité des étude...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 16, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: R. K. Suryawanshi, C. D. Patil, H. P. Borase, C. P. Narkhede, A. Stevenson, J. E. Hallsworth, S. V. Patil Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Synthesis of a molecularly imprinted polymer to isolate glucosamine from plant extracts by an ionic‐noncovalent dual approach
ConclusionThe use of the MIP as solid‐phase extraction sorbent was able to extract preferentially glucosamine from structural analogues and ammonium salt. Assays on chicory roots extracts were carried out and the MIP showed good results allowing the transfer methodology at semi‐industrial scale for cosmetic companies. The optimized protocol of extraction of glucosamine allowed using only eco‐friendly solvents, as ethanol, water and acetic acid.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 16, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Nathaly Henry, Patrick Favetta, Raphaël Delépée, Jean‐Marc Seigneuret, Luigi Agrofoglio Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Chemical analysis and risk assessment of prohibited colouring agents in face paint with special regard to CI 15585 (D&C Red No. 9, Pigment Red 53:1)
ConclusionAn analytical strategy to determine colouring agents in face paints was developed and non‐compliance with the European Union (EU) cosmetic products regulation in a considerable number of products was detected. An increased control frequency especially at the points of entry into the EU is recommended.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 13, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Andrea Keck‐Wilhelm, Evamaria Kratz, Gerd Mildau, Maren Ilse, Claudia Schlee, Dirk W. Lachenmeier Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Influence of a multiple emulsion, a liposomal formulation and a microemulsion gel on skin parameters in vivo
ConclusionAll produced vehicles were proven to remain physically stable over the duration of the present study. The used multiple emulsion showed very skin friendly properties by increasing sebum and skin hydration. Likewise, the liposomal pre‐formulation exhibited no negative effects. Contrary, the investigated microemulsion gel seemed to have skin dehydrating and TEWL increasing features. However, the multiple emulsion as well as liposomes were identified to be well tolerated vehicles for skin which might qualify them for the use in cosmetic formulations.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Sou...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 13, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Denise Mahrhauser, Corinna Nagelreiter, Jaroslaw Skipiol, Claudia Valenta Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Temperature Dependence and P/Ti Ratio in Phosphoric Acid Treatment of Titanium Dioxide and Powder Properties
ConclusionPhosphoric acid treatment of titanium dioxide is an effective method to inhibit photocatalytic activity for a white pigment.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 7, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Hiroaki Onoda, Aki Matsukura Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The coordination environment of copper in hair can be altered by treatment products
ConclusionCommercial hair treatment products can have a profound effect on the copper coordination environment in hair, and this must be taken into account in any attempt to use hair as a health marker.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 7, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Niramon Worasith, Bernard A. Goodman Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Determination of fourteen sunscreen agents in cosmetics using high‐performance liquid chromatography
ConclusionThis method was highly optimized in terms of selectivity, reproducibility and efficiency for the detection of 14 compounds. The validation data indicated that the improved method was quite suitable for their quantitative analysis of commercial product samples. Therefore, this method was applied to the determination of 14 compounds in commercial sunscreen cosmetic products. We verified that the amounts of sunscreen ingredients in the five currently sold sunscreens were >0.5% and within the designated limit, which means those could produce the safe and desired sunscreen effects on the skin. The present method co...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 6, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Nae In Chang, Miyoung Yoo, Sanghee Lee Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The effect of personal grooming on self‐perceived body image
ConclusionThese results demonstrate that the attitudinal component of body image is malleable and can be influenced by everyday grooming routines, suggesting such behaviours have psychological benefits for both genders, beyond their basic hygiene function. However there are individual differences in people's susceptibility to these effects, perhaps reflecting variability in self‐esteem.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - November 3, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Jorien Paasschen, Susannah C. Walker, Nicola Phillips, Paul E. Downing, Steven P. Tipper Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Cryptomphalus aspersa mollusc eggs extract promotes migration and prevents cutaneous ageing in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts in vitro
ConclusionIFC‐CAF has regenerative properties and protects against ageing factors being, therefore, a potential therapeutic agent for treating or preventing skin ageing. Résumé Arriere FondLa recherche de substances qui réduisent le vieillissement cutané a augmenté au cours des dernières années. Des études précédentes ont décrit les propriétés régénératrices de la sécrétion du mollusque Cryptomphalus aspersa (C. aspersa) lorsqu'il est appliqué par voie topique. ObjectifNous évaluons les effets in vitro d'un nouveau produit dérivé des oeufs de C. aspersa, IFC‐CAF, sur la prolifération cellulair...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 27, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. Espada, M. Matabuena, N. Salazar, S. Lucena, O. Kourani, E. Carrasco, M. Calvo, C. Rodríguez, E. Reyes, S. González, A. Juarranz Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Anti‐inflammatory and anti‐bacterial properties of tetramethylhexadecenyl succinyl cysteine (TSC): a skin‐protecting cosmetic functional ingredient
ConclusionsTetramethylhexadecenyl succinyl cysteine represents a novel cosmetic functional ingredient that provides a dual modulating benefit of skin protection to individuals by reducing inflammation in keratinocytes, endothelial and mononuclear cell types and S. pyogenes counts. Résumé ContexteLa peau est la première ligne de défense contre l'exposition aux microbes, les insultes, l'environnement physique et chimique. En mobilisant une réponse protectrice, plusieurs types différents de cellules situées dans notre peau sécrètent et/ou répondent à des cytokines pro‐inflammatoires ainsi assurant l'homéostasi...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 22, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. R. Fernandéz, K. Rouzard, M. Voronkov, K. L. Huber, J. B. Stock, M. Stock, J. S. Gordon, E. Pérez Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Nanometre‐scale investigations by atomic force microscopy into the effect of different treatments on the surface structure of hair
ConclusionAtomic force microscopy and the related techniques we have employed in a forensic approach is able to distinguish between different hair care products on the basis of the deposits they leave behind. This opens up the capability of further analysis tools to complement already existing techniques. Résumé ObjectifPour étudier l'effet de différents régimes de lavage sur la surface des cheveux humains à l’échelle du nanomètre ‐ comparable à la taille des dépôts typiques laissés par des produits commerciaux. MethodesMicroscopie à force atomique (AFM) et les techniques connexes. ResultatsOn peut voir d...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 22, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Durkan, N. Wang Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Preliminary one month stability screening of cosmetic multiple emulsions (W/O/W) prepared using cetyl dimethicone copolyol and Polysorbate 80
ConclusionAs a conclusion of this work, a stable multiple emulsion with 13.6% paraffin oil, 2.4% cetyl dimethicone copolyol and 0.8% polysorbate 80 can be formulated and can be further studied for any active ingredient for cosmetic purposes.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 16, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Hira Khan, Akhtar Naveed, Tariq Mahmood, Adnan Jameel, Sabeeh Mohsin Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Analysing the movement of a hair swatch using video and image analysis: A promising technique for exploring the dynamic properties of hair
In conclusion, this method is complementary to the ones used generally to characterize global visual perceptions (color, styling, shine). This dynamic component not only opens doors to new qualitative evaluations, linked with sensorial experts and consumers perceptions, but also to new quantitative parameters. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 9, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Anthony Galliano, Mélanie Lheur, Roberto Santoprete Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Psychological stress has the potential to cause a decline in the epidermal permeability barrier function of the horny layer
ConclusionsThe results indicate the possibility that psychological stress causes a decline in EPBF and deterioration in barrier disruption and recovery. Furthermore, it implies a relationship between psychological stress and the exacerbation or protracted healing of skin disease.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 9, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Seiya Fukuda, Shunsuke Baba, Toshihide Akasaka Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Cellulite: Poor correlation between instrumental methods and photograph evaluation for severity classification
ConclusionCellulite caused impact in quality of life. Poor correlation between objective measures and clinical evaluation was detected. Cellulite severity assessment is a challenge and objective parameters should be optimized for clinical trials.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: JLM Soares, HA Miot, A Sanudo, E Bagatin Tags: Research Communication Source Type: research

Towards an understanding of bacterial metabolites prodigiosin and violacein and their potential for use in commercial sunscreens
ConclusionThe bacterial pigments prodigiosin and violacein have antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, and were able to increase the SPF of commercial sunscreens as well as the extracts of the two plant species tested and so have potential value as ingredients for a new product‐range of (and represent a new paradigm for) sunscreens that utilise substances of biological origin. We discussed the biotechnological potential of these bacterial metabolites for use in commercial sunscreens, and the need for studies of mammalian cells to determine safety.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: In...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Rahul K. Suryawanshi, Chandrashekhar D. Patil, Hemant P. Borase, Chandrakant P. Narkhede, Andrew Stevenson, John E. Hallsworth, Satish V. Patil Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

A study on seasonal variation of skin parameters in Korean males
ConclusionThe skin surface pH, TEWL, sebum content, hydration, elasticity, wrinkles, skin pore, and skin sensitivity vary with seasons and body regions in Korean men.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: E. J. Song, J. A. Lee, J. J. Park, H. J. Kim, N. S. Kim, K. S. Byun, G. S. Choi, T. K. Moon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Enzymatically Interestrified Fats Based On Mutton Tallow And Walnut Oil Suitable For Cosmetic Emulsions
ConclusionsThe work has demonstrated that interesterification of a mutton tallow and walnut oil blend resulted in new fats with very interesting characteristics of triacylglycerols that are not present in the environment. The results of the present work indicate the possibility of application of fats with the largest quantity of MAGs and DAGs as a fat base of emulsions in the cosmetic industries. The hypothesis assumed in this work of producing additional quantities of MAGs and DAGs (in the process of enzymatic interesterification) responsible for the stability of the system was confirmed. It should be pointed out that the...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: M Kowalska, M Mendrycka, A Zbikowska, S Stawarz Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Predictive Microbiology For Cosmetics Based On Physicals, Chemicals And Concentration Parameters
ConclusionFollowing the analysis of the different concentration, a correlation between glycerin and ethanol that directly influence microbiological protection of cosmetics products has been established. Indeed, by controlling ethanol, pH and glycerin, many products may be exempted from the challenge test.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - October 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Senda Ghalleb, Segolene De Vaugelade, Odile Sella, Marc Lavarde, Christine Mielcarek, Anne‐Marie Pense‐Lheritier, Stephane Pirnay Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Improvement of polyphenol properties upon glucosylation in a UV‐induced skin cell ageing model
ConclusionOur results demonstrated that enzymatic glucosylation of CA and EGCG led to an improved or preserved antioxidant activity in a cellular model of UV‐induced skin ageing, despite the decrease in instantaneous antioxidant properties observed for Glc‐CA. Glc‐EGCG is specifically more active on keratinocytes, suggesting a specific targeting. Such glucosylated polyphenols displaying improved physicochemical and biological properties should be better candidates than natural ones for use in food additives and cosmetics. Résumé ObjectifsLes polyphénols sont des molécules ayant un fort pouvoir antioxydant permet...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 29, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: M. Nadim, D. Auriol, N. Lamerant‐FayeL, F. Lefèvre, L. Dubanet, G. Redziniak, C. Kieda, C. Grillon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Cryptomphalus aspersa mollusk eggs extract promotes migration and prevents cutaneous aging in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts in vitro
ConclusionIFC‐CAF has regenerative properties and protects against aging factors being a potential therapeutic agent for treating or preventing skin aging.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 25, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: J. Espada, M. Matabuena, N. Salazar, S. Lucena, O. Kourani, E Carrasco, M Calvo, C Rodríguez, E. Reyes, S. González, A. Juarranz Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Optimization of cosmetic preservation: water activity reduction
ConclusionFabrication process as well as humectants concentration were shown to influence water activity. The hydroxyl group positions as well as the presence of an alkyl group on the glycol carbon chain impacted water binding as suggested by DFT calculation. Reducing aw improved the preservation of a cosmetic cream, inhibiting or slowing down the growth of bacteria and fungi.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 25, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Audrey Kerdudo, Fabien Fontaine‐Vive, Alexandre Dingas, Chrystel Faure, Xavier Fernandez Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Photoprotection in changing times – UV filter efficacy and safety, sensitization processes and regulatory aspects
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 25, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Constanze Stiefel, Wolfgang Schwack Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Anti‐inflammatory and Anti‐Bacterial Properties of Tetramethylhexadecenyl Succinoyl Cysteine (TSC): A Skin Protecting Cosmetic Functional Ingredient
ConclusionsTSC represents a novel cosmetic functional ingredient that provides a dual modulating benefit of skin protection to individuals by reducing inflammation in keratinocytes, endothelial and mononuclear cell types and S. pyogenes counts.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 25, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: José R. Fernandéz, Karl Rouzard, Michael Voronkov, Kristen L. Huber, Jeffry B. Stock, Maxwell Stock, Joel S. Gordon, Eduardo Pérez Tags: Research Communication Source Type: research

Preparation and Characterization of W/O Microemulsion for Removal of Oily Make‐up Cosmetics
ConclusionThese results suggest that the prepared W/O microemulsions can be utilized as cleaning agents for efficient removal of oily make‐up cosmetics.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Eun Jong Kim, Bong Ju Kong, Soon Sik Kwon, Ha Na Jang, Soo Nam Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

From experimental design to functional gene networks: DNA microarray contribution to skin ageing research
Résumé Il ne fait aucun doute que la technologie de puces à ADN a contribué, via l'identification de centaines de gènes, à accroître nos connaissances dans de nombreux processus, incluant le vieillissement. Cependant, intégrer des gènes dans des réseaux fonctionnels, plutôt que de définir des termes décrivant des caractéristiques génériques, reste un défi important. La fonction d'un gène donné qui peut varier selon le contexte et les mécanismes de rétrocontrôle complexifient grandement l'interprétation des données de puces. De plus, il est difficile de déterminer si les modifications d'expression d...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 18, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: P. D. Benech, A. Patatian Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

The physical chemistry of the stratum corneum lipids
This article summarizes the current knowledge of the composition, self‐assembly, and molecular organization of the SC lipids, reviews the evidence connecting these parameters and the barrier properties of human skin, and outlines the immediate issues in the field of SC lipid research. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 17, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Mila Boncheva Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Nanometer‐Scale Investigations By Atomic Force Microscopy Into The Effect Of Different Treatments On The Surface Structure Of Hair
ConclusionAtomic force microscopy and the related techniques we have employed in a forensic approach is able to distinguish between different hair care products on the basis of the deposits they leave behind. This opens up the capability of further analysis tools to complement already existing techniques.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 15, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Durkan, N. Wang Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Physical Characterization and In Vitro Skin Permeation of Solid Lipid Nanoparticles for Transdermal Delivery of Quercetin
ConclusionThe results suggest that QSLN‐2, prepared with a surfactant content of 2%, could be used as useful skin delivery system for transdermal delivery of hydrophobic antioxidants such as quercetin.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 15, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Saet Byeol Han, Soon Sik Kwon, Yoo Min Jeong, Eun Ryeong Yu, Soo Nam Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Editorial
(Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 11, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Karl Lintner, Majella Lane Tags: Editorial Source Type: research

The anti‐inflammatory effect of cherry blossom extract (Prunus yedoensis) used in soothing skincare product
ConclusionCherry blossom extract shows good anti‐inflammatory effect in vitro and in vivo and represents a promising functional ingredient in soothing skincare product by reducing skin inflammation. Résumé ContextePlusieurs chercheurs ont indiqué que les cerisiers en fleurs pourraient fournir des matériaux bioactifs de grande valeur. Cependant, il y avait peu de rapports concernant l'effet anti‐inflammatoire des cerisiers en fleurs. ObjectifLa présente enquête a été réalisée pour étudier l'effet anti‐inflammatoire de l'extrait de fleur de cerisier (CBE), qui a été utilisé comme un ingrédient apaisant ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 4, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Y. Q. Zhang, L. Guan, Z. Y. Zhong, M. Chang, D. K. Zhang, H. Li, W. Lai Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Changes in Chinese hair growth along a full year
ConclusionData confirm that Chinese hairs present characteristics of the most developed and fast growing terminal fibres, as compared to other non‐Asian ethnics. Résumé ObjectifAfin de confirmer l'existence d'un effet de saisonnalité au sein des cycles de croissance et de chute des cheveux chez des sujets Chinois, les différents paramètres de ces cycles sur une même région du vertex, ont été observés chaque mois durant une année entière. Methodesles paramètres de croissance des cheveux de 41 volontaires Chinois (femmes et hommes), non‐alopéciques, ont été déterminés chaque mois au long d'une année e...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - September 3, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Liu, J. Yang, L. Qu, M. Gu, Y. Liu, J. Gao, C. Collaudin, G. Loussouarn Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Characterization of a human epidermis model reconstructed from hair follicle keratinocytes and comparison with two commercially models and native skin
ConclusionORS cell‐based reconstructed epidermis is a valid and reproducible model for human epidermis and it may be used to evaluate the effects of active substances and cosmetic formulations. Résumé ObjectifLes cellules ORS de la gaine épithéliale externe des follicules pileux humains sont une source facilement disponible, non invasive de kératinocytes pour la reconstruction des épidermes. L'objectif de la présente étude est de caractériser un modèle d'épiderme reconstitué réalisé à partir des cellules ORS (modèle dérivé d'ORS), et d'évaluer sa reproductibilité, par rapport à la peau humaine nativ...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 26, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: B. Guiraud, H. Hernandez‐Pigeon, I. Ceruti, S. Mas, Y. Palvadeau, C. Saint‐Martory, N. Castex‐Rizzi, H. Duplan, S. Bessou‐Touya Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Formaldehyde replacement with glyoxylic acid in semipermanent hair straightening: a new and multidisciplinary investigation
ConclusionThis investigation revealed the role played by the electrophilicity of the carbonyl on the straightener agent and of the temperature, closely related to the dehydration process. Raman and IR studies indicated the involvement of imine bonds and the occurrence of a sequence of conformational modifications during the straightening procedure. SEM analyses showed the effectiveness of the treatment at the cuticular level. Résumé ObjectifLe formaldéhyde est un agent défrisant semi‐permanent pour cheveux efficace et populaire, défriser mais les graves conséquences de son utilisation sur la santé de l'homme dues...
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 11, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: C. Boga, P. Taddei, G. Micheletti, F. Ascari, B. Ballarin, M. Morigi, S. Galli Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Improvement of polyphenol properties upon glucosylation in a UV‐induced skin cell aging model
ConclusionOur results demonstrated that enzymatic glucosylation of CA and EGCG led to an improved or preserved antioxidant activity in a cellular model of UV‐induced skin aging, despite the decrease in instantaneous antioxidant properties observed for Glc‐CA. Glc‐EGCG is specifically more active on keratinocytes, suggesting a specific targeting. Such glucosylated polyphenols displaying improved physicochemical and biological properties should be better candidates than natural ones for use in food additives and cosmetics.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: M Nadim, D Auriol, N Lamerant‐FayeL, F Lefèvre, L Dubanet, G Redziniak, C Kieda, C Grillon Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Phytolatex synthesized gold nanoparticles as novel agent to enhance sun protection factor of commercial sunscreens
ConclusionPhytolatex synthesized gold nanoparticle is novel agent to enhance sun protection factor of commercial sunscreens. Gold nanoparticles aggregation in commercial sunscreen was the main factor behind SPF enhancement. Present study showed that gold nanoparticles are potent alternative to traditionally used hazardous titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreen.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Hemant P. Borase, Chandrashekhar D. Patil, Rahul B. Salunkhe, Rahul K. Suryawanshi, Bipinchandra K. Salunke, Satish V. Patil Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Reactivity of cosmetic UV filters towards skin proteins: Model studies with Boc‐lysine, Boc‐Gly‐Phe‐Gly‐Lys‐OH, BSA and gelatin
ConclusionEspecially the UV absorbers BM‐DBM, OCR, and BP‐3, which are seen as common allergens or photoallergens, showed a high reactivity towards the different skin protein models. As the formation of protein adducts is recognized as important key element in the induction of skin sensitization, the results of this study can contribute to a better understanding of the underlying chemical mechanisms of such reactions.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - August 1, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Constanze Stiefel, Wolfgang Schwack Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Enhanced Skin Delivery of Liquiritigenin and Liquiritin‐loaded Liposome‐in‐Hydrogel Complex System
ConclusionLiposome‐in‐hydrogel system can be a potential drug delivery system for topical delivery of antioxidants such as licorice flavonoids to construct anitoxidative skin barrier.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 31, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Su Ji Kim, Soon Sik Kwon, So Ha Jeon, Eun Ryeong Yu, Soo Nam Park Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Exogenous connective tissue growth factor preserves the hair‐inductive ability of human dermal papilla cells
ConclusionLe facteur de croissance du tissu conjonctif exogène peut préserver la capacité inductive innée des cellules de papilles dermiques humaines adultes dans des cultures in vitro, qui est commandée par l'intermédiaire du Wnt, BMP et des voies de signalisation TGF‐ β. Connective tissue growth factor influences human dermal papilla cells' hair inductive ability through several signaling pathways. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 30, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: P. Zhang, S. K. Ravuri, J. Wang, K. G. Marra, R. E. Kling, J. Chai Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Coexistence effect of UVA absorbers to increase their solubility and stability of supersaturation
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 28, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Mayu Endo, Tsubasa Mukawa, Nobumasa Sato, Daisuke Maezawa, Yutaka Ohtsu, Akihiro Kuroda, Misaki Wakabayashi, Kouichi Asakura Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Evaluation of Soy‐Based Surface Active Copolymers as Surfactant Ingredients in Model Shampoo Formulations
ConclusionSBPS‐based formulations meet major requirements of multifunctional shampoos ‐ mild detergency, foaming, good conditioning, and aesthetic appeal, which are comparable to commercially available shampoos.In addition, examination of SBPS/SLS mixtures in model shampoos showed that the presence of the SBPS enables the concentration of SLS to be significantly reduced without sacrificing shampoo performance.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 28, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Andriy Popadyuk, Harjyoti Kalita, Bret J. Chisholm, Andriy Voronov Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

From experimental design to functional gene networks: DNA microarray contribution to skin aging research
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 28, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Philippe D. Benech, Angela Patatian Tags: Review Article Source Type: research

Monthly changes in hair growth parameters of Chinese subjects, observed along a full year
ConclusionData confirm that Chinese hairs present characteristics of the most developed and fast growing terminal fibres, as compared to other non Asian ethnics.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 26, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Chen Liu, Jessica Yang, Lily Qu, Maohui Gu, Yuanyuan Liu, Jun Gao, Catherine Collaudin, Geneviève Loussouarn Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

The anti‐inflammatory effect of cherry blossom extract (Prunus yedoensis) used in soothing skin care product
ConclusionCBE shows good anti‐inflammatory effect in vitro and in vivo, and represents a promising functional ingredient in soothing skin care product by reducing skin inflammation.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 26, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Y.Q. Zhang, L. Guan, Z.Y. Zhong, M. Chang, D.K. Zhang, H. Li, W. Lai Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Characterisation of a human epidermis model reconstructed from hair follicle keratinocytes and comparison with two commercially models and native skin
ConclusionORS cell‐based reconstructed epidermis is a valid and reproducible model for human epidermis and it may be used to evaluate the effects of active substances and cosmetic formulations.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 26, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Béatrice Guiraud, Hélène Hernandez‐Pigeon, Isabelle Ceruti, Sandy Mas, Yannick Palvadeau, Christine Saint‐Martory, Nathalie Castex‐Rizzi, Hélène Duplan, Sandrine Bessou‐Touya Tags: Original Article Source Type: research

Factors Affecting Formulation Characteristics and Stability of Ascorbic Acid in Water‐in‐Oil Creams
ConclusionAmong all the formulations, the creams containing castor oil as emollient and glycerin as humectant showed minimum degradation as compared to the creams containing other excipients. FTIR studies indicated that there is no significant interaction between AA and CT in physical mixtures.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science)
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science - July 26, 2014 Category: Dermatology Authors: Muhammad Ali Sheraz, Marium Fatima Khan, Sofia Ahmed, Sadia Hafeez Kazi, Saif ur Rehman Khattak, Iqbal Ahmad Tags: Original Article Source Type: research